Ecuador – Then and Now

Ed and I had not been to Ecuador since 1979, right after we completed Stanford Business School. Our “bible” guidebook at the time was The South American Handbook — one hardback book for all of South America.

We traveled with backpacks and a limited budget. 

Last year, 44 years later, we returned with online reservations and experienced a step-up in luxury. (We could almost call it “South America with a Sherpa,” but not quite.)

Some Things Stay the Same

In Otavalo, the indigenous market still sells authentic handcrafts and traditional weaving. The green and gold wall hanging echoing Escher from 1979 graces our bedroom wall in Sun Valley. We could have purchased the brown and red one this year, as the design is the same. (Not sure about the price!)

The indigenous women still wear their traditional attire.

Jan could have bought a new “Otavalo hat,” … but she still has this one from 1979. She wore it recently for a Halloween costume when she, Ed and Sydney were detectives!

The indigenous music is still the same, and performers are very versatile.

An infinite variety of ceviche is available.

Tile roofs adorn many buildings. (Ed still takes pictures of them!)

And the churches and plazas are still the hub of city life.

Changes Since 1979

Devil’s Nose

In 1979, we rode “third class” on the roof of the Devil’s Nose steam train in Riobamba. This narrow-gauge railway snaked its way up the Andes with many twists and turns. 

We learned that the roof seating was abolished after a low-hanging electrical wire decapitated two Japanese tourists. Rumor has it that they were standing to take photos. Yikes! Luckily, Ed stayed seated in 1979, as shown here. (We purchased this sweater in the Otavalo market, and Jan had a matching one. We were traveling in June and didn’t remember it would be winter in South America, so we wore these sweaters 24/7. And … nice mustache!

Although the Devil’s Nose train is still touted in many guidebooks as a major tourist attraction, the train is now defunct. A road has been built to replace the train for locals, and it was financially non-viable to keep the train running only for tourists. This is quite a loss, as the journey was breathtaking (and touted as one of the scariest in the world). Apparently, you can now visit the area by hiking or mountain biking.

Market Changes

There has been increased regulation for street merchants. In 1979, you could buy a barbecued pig head on the street. (Note paparazzi Ed behind the woman in the hat.)

Now, the veggies are sometimes wrapped in $1 plastic packages, and the markets are covered. 

The US Dollar became the currency for Ecuador in January 2000. Although there are benefits, tying their economy to the US limits Ecuador’s flexibility in monetary policy.

In 1979, the market was in the main square in Otavalo, but now it has moved.

Today, the market includes many artisans who make handcrafted items.

Shoeshine boys no longer prowl the streets of Quito like they did in 1979. 

Quito was much smaller then. Now, it has expanded to the surrounding hills.

Subway Fever

The new Quito subway opened in late 2023 and is a point of pride for the city. It is even touted as one of the 52 Places to Visit in 2024 by the New York Times! (photo credit: NYT)

Street Art

During our current trip,we noticed an abundance of street art—most of which celebrated local heritage and culture. We don’t remember this from before.

Roses Galore

The Ecuadorian rose industry was tiny in 1979. 35 years ago, there was a huge investment in rose agriculture, and now Ecuador supplies a large percentage of the world’s roses. Between Quito and Otavalo, massive greenhouses dot the landscape.

Compared to roses grown in Holland, Colombia or Africa, roses from Ecuador have larger buds and blooms. They are reported to last longer because they are grown at high altitudes and receive 12 hours of sunlight per day. 

Rose farming is very scientific. Roses are picked before 10 a.m. By evening, they’re on cargo planes for Amsterdam, Shanghai, Miami, and Moscow, among other locations. The residents of each country have their preferences—the Russians like longer-stemmed red roses, while the Chinese like bright colors, including blue and purple.

An ingenious “transportation system” moves the roses across the road and above the cars in bunches. This minimizes human handling.

Locals can purchase the “reject” roses at a low price – three dozen for $5.

