Puglia is for Eating

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In late June, Ed and I spent a delicious week in Puglia – the “heel” of Italy’s “boot”. We rented a car to meander around ancient olive groves and marvel and unobstructed ocean vistas. And, Puglia delighted us with colorful orecchiette pasta, fresh seafood, abundant olive oil, and spectacular gelati.

Gourmet Delights

Orecchiette – literally “small ears” – is a shape of Puglian pasta dating to around 1500. Our orchiette came with a variety of sauces, including a Puglian specialty – Orecchiette con le cime di rapa – handmade orecchiette with turnip tops

Even the most lowly hole-in-the-wall cafe offered the freshest cuisine and homemade flair. We especially enjoyed the mussels and clam linguine in a plaza in Gallipoli.

And an 8-course farm-to-table at Masseria Il Frantoio in Ostuni under twinkling lights was divine. An English-speaking sommelier guided us through the delicious wine pairings.

Not to be outdone, the pasta and calamari at a seaside restaurant in Castrignano del Capo was terrific.

And, the tiramisu topped it all off on many occasions!

Oceans Beckon

Less touristy than its northern neighbors, Puglia is nestled between the Ionian Sea and the Adriatic sea. We were able to swim in both bodies of water on back to back days. The water was warm and the waves were undulating and mild. Nice!

The drive along the Salento peninsula was breathtaking. We drove from Otranto to the most southern tip of Italy – Santa Maria de Leuca. This scenic winding road flirts with the edge of tall limestone cliffs, dropping off into the frothing Adriatic sea and offering some of amazing views. In June, we were early for the throngs of tourists, so traffic was light.

Home of the Trulli

Alberobello, a highly-visited town in Puglia, hosts over 1500 conical structures, known as trulli. Dating from as early as the mid-14th century, they feature conical roofs built over whitewashed mortarless buildings.

The trulli were designed without mortar because they were supposed to be temporary farm shelters. According to experts, “These iconic rural dwellings began appearing as early as the 14th century, and their popularity originated because of a 15th century decree that made urban settlers pay taxes to the crown under feudal rule. If the king’s inspectors came collecting, the villagers could easily demolish these inexpensive buildings into a pile of stones and hide in the forest, and then rebuild them once they’d gone.” We enjoyed walking around the current trulli, and witnessed a local wedding at the only trulli church in the world.

Gourmet Farm Says

Puglia is dotted with masserias — rural farms converted to boutique bed and breakfasts. The masserias are located outside of villages throughout the region. We stayed in two of these – in Ostuni and Otranto, and both were delightful. In Ostuni, we marveled at the orchard with thousand year old olive trees. We learned that Puglia produces 40 percent of Italy’s olive oil.

Charming Villages

Puglia has many small towns nestled among the olive groves. One of our favorites was the hilltop town of Ostuni, known as the “White City”. The whitewashed city beckons visitors from afar.

And the ubiquitous Aperol Spritz is very popular!

Visiting the Cave Dwellings

We spent a magical day and night in Matera – one of the oldest continually occupied settlements in Europe.

Cave dwellers settled here in the Paleolithic Age and residents lived in these caves (in cohabitation with their pigs and goats) up until the late 1950’s. They built an amazingly complex labyrinth of caves on top of each other, nestled along the cliffs.

We visited this cave that had been transformed into a shop.

It was definitely more hospitable than this cave in the early 1900’s, when residents lived in the same cave as their animals.

Today, the caves have morphed into boutique hotels, shops and residences. The town gained popularity when Mel Gibson filmed The Passion of The Christ in 2004, since the ambiance resembles ancient Jerusalem. And, popularity increased when James Bond performed automotive theatrics in Matera’s main plaza in No Time To Die in 2021.

We thoroughly enjoyed our stay in Matera and appreciated the guided tour provided by a local resident. (Matera is technically not in Puglia, but it is in a neighboring state, Basilicata.)

One Minor Wrinkle

During our journey, we had a flat tire in Otranto. Luckily we were near the curb and were able to drive the car to safety. We had noticed a female traffic officer nearby and we showed her google translate’s version of “flat tire” in Italian. She knew just what to do. She called “Bilo” and later told us (in Italian) that he would arrive in treinta minuti (30 min). So, we chilled near the car, and Bilo arrived shortly thereafter.

He put on a spare and we followed him to his shop. The correct tire was not in stock, but we gave him a deposit for a new one and returned the next day, where he put on the tire. The rental company never knew anything about this. And, luckily we were able to tour the countryside using the spare, so our itinerary was not compromised. And, since none of the parties were bilingual (including us), google translate came to the rescue!

Arrivederci Puglia!

Our week in Puglia was relaxing and lovely. We were sorry to leave and hope to return soon to sample even more gourmet delicacies and visit more charming villages. Next time – without a flat tire!

A Glimpse of Modern India

A Visit to Goa

After Pune, we proceeded with Rahul and his wife, Shiny, to Goa, a lively beach town on the coast.

The Portuguese ruled Goa for more than 450 years. This history can be seen in its crumbling forts, baroque architecture, whitewashed churches and cuisine. We learned that the Portuguese left Goa as recently as the 1960s.

We especially liked the Basilica of Bom Jesus, dating from the 16th century.

Sunset on the beach was breathtaking. It seemed like the entire town was outside and enjoying walking along the sand.

In Goa we sampled the local Konki cuisine.

And we enjoyed a nightclub with live entertainment. We selected ‘These Boots are Made for Walkin’ for the singer, and our friends were surprised that we knew all the words!

Goa was relaxing and so much fun! We loved the Portuguese influence and we are so grateful for Rahul and Shiny’s warm hospitality!

Onward to Mumbai

Our final destination was Mumbai, where we stayed in the famous Taj Mahal Palace hotel. (This was the site of the serious bomb attack in 2008.)

The hotel was gorgeous. We enjoyed a tour of the facilities led by a man who had worked there for over 40 years as the personal butler for the CEO of the hotel. He told many colorful stories about famous guests and parties. And, although he was off that day, he knew everyone who was working during the 2008 attack. A memorial fountain pays tribute to those who lost their lives.

But not everything in Mumbai was modern. We also visited the world’s largest outdoor laundry (which uses the same hand washing methodology from ages past.)

And we visited Elephanta Island, with caves from mid-5th to 6th century AD. The stone carvings in the temples in the caves were well preserved and intricate.

We also took a walking tour of the Dharavi slum, which was founded in 1884. Our guide was a resident of the slum, and our tour fees supported education and training for children of the slum.

Photos are not allowed on these tours (to protect the privacy and dignity of the residents), but the tour company provided a link to a few images.

So, thank you India! We had a fabulous month – so much variety and interesting sights to see. We especially enjoyed getting to know the people and culture. Even though there are 1.4 billion people here, we were not overwhelmed by crowds of humanity. Instead, we found peace and quiet and warm hospitality. We’re grateful for the opportunity to visit this fascinating place!

Tracking Tigers and Leopards

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On our trip to India in April, we spent two nights near Ranthambore National Park, home to 80+ Bengal tigers. We boarded a safari jeep early in the morning to track the tigers. It was chilly, and we were happy for our hats and coffee-to-go.

Ranthambore National Park is divided into zones. The guides and drivers participate in a lottery to determine where they can travel daily so areas do not become overcrowded. We were lucky to visit Zone 1, where tigers were spotted the previous day.

Encounter With a Tiger

We cruised through the morning dew and were happy to hear the chatter of monkeys – this is the “warning call” for the community of leopards, sloth bears, sambar deer, spotted deer, wild boars, crocodiles, and a wide variety of bird species who live in the park. This chatter means, “Lookout … tiger nearby!” Our jeep proceeded to the area of the monkey chatter. We waited quietly, and then this magnificent tiger appeared:

She picked up a dead spotted deer carcass to determine if it was high enough quality for her cubs.

She decided, “Yes – it’s fresh, and my cubs will love it”, and trotted off through the forest towards her cubs.

Other jeep drivers had also heard the monkey call and headed towards this spot. So we were not alone during this encounter with the tiger. Instead, we were joined by BBC cameramen and tourists on photo safaris.

During other drives in Ranthambore Park, we spotted additional tigers, but most were at a distance, and some, like this cub, were well camouflaged in the bush.

Other Animals Populate the Park

In the park we saw a variety of other wildlife, including this spotted deer nursing her baby.

This sambar deer was alert, always listening for predators.

The monkeys provided a constant chatter overhead.

And the birds were varied and beautiful.

We loved going out in the jeep and admiring the vast variety of vegetation and scenery, but it was also good to get home to the lodge and enjoy the sunset.

Leopards Lurk Over the Village

Later in our trip, we stopped in Narlai, a traditional village where leopards live in the stone caves outside of town. We took a jeep tour at sunset and saw this magnificent creature checking out the town below. Apparently, their diet consists of small mammals like dogs, spotted deer, and baby calves. They usually don’t bother humans, but we didn’t get too close to find out!

We stayed at Rawla Narlai, a regal hunting lodge, where British royalty spent the night on journeys between Jaipur and Udaipur. The arrival at this lodge was a surprise. We were driving through a typical village with local commerce and cows lying around the street. As we turned the corner, we found a gate with a doorman dressed in white with a red turban. He opened the gate, and this majestic lodge was right there – nestled behind the gate and right in the town. From the swimming pool at the lodge, we could see the local temple that was carved into the nearby mountain.

Villagers Add Local Color

The four-legged creatures were not the only amazing characters we saw on this journey. We toured Narlai with one of the men who worked at the hotel. He took us to the temple on the mountain and serenaded us with a drum.

Other residents were also colorfully dressed in local attire. Many men donned traditional turbans.

While women wore intricate nose rings and beautiful saris.

The children attended a local school and were delighted to have visitors, especially when we contributed to their library fund.

Visiting the countryside allowed us to appreciate the traditional lifestyle still carried on by residents. Working in the field looked exhausting!

We decided you need a strong back, excellent hip flexors, and good balance to prepare meals in this community.

Visiting the countryside was a treat, as the lifestyle is much more traditional than our experience in some of the larger cities in Rajasthan.

Our next stop is modern India. Stay tuned.

Royal Rajasthan – From “Pur to Pur”

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Ed and I recently spent a month exploring the regal areas of Rajasthan in Northern India.

We traveled along the well-trodden route from Jaipur to Udaipur to Jodhpur … our “pur to pur” tour. In ancient Sanskrit, the “pur” suffix denotes town or city, so Jaipur is Jai’s town, paying homage to Maharaja Jai Singh II, who established the city in 1727. Rao Jodha founded Jodhpur in 1459, and so on. We also traveled to Jaisalmer, a fortress town established in the 12th century by King Rawal Jaisal. (The suffix ‘mer’ denotes that it was once a lake.) Each area offered its charm and beauty.

Since the Rajasthan royalty cooperated with the Mughals and the British over time, palaces, temples and forts were not destroyed (like in many other parts of India). Many still stand in good condition after 600+ years.

Visiting Jaipur

One of our favorite destinations was the Amber Fort in Jaipur, where we donned traditional turbans and rode up to the fort on an elephant.

We later learned that elephants don’t like this work. The government has new laws (encouraged by PETA) limiting the number of people they carry at a time and the number of trips to the fort per day.

If Ed needed to wear a turban daily, he would have to add at least 15 minutes to his morning routine, as tying a turban is quite an intricate process! The fabric was eight meters long.

Jaipur became known as “The Pink City” when, in 1876, the Maharaja painted most buildings pink—the color of hospitality—in preparation for a visit by Britain’s Queen Victoria. We admired many of the pink structures, including the Hawa Mahal. Women used to peer out of the many small lookout holes in this building to see what was happening in the street.

A few minutes after we took this photo in the middle of a crowded night market, Ed realized he did not have his wallet. We surveyed the sidewalk and rushed back to this location. Unfortunately, we did not find it. We assumed either we left it in the hotel or he dropped it.

We didn’t find the wallet at the hotel either, but when Jan looked at her phone, she found this message titled “Regarding your Purse”:

A shopkeeper had spotted a suspicious-looking person picking something off the street. When he went to investigate, he realized it was a wallet and took possession. He found the neighborhood policeman and turned over the wallet, but first, he found our business card in the wallet and sent a message saying he had my wallet. We quickly summoned our driver and returned to his shop. He wouldn’t accept a tip. Honest people can be found everywhere.

Blue Jodhpur

The Mehrangarh fort beckoned from all parts of Jodhpur. Originally built in 1459, the complex spans 1,200 acres.

Night views from rooftop restaurants also focus on the fort.

Jodhpur is known as the “Blue City” because many buildings in the oldest areas are painted blue.

This theme was artfully carried out at the remodel of our hotel, the Raas Jodhpur, which was once an ancient palace.

Golden Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer is called the “Golden City” because the yellow sandstone used in the majority of architecture has a yellowish-golden tinge. Unlike most other forts in India, Jaisalmer Fort is not just a tourist attraction. It houses shops, hotels and ancient havelis (homes) where generations continue to live.

Jaisalmer was a major junction on the Silk Road. Riding camels is still a tradition in the area, and we were happy to take a ride at sunset.