Panama Hats

Although Panama Hats have been a staple of Ecuadorian commerce since the 1600s, the industry now boasts tours of the factories in Cuenca and worldwide shipping. Panama hats have always been made in Ecuador. They got their name when construction workers building the Panama Canal wore Ecuadorian Hats for sun protection. Teddy Roosevelt made them famous.

The hats are still made using traditional methods. Pricing depends on the quality of the materials and the tightness of the weave.

Workers use a variety of forms to turn the woven hats into various shapes and sizes.

Current Panama hat pricing ranges from $30 to $3,000. (Apparently, J-Lo has one of the most expensive ones!) The factory boasts that it has many celebrities as customers.

We also couldn’t resist becoming customers since we were fascinated by the manufacturing process. We got a custom fitting from the company’s owner, representing the fifth generation of the Ortega family.

Celebrating the Equator

Previously, it was harder to discover where exactly the equator ran near Quito. Now, there is not one but two museums celebrating the Equator. At the Indian Museum, Jan stood with one foot in the Northern Hemisphere and one in the Southern Hemisphere.

We even “assumed the position” on either side of the equator.

The tour showed how water swirls as it drains in different directions on each side of the equator, a phenomenon known as the “Coriolis effect.” We learned that French and Spanish explorers mapped the equator for ten years starting in 1736. These cylinders are replicas of some of the equipment used for scientific experiments at that time.

Dealing With Institutions

Ecuador’s infrastructure has evolved greatly over this period. On each of our visits, we had unique experiences with major Ecuadorian institutions. 

The Police Station

In 1979, Jan was robbed while traveling on a bus from Otavalo to Quito. (!) The thief took her passport, plane ticket, and money. We reported this to the Police, but Jan could not point out the pickpocketer when she pursued a wall of photos of mustached male thieves at the station. To keep our trip going, we had to navigate the US Embassy, the Brazilian consulate, and the Pan Am ticket bureau to get replacements for all our documents.

This was Jan’s best blouse, which was used for passport pictures and dealing with the embassy.

For the next ten years until 1989, Jan was ‘selected’ to go through the ’blue line’–the line for people whose passports were issued in countries associated with smuggling– at customs when entering the US from any foreign country.

Guest Medical Services

This time, we had the chance to deal with the Ecuadorian health industry. Ed contracted a serious cough, and we asked the hotel for help. They called a doctor … and for the next 24 hours, we had in-hotel medical care, complete with IV therapy, an EKG, a chest x-ray, three different doctors, and a 24-hour nurse.

Fortunately, the IV treatment helped a great deal. Within 24 hours, Ed felt much better, and we were able to enjoy a room service dinner for two and continue our journey.

Luckily, we had travel insurance, and we hope to get full reimbursement for these medical expenses.

A Personal Touch!

And our favorite difference from 1979 was the chance to visit a friend from Business School. Ed’s first-year roommate Peter Gilmore has lived in Guayaquil for many years. He helped us plan our trip and showed us around the city. We enjoyed a lovely crab dinner with Peter and his wife.

44 years have passed since our first visit. We looked a lot younger in 1979, but we are grateful to be still able to travel as “Partners in Adventure.”

So, “hats off!” to Ecuador. Although we were a bit nervous about traveling to the country due to its political unrest, we were delighted with our experience. We are thankful that we still have many of the artifacts we purchased in 1979, including baskets, several figurines, the wall hanging, and, of course, the Otavalo hat!

Mashpi Lodge – An Oasis in the Clouds

Now we know why it’s called a cloud forest – lots of clouds, rain, and trees!  At 3,117 feet above sea level, Mashpi Lodge is nestled in the heart of a 2,500-acre private reserve, 70 percent of which is primary forest. The owner, Roque Sevilla, is an Ecuadorian entrepreneur, environmentalist, and former mayor of Quito. His idea was to make a bubble of comfort in the middle of the jungle. And succeed he did!

During our four-day stay at Mashpi Lodge in December, we were provided waterproof boots and raincoats, which were very useful for tromping through the mud. It rained every day, often with little warning.

We're wearing boots and ponchos to hike in the rain

Birds Abound!