Hospitality Galore

Many palaces and estates have been converted into luxury 5-star hotels. The level of Indian hospitality on our journey was incredible. Each room was different—many had balconies, patios, views, and/or sitting rooms. The staff was incredibly gracious and welcoming. Our view of the sunset from the hotel roof in Udaipur was lovely.

Happy Holi!

We were happy to be in Udaipur for Holi, the celebration of Spring. The night before, the town was festive, with many locals (and tourists) dancing to traditional Indian music.

On Holi day, donning white outfits, everyone in town threw paint on each other to celebrate flowers, spring and new life! We started the day in pristine outfits.

Our clothes became increasingly colorful as the day wore on. We originally thought that people would throw dried paint at each other. But no, it was much more personal. Instead of throwing, many of our new friends would smear wet (or dried) paint on your face, hair or clothing.

To top it off, local children delighted in spraying each passerby with their water guns! This added a wet layer on everyone’s clothing and helped blend (or smear) the paint.

By the end of the day, we were covered in paint and ready for the shower! (I had a Zoom for Stanford call at 4 pm that day and needed to ensure I was presentable. Even though my hair still had a slight green cast, I was able to pull this off!)

We heard that there is a traditional marijuana-laced drink named “bhang” that is part of many people’s Holi tradition. We didn’t try it, but we noticed everyone was in a very good mood! Perhaps next time.

Touring the Taj Mahal

En route to Rajasthan, we visited the Taj Mahal. Although it looks pure white from a distance, the vast quantity of inlaid jewels that grace the structure is breathtaking. We learned that it took 20,000 people 22 years to build this magnificent building. We visited at sunset and sunrise the next morning.

It was truly a “bucket list” moment!

Smooth Sailing

Due to the patience and skill of our driver, Milap, we were lucky to enjoy a smooth trip throughout Rajasthan. With the crazy traffic and honking around India, Jan often remarked, “I’m so glad Ed is not driving!” This is an understatement!

Our trip to Rajasthan was planned by Ajay Sharma, a Delhi local who’s planned trips for friends in Sun Valley. He was an excellent choice. If you’re interested, you can reach hin at holikurry@gmail.com or follow him on Instagram. We’re happy to provide more details.

https://www.instagram.com/indiawithajay

This is the first of three installments of our memories of India. Watch this space!

Ecuador – Then and Now

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Ed and I had not been to Ecuador since 1979, right after we completed Stanford Business School. Our “bible” guidebook at the time was The South American Handbook — one hardback book for all of South America.

We traveled with backpacks and a limited budget.

Last year, 44 years later, we returned with online reservations and experienced a step-up in luxury. (We could almost call it “South America with a Sherpa,” but not quite.)

Some Things Stay the Same

In Otavalo, the indigenous market still sells authentic handcrafts and traditional weaving. The green and gold wall hanging echoing Escher from 1979 graces our bedroom wall in Sun Valley. We could have purchased the brown and red one this year, as the design is the same. (Not sure about the price!)

The indigenous women still wear their traditional attire.

Jan could have bought a new “Otavalo hat,” … but she still has this one from 1979. She wore it recently for a Halloween costume when she, Ed and Sydney were detectives!

The indigenous music is still the same, and performers are very versatile.

An infinite variety of ceviche is available.

Tile roofs adorn many buildings. (Ed still takes pictures of them!)

And the churches and plazas are still the hub of city life.

Changes Since 1979

Devil’s Nose

In 1979, we rode “third class” on the roof of the Devil’s Nose steam train in Riobamba. This narrow-gauge railway snaked its way up the Andes with many twists and turns.

We learned that the roof seating was abolished after a low-hanging electrical wire decapitated two Japanese tourists. Rumor has it that they were standing to take photos. Yikes! Luckily, Ed stayed seated in 1979, as shown here. (We purchased this sweater in the Otavalo market, and Jan had a matching one. We were traveling in June and didn’t remember it would be winter in South America, so we wore these sweaters 24/7. And … nice mustache!

Although the Devil’s Nose train is still touted in many guidebooks as a major tourist attraction, the train is now defunct. A road has been built to replace the train for locals, and it was financially non-viable to keep the train running only for tourists. This is quite a loss, as the journey was breathtaking (and touted as one of the scariest in the world). Apparently, you can now visit the area by hiking or mountain biking.

Market Changes

There has been increased regulation for street merchants. In 1979, you could buy a barbecued pig head on the street. (Note paparazzi Ed behind the woman in the hat.)

Now, the veggies are sometimes wrapped in $1 plastic packages, and the markets are covered.

The US Dollar became the currency for Ecuador in January 2000. Although there are benefits, tying their economy to the US limits Ecuador’s flexibility in monetary policy.

In 1979, the market was in the main square in Otavalo, but now it has moved.

Today, the market includes many artisans who make handcrafted items.

Shoeshine boys no longer prowl the streets of Quito like they did in 1979.

Quito was much smaller then. Now, it has expanded to the surrounding hills.

Subway Fever

The new Quito subway opened in late 2023 and is a point of pride for the city. It is even touted as one of the 52 Places to Visit in 2024 by the New York Times! (photo credit: NYT)

Street Art

During our current trip,we noticed an abundance of street art—most of which celebrated local heritage and culture. We don’t remember this from before.

Roses Galore

The Ecuadorian rose industry was tiny in 1979. 35 years ago, there was a huge investment in rose agriculture, and now Ecuador supplies a large percentage of the world’s roses. Between Quito and Otavalo, massive greenhouses dot the landscape.

Compared to roses grown in Holland, Colombia or Africa, roses from Ecuador have larger buds and blooms. They are reported to last longer because they are grown at high altitudes and receive 12 hours of sunlight per day.

Rose farming is very scientific. Roses are picked before 10 a.m. By evening, they’re on cargo planes for Amsterdam, Shanghai, Miami, and Moscow, among other locations. The residents of each country have their preferences—the Russians like longer-stemmed red roses, while the Chinese like bright colors, including blue and purple.

An ingenious “transportation system” moves the roses across the road and above the cars in bunches. This minimizes human handling.

Locals can purchase the “reject” roses at a low price – three dozen for $5.

Panama Hats

Although Panama Hats have been a staple of Ecuadorian commerce since the 1600s, the industry now boasts tours of the factories in Cuenca and worldwide shipping. Panama hats have always been made in Ecuador. They got their name when construction workers building the Panama Canal wore Ecuadorian Hats for sun protection. Teddy Roosevelt made them famous.

The hats are still made using traditional methods. Pricing depends on the quality of the materials and the tightness of the weave.

Workers use a variety of forms to turn the woven hats into various shapes and sizes.

Current Panama hat pricing ranges from $30 to $3,000. (Apparently, J-Lo has one of the most expensive ones!) The factory boasts that it has many celebrities as customers.

We also couldn’t resist becoming customers since we were fascinated by the manufacturing process. We got a custom fitting from the company’s owner, representing the fifth generation of the Ortega family.

Celebrating the Equator

Previously, it was harder to discover where exactly the equator ran near Quito. Now, there is not one but two museums celebrating the Equator. At the Indian Museum, Jan stood with one foot in the Northern Hemisphere and one in the Southern Hemisphere.

We even “assumed the position” on either side of the equator.

The tour showed how water swirls as it drains in different directions on each side of the equator, a phenomenon known as the “Coriolis effect.” We learned that French and Spanish explorers mapped the equator for ten years starting in 1736. These cylinders are replicas of some of the equipment used for scientific experiments at that time.

Dealing With Institutions

Ecuador’s infrastructure has evolved greatly over this period. On each of our visits, we had unique experiences with major Ecuadorian institutions.

The Police Station

In 1979, Jan was robbed while traveling on a bus from Otavalo to Quito. (!) The thief took her passport, plane ticket, and money. We reported this to the Police, but Jan could not point out the pickpocketer when she pursued a wall of photos of mustached male thieves at the station. To keep our trip going, we had to navigate the US Embassy, the Brazilian consulate, and the Pan Am ticket bureau to get replacements for all our documents.

This was Jan’s best blouse, which was used for passport pictures and dealing with the embassy.

For the next ten years until 1989, Jan was ‘selected’ to go through the ’blue line’–the line for people whose passports were issued in countries associated with smuggling– at customs when entering the US from any foreign country.

Guest Medical Services

This time, we had the chance to deal with the Ecuadorian health industry. Ed contracted a serious cough, and we asked the hotel for help. They called a doctor … and for the next 24 hours, we had in-hotel medical care, complete with IV therapy, an EKG, a chest x-ray, three different doctors, and a 24-hour nurse.

Fortunately, the IV treatment helped a great deal. Within 24 hours, Ed felt much better, and we were able to enjoy a room service dinner for two and continue our journey.

Luckily, we had travel insurance, and we hope to get full reimbursement for these medical expenses.

A Personal Touch!

And our favorite difference from 1979 was the chance to visit a friend from Business School. Ed’s first-year roommate Peter Gilmore has lived in Guayaquil for many years. He helped us plan our trip and showed us around the city. We enjoyed a lovely crab dinner with Peter and his wife.

44 years have passed since our first visit. We looked a lot younger in 1979, but we are grateful to be still able to travel as “Partners in Adventure.”

So, “hats off!” to Ecuador. Although we were a bit nervous about traveling to the country due to its political unrest, we were delighted with our experience. We are thankful that we still have many of the artifacts we purchased in 1979, including baskets, several figurines, the wall hanging, and, of course, the Otavalo hat!

Mashpi Lodge – An Oasis in the Clouds

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Now we know why it’s called a cloud forest – lots of clouds, rain, and trees! At 3,117 feet above sea level, Mashpi Lodge is nestled in the heart of a 2,500-acre private reserve, 70 percent of which is primary forest. The owner, Roque Sevilla, is an Ecuadorian entrepreneur, environmentalist, and former mayor of Quito. His idea was to make a bubble of comfort in the middle of the jungle. And succeed he did!

During our four-day stay at Mashpi Lodge in December, we were provided waterproof boots and raincoats, which were very useful for tromping through the mud. It rained every day, often with little warning.

We're wearing boots and ponchos to hike in the rain

Birds Abound!

Birds love the cloud forest, and the Lodge has prepared a guide to the most common bird species that can be seen there. We had fun tracking them down and were happy to spot a Broad-billed motmot and Flame-faced tanagers as they darted from tree to tree and sometimes snacked on bananas placed on branches by the naturalists.

Many other types of tanagers live in the forest, including the Glistening-green tanager, Golden tanager, and Rufous-throated tanager.

We especially loved the 17 species of hummingbirds that are unafraid of humans. Since they need to eat every 20 minutes, they appreciated the handout from Jan! (We learned that Ecuador is home to over 132 species of hummingbirds!)

Jan enjoyed playing with her new camera – a Nikon P950, a super-zoom that offers focal lengths of 24mm to 2000mm. She loved the chance to zoom in and capture the action. This was especially helpful for the birds.

A Myriad of Other Creatures

Butterflies and other wildlife also thrive in the forest.

The naturalists knew how to coax the spiders out of their holes, find camouflaged insects on branches and bring out all types of creepy crawlers.

And Many Exotic Plants

Mashpi is also a botanist’s paradise! So many colorful plants adorn the forest.

Views From Above the Trees

The lodge has built several transportation systems to allow guests to view the birds that thrive in the tree crowns, which are often hundreds feet off the ground. A “Dragon Fly” chair system transports four guests at a time.

And an innovative “sky bike” allows you to pedal on top of the trees. We appreciated this custom service! These innovative forest transportation systems were designed especially for the lodge. It sure beats ziplines!

If, for some reason, a tourist got tired of pedaling across the trees, a guide could pull the sky bike back to the tower by pedaling a safety bike positioned at each end. This was quite ingenious.

Hiking Amidst the Forest

We hiked to a waterfall but opted not to hike through the river since it was very slippery. (We left that activity to the teenagers at the Lodge.)

Our guide, Jonathan, was an expert in identifying creatures and plants and always approached everything with a smile.

A hike in the rain to a special viewing platform offered a chance to see even more exotic birds and butterflies.

At the viewing platform, this weasel was very interested in the fresh bananas the guides put out for the birds. He knew how to climb tree branches and get all the good stuff. In fact, he’s licking his chops!

Speaking of “licking one’s chops,” we had no idea that the Lodge’s meals would be so gourmet. Every course was plated with care – including various items of tableware that complemented the food and customized silverware per course. (Need a fish fork in the cloud forest, anyone?)

We were sad to leave Mashpi Lodge but knew that other adventures await! After Mashpi, we returned to Quito and were off to the Galapagos Islands.

The Evolving Galapagos Islands

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In December, we spent seven days exploring the Galapagos Islands on the Isabella II yacht, cruising in pristine waters and visiting islands with unique habitats.

Life Among the Fish

Our favorite activity was deep-water snorkeling. We donned wetsuits, masks, snorkels, and fins and jumped off the zodiac to explore the underwater reefs.

Every day, Luis, our guide — who must be part fish! — would free dive down to the bottom for two minutes to point out sea life that is only found surrounding that particular island, including curious green sea turtles.