Birds love the cloud forest, and the Lodge has prepared a guide to the most common bird species that can be seen there. We had fun tracking them down and were happy to spot a Broad-billed motmot and Flame-faced tanagers as they darted from tree to tree and sometimes snacked on bananas placed on branches by the naturalists.

Many other types of tanagers live in the forest, including the Glistening-green tanager, Golden tanager, and Rufous-throated tanager.

We especially loved the 17 species of hummingbirds that are unafraid of humans. Since they need to eat every 20 minutes, they appreciated the handout from Jan! (We learned that Ecuador is home to over 132 species of hummingbirds!)

Jan enjoyed playing with her new camera – a Nikon P950, a super-zoom that offers focal lengths of 24mm to 2000mm. She loved the chance to zoom in and capture the action. This was especially helpful for the birds.

A Myriad of Other Creatures

Butterflies and other wildlife also thrive in the forest.

The naturalists knew how to coax the spiders out of their holes, find camouflaged insects on branches and bring out all types of creepy crawlers. 

And Many Exotic Plants

Mashpi is also a botanist’s paradise! So many colorful plants adorn the forest.

Views From Above the Trees

The lodge has built several transportation systems to allow guests to view the birds that thrive in the tree crowns, which are often hundreds feet off the ground. A “Dragon Fly” chair system transports four guests at a time. 

And an innovative “sky bike” allows you to pedal on top of the trees. We appreciated this custom service!  These innovative forest transportation systems were designed especially for the lodge. It sure beats ziplines!

If, for some reason, a tourist got tired of pedaling across the trees, a guide could pull the sky bike back to the tower by pedaling a safety bike positioned at each end. This was quite ingenious.

Hiking Amidst the Forest

We hiked to a waterfall but opted not to hike through the river since it was very slippery. (We left that activity to the teenagers at the Lodge.)

Our guide, Jonathan, was an expert in identifying creatures and plants and always approached everything with a smile.

A hike in the rain to a special viewing platform offered a chance to see even more exotic birds and butterflies.

At the viewing platform, this weasel was very interested in the fresh bananas the guides put out for the birds. He knew how to climb tree branches and get all the good stuff. In fact, he’s licking his chops!

Speaking of “licking one’s chops,” we had no idea that the Lodge’s meals would be so gourmet. Every course was plated with care – including various items of tableware that complemented the food and customized silverware per course. (Need a fish fork in the cloud forest, anyone?)

We were sad to leave Mashpi Lodge but knew that other adventures await! After Mashpi, we returned to Quito and were off to the Galapagos Islands.

The Evolving Galapagos Islands

In December, we spent seven days exploring the Galapagos Islands on the Isabella II yacht, cruising in pristine waters and visiting islands with unique habitats.

Ed is framing our yacht in this pose.

Life Among the Fish

Our favorite activity was deep-water snorkeling. We donned wetsuits, masks, snorkels, and fins and jumped off the zodiac to explore the underwater reefs.

Every day, Luis, our guide — who must be part fish! — would free dive down to the bottom for two minutes to point out sea life that is only found surrounding that particular island, including curious green sea turtles.

A family of penguins joined us in the water.

As we had never snorkeled with sea lions before, watching them play in the ocean as we floated nearby was a special treat.

The schools of fish were some of the largest we’d ever seen. They live harmoniously with the Galapagos shark.

Exploring the Islands

Twice a day, we hopped on a zodiac to ride from the yacht to the islands.

We marveled at the Galapagos Giant Tortoises.

And witnessed a Pacific Green Turtle couple mating on the beach. They often remain in this position for several hours!

We were impressed by the Marine Iguana and the Land Iguana, both unique to these islands.

This marine iguana is often called the Christmas Tree Iguana.

The Blue Footed Booby lives on several of the islands and is excellent at diving for fish in the ocean. They are ubiquitous crowd-pleasers!

The Magnificent Male Frigate bird inflates a red balloon-like pouch to attract females during mating season.

During hikes on the islands, the naturalists pointed out these endemic species, noting,”This is my office! Preserving these species is my passion”. We learned how various species adapt to the environment and evolve to create new species.

On the shore, we enjoyed watching this Galapagos Sea Lion crawl on the rocks.

Penguins waddled nearby and appeared to be having a conversation.

Learning About the Species

Onboard, Jan finished reading The Beak of the Finch, a captivating account of the 30-year research by Princeton professors Peter and Rosemary Grant. They studied the finches on Daphne Major Island and documented how new species of finches were created before their eyes. 

Tourists typically do not visit Daphne Major island, as the landing only happens at certain times and involves jumping from the zodiac onto some precarious rocks covered by bird poop.

It’s right behind us at sunset from a neighboring island:

During our hikes, we saw many of the 17 species of finches plus many types of Mockingbirds. We loved it when the naturalist ‘chirped’ like a mockingbird (or played the bird call on his iPhone), and the Mockingbirds flew up close and personal to the group.

The birds and wildlife on the Galapagos Islands are not afraid of humans. Instead they are either curious, and come up to us, or completely nonchalant about our presence.

This Mockingbird decided to stay in the tree.

  The sea lions were also calm and did not mind our presence.

They even didn’t mind when an iguana was nearby.

Capturing the Moments

The Galapagos is a photographer’s paradise; our cameras were our friends!

The sunsets were captivating.

And these flamingos almost looked like a two-headed bird.

What a wonderful week!

The first evening, we bonded with four other travelers who happened to sit at our table. The six of us became fast friends, and each evening, we shared our experiences and enjoyed reflecting on the beauty of the area.

We loved our trip to the Galapagos Islands and are distressed to learn of the extreme unrest in Ecuador over the last month. Hopefully, this will settle down, and if you can visit the Galapagos, we think you’ll also love it! 

Tombs, Temples, and Tourists 

Our two-week visit to Egypt in April took us from the hectic traffic of Cairo to ancient sites along the Nile to a mellow beach resort on the Dead Sea. The perfect weather and an infinite variety of scenery enchanted us.

Traveling in the footsteps of Kings, Queens, and a myriad of gods and goddesses was breathtaking. We were constantly amazed by the engineering skills, artistic qualities, and advanced building techniques exhibited by ancient Egyptians. 

Prepared for the Afterlife

In Luxor, we walked down the steep staircase into the tomb of Queen Nefertari–wife of Ramses II–and felt it was freshly painted–even though it was 3,200 years old. Colors leapt off the wall. Vivid images depicting her life and mummification greeted us from every corner.

Between 3,000 and 3,500 years ago, the Kings and Queens of Egypt built elaborate tombs underground to preserve their bodies and store items for the afterlife. These tombs can be found in enormous valleys around Luxor. 

On the surface, they appear as piles of dirt.

The stories of their lives come to life underground. Many pictures show offerings to the gods.

Others show mummification and animals.

The tomb of Seti vibrated with color and images. According to one guidebook, “There are so many that you could spend days in the tomb and still notice new details.” Archeologists are still discovering new tombs and underground communities. 

Temples Grace the Banks of The Nile

We took a three-night Nile cruise on a traditional dahabiya, a wooden boat with 12 passengers and four crew members. We sailed “downriver” from Aswan to Luxor–which was confusing since we were traveling north–but it was against the current, so it’s called “downriver.”

Our boatmates were all compatible, and our guide, Abdula, was knowledgeable and an excellent storyteller. 

Sand Has Helped Preservation

We learned that many of the temples had been covered in sand for centuries, so many of the lower elements were well preserved. This temple at Esna looked like this in 1789. Note the height of the columns.

But now, after excavation, the columns have revealed their true height. In fact, the temple was in a “pit” in the middle of the town.

Workers were in the process of cleaning the ceiling (practically with a toothbrush). They removed black soot and revealed an ornate ceiling.

A Crash Course on Ancient Gods 

We were introduced to the major Egyptian gods in all the temples and tombs. Many tombs featured the god Ra– the god of the sun.