A family of penguins joined us in the water.

As we had never snorkeled with sea lions before, watching them play in the ocean as we floated nearby was a special treat.

The schools of fish were some of the largest we’d ever seen. They live harmoniously with the Galapagos shark.

Exploring the Islands

Twice a day, we hopped on a zodiac to ride from the yacht to the islands.

We marveled at the Galapagos Giant Tortoises.

And witnessed a Pacific Green Turtle couple mating on the beach. They often remain in this position for several hours!

We were impressed by the Marine Iguana and the Land Iguana, both unique to these islands.

This marine iguana is often called the Christmas Tree Iguana.

The Blue Footed Booby lives on several of the islands and is excellent at diving for fish in the ocean. They are ubiquitous crowd-pleasers!

Boobies have forward-pointing, stereoscopic vision.

The Magnificent Male Frigate bird inflates a red balloon-like pouch to attract females during mating season.

During hikes on the islands, the naturalists pointed out these endemic species, noting,”This is my office! Preserving these species is my passion”. We learned how various species adapt to the environment and evolve to create new species.

On the shore, we enjoyed watching this Galapagos Sea Lion crawl on the rocks.

Penguins waddled nearby and appeared to be having a conversation.

Learning About the Species

Onboard, Jan finished reading The Beak of the Finch, a captivating account of the 30-year research by Princeton professors Peter and Rosemary Grant. They studied the finches on Daphne Major Island and documented how new species of finches were created before their eyes.

Tourists typically do not visit Daphne Major island, as the landing only happens at certain times and involves jumping from the zodiac onto some precarious rocks covered by bird poop.

It’s right behind us at sunset from a neighboring island:

During our hikes, we saw many of the 17 species of finches plus many types of Mockingbirds. We loved it when the naturalist ‘chirped’ like a mockingbird (or played the bird call on his iPhone), and the Mockingbirds flew up close and personal to the group.

The birds and wildlife on the Galapagos Islands are not afraid of humans. Instead they are either curious, and come up to us, or completely nonchalant about our presence.

This Mockingbird decided to stay in the tree.

The sea lions were also calm and did not mind our presence.

They even didn’t mind when an iguana was nearby.

Capturing the Moments

The Galapagos is a photographer’s paradise; our cameras were our friends!

The sunsets were captivating.

And these flamingos almost looked like a two-headed bird.

What a wonderful week!

The first evening, we bonded with four other travelers who happened to sit at our table. The six of us became fast friends, and each evening, we shared our experiences and enjoyed reflecting on the beauty of the area.

We loved our trip to the Galapagos Islands and are distressed to learn of the extreme unrest in Ecuador over the last month. Hopefully, this will settle down, and if you can visit the Galapagos, we think you’ll also love it!

Tombs, Temples, and Tourists

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Our two-week visit to Egypt in April took us from the hectic traffic of Cairo to ancient sites along the Nile to a mellow beach resort on the Dead Sea. The perfect weather and an infinite variety of scenery enchanted us.

Traveling in the footsteps of Kings, Queens, and a myriad of gods and goddesses was breathtaking. We were constantly amazed by the engineering skills, artistic qualities, and advanced building techniques exhibited by ancient Egyptians.

Prepared for the Afterlife

In Luxor, we walked down the steep staircase into the tomb of Queen Nefertari–wife of Ramses II–and felt it was freshly painted–even though it was 3,200 years old. Colors leapt off the wall. Vivid images depicting her life and mummification greeted us from every corner.

Between 3,000 and 3,500 years ago, the Kings and Queens of Egypt built elaborate tombs underground to preserve their bodies and store items for the afterlife. These tombs can be found in enormous valleys around Luxor.

On the surface, they appear as piles of dirt.

The stories of their lives come to life underground. Many pictures show offerings to the gods.

Others show mummification and animals.

The tomb of Seti vibrated with color and images. According to one guidebook, “There are so many that you could spend days in the tomb and still notice new details.” Archeologists are still discovering new tombs and underground communities.

Temples Grace the Banks of The Nile

We took a three-night Nile cruise on a traditional dahabiya, a wooden boat with 12 passengers and four crew members. We sailed “downriver” from Aswan to Luxor–which was confusing since we were traveling north–but it was against the current, so it’s called “downriver.”

Our boatmates were all compatible, and our guide, Abdula, was knowledgeable and an excellent storyteller.

Sand Has Helped Preservation

We learned that many of the temples had been covered in sand for centuries, so many of the lower elements were well preserved. This temple at Esna looked like this in 1789. Note the height of the columns.

But now, after excavation, the columns have revealed their true height. In fact, the temple was in a “pit” in the middle of the town.

Workers were in the process of cleaning the ceiling (practically with a toothbrush). They removed black soot and revealed an ornate ceiling.

A Crash Course on Ancient Gods

We were introduced to the major Egyptian gods in all the temples and tombs. Many tombs featured the god Ra– the god of the sun.

We were fans of the jackal-headed god of mummification, Anubis, and in this painting in Nefertari’s tomb, he looks like he’s smiling (for a job well done!)

The temples of Abu Simbel were built in 1244 BCE to honor Ramses II and his wife, Queen Nefertari.

These temples were moved––piece by piece–in 1968 as they would have been flooded in their original location along the Nile by the building of the Aswan High Dam. It took almost five years, involved about 3,000 workers and cost–in the 1960s–about $42 million. Quite the feat!

Crocodiles

We learned that there used to be crocodiles in the Nile, but they now only live in the upper section of Lake Nassar. One of our boatmates wanted to make sure of this before we took a dip in the Nile! The crocodile god is well preserved at the Kom Ombo Temple, which was split down the middle to honor the two deities: the crocodile god Sobek and the falcon god Horus.

Also, in Kom Ombo, we saw mummified crocodiles from 3,000 years ago!

Pyramids

In Giza, the three main pyramids were visible from the deck of our AirBnB. So, as we munched on our home-cooked breakfast, we looked out in awe. This was one of the best room views we’ve had in our travels. We arrived on the first night of Ramadan, and after sunset, the street buzzed with energy.

While the pyramids appear perfectly formed and symmetrical from a distance, they really are quite jagged and uneven as you approach them. Each stone is enormous.

The pyramids of Giza, Memphis and Saqqara highlight a visit to Cairo. Standing near the oldest pyramid in the world, Saqqara, we were humbled. Built in 2630 BCE, this “step pyramid” was the first attempt at building a pyramid – the techniques evolved over time!

Jan crouched and climbed down to the burial area underneath a nearby pyramid. The workers must have developed back pain building this passageway since it was very low. Other visitors noted that the passageway below the great pyramid of Giza is even more claustrophobic.

Built with approximately 2.3 million bricks (and no glue or mortar), the great pyramid of Giza rises from the earth with symmetry and grace, at least from a distance! The guides claimed that paid artisans instead of slaves built this. It was built during the period 2550 to 2490 BCE.

All Aboard the Camels

We rode on camels named Bob Marley and Cassanova to get from the Pyramids Panoramic Viewpoint to the Sphinx. The camel boy Khalid was quite adept at silly cell phone photos.

As we loaded up to ride the camels, we were quite surprised to run into a good friend from Ketchum.

Yes, it is a small world!

“Tombs” of a Different Type

We ventured off the beaten tourist path to the Valley of The Whales. We witnessed fossilized whale bones – from 37 to 41 million years ago. Recently discovered, these 400+ fossils provide scientists with accurate evolutionary records of how four-legged, land-dwelling mammals transformed into relatives of whales who lived in the sea. Fascinating.

On the way back to Cairo, our car had a flat tire in the middle of the desert. We learned that our driver’s tire wrench was the wrong size (!), and although he had a spare tire, he didn’t have a jack. So, we had to wait a while for another car to stop and help us.

The other driver was very helpful and had the proper equipment. Since we were going to the airport for our flight to Aswan, our driver used his “Formula 1” driving skills to maneuver through the incredible Cairo traffic to get us to our plane on time. With constant lane-switching, horn honking, and total avoidance of lane lines, this traffic reminded us of driving in Lagos, Nigeria. Not for the faint-hearted! We made it to the airport with time to spare. We even had a cappuccino while we waited for the plane.

Egypt is a Popular Destination

As compared with Oman, Egypt is definitely on the tourist radar. Although we tried to visit sites early or late in the day, there were buses with tourists from around the world at most locations. Many guides carried flags; the guests had headsets providing English, Spanish, German, Chinese, or French commentary. We often had to jostle between the crowds to avoid losing one another.

Like us, many people had delayed previous trips from 2020 due to Covid. Egypt suffered during the lockdown, but now it’s on the rise and welcomes guests from everywhere.

Taking the Plunge in the Red Sea

After our two-week holiday of intense touring and temple-ing (?), we took a three-day break in Dahab, a laid-back beach resort at the tip of the Sinai Peninsula near Sharm el Shiekh. Interestingly, the most common tourists in Dahab are Israelis, as it is only a six-hour drive from Tel Aviv. This resort is just across the Gulf of Aqaba from Saudi Arabia.

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Snorkeling revealed beautiful coral and diverse schools of fish. The water was warm, and the visibility was stunning. This was a different type of temple — under the water!

We snorkeled in Blue Hole, Egypt, one of the world’s five most famous blue holes. It is majestic from the water, boasts a total depth of 94 m (300 feet) and is on the “bucket list” for snorkelers and free divers. It is close to shore and looks impressive, even from land. This map showed us our snorkeling route.

Ancient Icons and Manuscripts Wrap up Our Trip

On our last day, we drove to Mt Sinai and visited the Monastery of St Catherine, a Greek Orthodox sanctuary. Built in the 6th century, this is one of the oldest continuously used monasteries in the world.

The icon museum held beautiful art from the 6th through 13th centuries, and we were blown away by the paintings that almost looked contemporary. Who knew these masterpieces had been preserved in this remote location?

We paid tribute to the location of the burning bush, where God spoke to Moses. This is a site revered by Christians, Jews, and Muslims.

Our guide, Solomon, was from a local Bedouin village where his family has lived for generations. He noted that St Catherine’s had survived intact for all these years because it garnered religious respect from many conquering entities over the centuries. Unfortunately, the Egyptian government tourist agency is developing a huge tourist resort just down the valley from the Monastery, which ruins the view and sits between the traditional Beduin community and the Monastery.

Abundance of Sites

We now understand how archeologists and Egypt scholars can spend lifetimes uncovering hidden treasures in the sand. Our two-week trip barely dented the surface, but these highlights were incredible. Walking among history dating back thousands of years was a very moving experience that we recommend to all.

When we returned to SF, we were amused that the 4/3 Time Magazine issue featured the Giza Pyramids on the cover, with the article “The World’s Greatest Places.”

We must agree!

Note: Apologies for the late submission of this post. Since we returned from Egypt, we have switched our California base from San Francisco to Santa Barbara. Moving is always an adventure.

Oman by 4×4

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From the smooth highway pavement to winding paths on rocky cliffs, our two-week road trip through Oman was filled with delightful surprises. We rented a Toyota “Fortuner” 4WD at the airport and drove on a circular route through the country. At times, the “off-roads” were challenging.

Off Road Magic

On the bumpy road towards Wadi Tiwi, a local stuck his head out the window of his car and yelled, “4 wheel now!” We heeded his advice and were glad we did. The slope was very steep, and the road around the boulders was impossibly narrow and twisty. We joked, “Good thing this is the way in … hopefully there’s another road for the way out!” Not! Luckily there was not much traffic, and all drivers were courteous, as everyone recognized the narrow nature of the road.

The road to Jebel Shams, the highest mountain in Oman, was described as: “Not for nervous or inexperienced drivers.” That is an understatement, to be sure.

Ed drove slowly and carefully, and the Fortuner had high clearance and avoided the many boulders and rocks. (Jan had to hold her tongue, as any “driving tips” were not welcome–or Ed would say, “not necessary!”)

Balcony Walk

The mountain drive was worth it, as the views from Jebel Shams were incredible.

Often called the “Omani Grand Canyon,” this area offers a rim trail or “Balcony Walk.” It’s an old trail once used by goats and shepherds.

We hiked the 7-mile round trip Balcony Walk to an abandoned village. Over the 3.5-mile area, there were guard rails on about 20 feet of trail.

On all the other parts, we had to rely on careful footing. Often the trail disappeared, and we had to scamper over the rocks, looking for the next trail marker. On the way out, we didn’t realize we were descending, so the return was more challenging than we had expected.

Luckily we returned to the trailhead before it started to rain at about 2 pm. We learned that other hikers got stuck out there – soaking wet and more likely to slip on the slick surface.

Making New Friends

Everywhere we went, we were impressed with the warmth and hospitality of the Omani people. People constantly offered us food and Omani coffee. We only saw one other American couple during our entire two-week tour, and the locals were surprised that we were from the USA. We received many smiles and curious glances.

Wanna Buy a Goat?

The Friday morning Goat market in Nizwa is a colorful and noisy affair. The night before, we scoped out the empty arena where the market would take place the next day.

On Friday at 7 am, the place was abuzz with goats bleating and men haggling. For some, it was an opportunity to get together with friends and exchange stories.

In this traditional market, the sellers “parade” their goats around the arena while buyers observe the goats.

If interested, a buyer can wave the goat herder over, and check out the goat – by looking at its teeth (to determine age and health) and feeling the udders – to determine whether the goat is pregnant. Buyers see a pregnant goat as a two-for-one deal. Once a deal is cut, the cash is transferred, and the goat gets tied up somewhere so the buyer can load it in his truck or car trunk and take it home. Once the parade of goats started, the action moved quite quickly.

Jan met one of the goat buyers, Samir, as he completed his transaction.

He purchased this beauty for 32 Rial, which is $82.

After chatting briefly, Samir told Jan, “I would love to have you visit me at my farm in Quriyat.” We discovered we would drive by Quriyat on the way back to Muscat, so we said, “ok!” We exchanged WhatsApp numbers and parted ways.

We contacted Samir and arranged a visit. Finding the farm was challenging, as Google maps couldn’t direct us. Instead, we used a dropped pin on WhatsApp and made our way to a narrow driveway. We had found the right place!

Samir gave us a tour of the farm, and we saw the goat in her new surroundings. (She has to be quarantined for 10 days to make sure she has no disease.)

Samir also has camels and cows on his farm. This baby camel was 5 days old.

We were surprised when Samir said, “I hope you can stay for 3 or 4 days! Here is your private suite. My cook is ready to cook for you, and the beach is nearby.” We were appreciative of this offer, but said we only planned to stop by for an hour-or-so and say hello. (As a small gift of appreciation, we wanted to bring him something American, so we brought him a goodie bag of Oreos and Chips Ahoy cookies. He said his grandchildren would be fans.) Next time we may accept this type of hospitality, as it would have been fascinating.

Wading in the Wadi’s

Wadi’s are natural springs that dot the landscape. Over many centuries, these wadis have been developed with falajs, or innovative irrigation troughs designed for neighbors to share water from the wadi. We hiked along these falajs to access the main pools of the wadis.

At Wadi Tiwi, a local friend Josef guided us along the falajs and helped us make our way to the central pools.

A bit further up the rocky road, we met another new friend, Mohammed, who skillfully guided us toward a waterfall and additional pools. Since there were no signs or marked paths, we were glad for the local assistance.

Less adventurous travelers can opt for Wadi Bin Khalid … (we called this “Wadi Light”) as it boasts a very short paved path from the parking lot, pay toilets, and a snack bar where tourists can have a buffet lunch. We opted to swim in this Wadi, as there were changing rooms, and it looked like there might even be a lifeguard!

Swimming in traditional Omani waters is a conservative affair, as there are guidelines for tourists:

Braving the Bimmah Sinkhole

Local legend says that this gigantic hole in the earth was made by a crashing meteor. The clear waters beckoned at 50 meters by 70 meters, and Jan had to jump in!

We learned ‘it’s all about the framing’ when it comes to some tourist recommendations. Although we found the stairway down to the sinkhole to be a “feature,” as it had a handrail–a rare sight on many cobblestone stairways–the guidebook was not so positive. It read:

“The sinkhole – formerly one of the coast’s most magical beauty spots – has now been utterly defaced in the name of tourism, with an ugly stone wall … and the steps … which has reduced the spot to a level of suburban naff.”

The officials wanted us to recognize that we were responsible for the risks involved.

We were amused to find two women conducting market research at the entrance. They were probing visitors on what could make this site more attractive to visitors. We suggested that “Sink Hole” might not be the most inviting site name. They weren’t familiar with the snarky text of the guidebook.

Forts Abound

Many of the cities hosted large forts. Some were originally built by the Portuguese in the 1700s; others were built by various Sultans over the centuries.

All were very interesting and offered expansive views from the lookout towers.

One of the unique features of the Jarbin Fort (from 1670) was some hidden passageways known as “murder holes” where the soldiers could pour boiling hot date juice on intruders as they tried to access the interior of the fort. This would have been quite the deterrent!

Fortunately, the murder holes are now empty.

A Night in the Desert

We found a professional 4×4 driver to guide us over the sand to our desert camp. He was an expert at “dune bashing” and drove us successfully to our camp.

His tires were deflated to accommodate the sand.

The sunset over the desert was breathtaking.

More 4×4 in Musandam

We traveled to Khasab in northern Oman (in an area that is not contiguous with the rest of the country) and took a 4×4 ride up the mountains with a professional driver, Harim. The road was bumpy and steep, but Jan was more relaxed with Harim at the wheel (instead of Ed!)

We also took a dhow (traditional Omani boat) cruise among the fjords. This area is often called the “Norway of Oman.” The dramatic cliffs–called “khors”–soared high above the water, and we enjoyed this relaxing cruise, lounging on pillows that graced the boat’s central area. The boat captain knew how to invite the local dolphin pods to swim to the surface and race the boat. They put on quite a show.

Thank you, Sultan Qaboos

The modernization of Oman is credited to Sultan Qaboos, who reigned from 1970 to his death in 2020.

He is beloved by all; his photo is everywhere; and many Omani landmarks bear his name. The Grand Mosque in Muscat is an excellent example of his legacy. As of the largest mosques in the Middle East, the main hall can hold 20,000 people.

Modern Oman

Unlike many authoritarian leaders, Sultan Qaboos used the revenues generated by oil production since its first oil export in 1967 to modernize the country’s infrastructure. While this post has focused on our off-road experiences, we must emphasize that the limited-access highways of Oman are fantastic, with smooth pavement and clear signage. Frankly, Oman’s highways put many roads in the Bay Area to shame. Similarly, an expansive electrical grid and 5G mobile communication reach every corner of the country. Every child has access to education, including boarding schools for those in rural areas. We visited the Museum of People and Places in Muscat–a small museum that shows family life in Oman just 50 years before oil export began. The progress toward modernization that has occurred in the last 50 years is nothing short of startling.

Farewell Oman!

Our two weeks in Oman were filled with new experiences and adventures. We were impressed with the country’s safety, warmth, and hospitality. We enjoyed meeting new friends, tasting the local food, and traveling the country independently. Although Google Maps sometimes got confused–the “lady” couldn’t read Arabic, so she would say, “Turn at the ….”–we navigated successfully and could always make a U-turn if necessary.

Amazing Antarctica

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Kayaking among whales, penguins, and seabirds in Antarctica was magical. Over several beautiful days, we paddled in awe as pods of Humpback whales fed on abundant krill less than 50 yards away.

Our kayaking group consisted of 10 guests plus two guides. The guests paddled in two-person kayaks; one guide led the way in a solo kayak; the other guide stayed close by in a Zodiac.

Whale Feeding Frenzy

We could paddle very close to magnificent icebergs and glaciers while whales fed nearby.

The whales feed on krill during their migration from the equator. We learned that Southern Hemisphere humpbacks travel from Antarctica to the equator to breed. Northern Hemisphere whales travel from the Arctic to the equator, but they never cross paths because each reaches the equator in their winter.

Bubble-net Feeding

On several occasions, we paddled close to groups of whales who were bubble-net feeding. This is a cooperative feeding method, where the senior whale instructs the others to form a circle where they trap small fish and krill in a “net” of bubbles. According to Wikipedia, “one whale will sound a feeding call, at which point all whales simultaneously swim upwards with mouths open to feed on the trapped fish.” Then, they all blow bubbles and rise out of the water at the same time, creating a very dramatic effect. When our guide noted that a bubble net was being created, she yelled loudly, “back paddle, back paddle,” and we all backed up our kayaks to avoid the crashing whales and waves created by their activities. We learned that it is the senior females in the pod who instruct the junior members on how and when to feed like this. (You go, girls!)

Penguins Abound

In addition to the whales, we also paddled near many penguin rookeries. Both the Chinstrap and the Chintoo penguins call Antarctica their home.

Penguins are very comfortable around kayakers. They check us out from the shore and swim right up to the boats.

They travel on “penguin roads” up and down the mountain to plunge into the water, find fish, and clean their feathers. Often they slide down the hills on their rears.

Antarctic Seabirds

We also saw Antarctic Shags, which have the same coloring as penguins but have long necks and can fly. They mostly live in harmony with the penguins but sometimes steal from their neighbors.

This Snowy Sheathbill–or as affectionately known, a “shit eater”–landed on our kayak, looking for food. He didn’t find anything on our kayak and returned to land … to eat penguin poop!

Sheathbills eat krill, like almost all creatures in Antarctica, but they’re not built to go into the water. Sheathbills fly nonstop from South America to Antarctica as they do not have webbed feet and can not land on water. It’s incredible how this bird has adapted to life on the White Continent.

Kayaking Was a Blast

Our gang of 10 kayakers bonded over this near-sacred experience. We learned the “man overboard” drill but never had to use it. Everyone became proficient at getting in and out of the kayak, transitioning to the Zodiac and safely returning to the ship as well as backpaddling to get away from bubble-nets.

Our kayaking guides, Ewan and Sophie, were experts in Antarctic kayaking, having taken a 14-day self-supported trip through the glaciers while making the film ICEolation which is available on Prime Video.

We grew quite fond of our dry suits and kayak skirts and were sad when we had to return them to the ship.

On-Land Adventure

On the Magellan Explorer ship, we sailed with 60 other travelers–and 60 crew members– to cruise along the icy waters, land ashore in Zodiacs, and hike to some dramatic peaks for 360-degree vistas.

We experienced a wide range of Antarctic weather – from hail that erupted during our hike during a shore visit to brilliant sunshine that danced off the dramatic icebergs.

Hail started soon after this picture was taken.

Every day we participated in a shore landing and climbed to a peak for 360-degree views.

Antarctic Air Travel

Instead of spending two days crossing Drake’s Passage by sea, our Antarctica21 expedition flew over the passage in two hours. Antarctica21 charters special planes piloted by Antarctic Airways, experts in Antarctic flight. They are designed to land safely on the short landing strip on King George Island. Since the window for a safe flight can be narrow, we waited all day for our flight to be scheduled, and in the afternoon, we learned that our flight would leave at 9:30 pm. Check out the weather! There was almost no darkness in the early-summer night.

Although we thought it was ridiculous when the guides told us to “wear your waterproof pants and boots on the plane,” we were glad we did.

At 11:30 pm, we landed on the strip and were whisked away to the shore where the Zodiacs awaited.

At midnight, we were trained on how to don our life vests and to sit safely in the Zodiacs. It was still quite bright outside!

Then, we boarded the Zodiacs and zipped through the icy water to board the ship that waited offshore. Once everyone was aboard, we participated in safety drills and learned about the ship’s emergency procedures. By 2 am, we went to bed, and the ship moved to our first landing spot. The next day the guides let us know that this type of “midnight express” was highly unusual, and they noted that all of the guests performed admirably and were in excellent spirits. We were thinking, “hmmm… I wonder if it’s going to be like this every day?” Luckily, the rest of the trip went smoothly.

Antarctica Activities

We loved our companions on the ship. There was a certain ‘like-mindedness’ among the travelers. Most had traveled widely, and Antarctica was a ‘bucket list’ item. Many were happy to land on their 7th continent.

A few hardy souls, including Jan, participated in the ‘polar plunge,’ where we jumped into the frigid waters from the ship’s landing dock. We were tethered to the dock, and luckily two strong men pulled us back in quickly.

One afternoon, our captain heard about a pod of pilot whales in the area. He skillfully maneuvered towards them and then stopped in their vicinity. The whales were playing in the sea – and seemed very curious about our ship. They swam underneath the ship and poked their heads out of the water on both sides. The experienced crew came out from the bridge to share this magical sight.

One evening, the crew prepared an outdoor barbeque, and we enjoyed hamburgers, steak, chicken, corn on the cob and all the fixings on the back deck where the boat sheltered us from the wind.

When it was time to wrap up our trip, we boarded the Zodiacs and zipped back to the landing strip. The next group of travelers arrived on this plane, and we flew back to Chile after a quick turnaround.

The serenity and beauty of the incredible White Continent profoundly touched us. After reading several harrowing accounts of the early explorers in the late 1800s and early 1900s, we feel privileged to have been able to experience Antarctica’s magnificence in absolute comfort and safety. We hope that the area is preserved in its pristine beauty for many future generations of whales, penguins, and visitors.

(As our long-time readers know, we rarely recommend specific hotels, restaurants or tour operators, but in this case, we must endorse Antartica21, the operator of our trip. The boat was almost new and very well-designed. With 60 passengers and 60 crew–composed of exploration leaders, hospitality and ship navigation teams–the Magellan Explorer was fast and agile, quickly moving from place to place so we could experience multiple locations each day. Every aspect was extremely well organized and of the highest quality, with a deep focus on safety. We strongly recommend the kayaking option as the guides are nurturing, the physical exertion is minimal, and the dry suits are quite warm. Also, note that some of the photos in this post were supplied by the photographer and kayak guides on our ship. )

We wish everyone a very happy 2023! We are delighted to be back “on the move” and hope to “assume the position” in other exotic locations in the coming year.