We were fans of the jackal-headed god of mummification, Anubis, and in this painting in Nefertari’s tomb, he looks like he’s smiling (for a job well done!)

The temples of Abu Simbel were built in 1244 BCE to honor Ramses II and his wife, Queen Nefertari.

These temples were moved––piece by piece–in 1968 as they would have been flooded in their original location along the Nile by the building of the Aswan High Dam. It took almost five years, involved about 3,000 workers and cost–in the 1960s–about $42 million. Quite the feat!

Abu Simbel, Egypt

Crocodiles

We learned that there used to be crocodiles in the Nile, but they now only live in the upper section of Lake Nassar. One of our boatmates wanted to make sure of this before we took a dip in the Nile! The crocodile god is well preserved at the Kom Ombo Temple, which was split down the middle to honor the two deities: the crocodile god Sobek and the falcon god Horus.

Also, in Kom Ombo, we saw mummified crocodiles from 3,000 years ago!

Pyramids 

In Giza, the three main pyramids were visible from the deck of our AirBnB. So, as we munched on our home-cooked breakfast, we looked out in awe. This was one of the best room views we’ve had in our travels. We arrived on the first night of Ramadan, and after sunset, the street buzzed with energy.

While the pyramids appear perfectly formed and symmetrical from a distance, they really are quite jagged and uneven as you approach them. Each stone is enormous.

The pyramids of Giza, Memphis and Saqqara highlight a visit to Cairo. Standing near the oldest pyramid in the world, Saqqara, we were humbled. Built in 2630 BCE, this “step pyramid” was the first attempt at building a pyramid – the techniques evolved over time!

Jan crouched and climbed down to the burial area underneath a nearby pyramid. The workers must have developed back pain building this passageway since it was very low. Other visitors noted that the passageway below the great pyramid of Giza is even more claustrophobic.

Built with approximately 2.3 million bricks (and no glue or mortar), the great pyramid of Giza rises from the earth with symmetry and grace, at least from a distance! The guides claimed that paid artisans instead of slaves built this. It was built during the period 2550 to 2490 BCE. 

All Aboard the Camels

We rode on camels named Bob Marley and Cassanova to get from the Pyramids Panoramic Viewpoint to the Sphinx. The camel boy Khalid was quite adept at silly cell phone photos.

As we loaded up to ride the camels, we were quite surprised to run into a good friend from Ketchum.

Yes, it is a small world!

“Tombs” of a Different Type

We ventured off the beaten tourist path to the Valley of The Whales. We witnessed fossilized whale bones – from 37 to 41 million years ago. Recently discovered, these 400+ fossils provide scientists with accurate evolutionary records of how four-legged, land-dwelling mammals transformed into relatives of whales who lived in the sea. Fascinating.

On the way back to Cairo, our car had a flat tire in the middle of the desert. We learned that our driver’s tire wrench was the wrong size (!), and although he had a spare tire, he didn’t have a jack. So, we had to wait a while for another car to stop and help us.

The other driver was very helpful and had the proper equipment. Since we were going to the airport for our flight to Aswan, our driver used his “Formula 1” driving skills to maneuver through the incredible Cairo traffic to get us to our plane on time. With constant lane-switching, horn honking, and total avoidance of lane lines, this traffic reminded us of driving in Lagos, Nigeria. Not for the faint-hearted! We made it to the airport with time to spare. We even had a cappuccino while we waited for the plane.

Egypt is a Popular Destination

As compared with Oman, Egypt is definitely on the tourist radar. Although we tried to visit sites early or late in the day, there were buses with tourists from around the world at most locations. Many guides carried flags; the guests had headsets providing English, Spanish, German, Chinese, or French commentary. We often had to jostle between the crowds to avoid losing one another.

Like us, many people had delayed previous trips from 2020 due to Covid. Egypt suffered during the lockdown, but now it’s on the rise and welcomes guests from everywhere.

Taking the Plunge in the Red Sea

After our two-week holiday of intense touring and temple-ing (?), we took a three-day break in Dahab, a laid-back beach resort at the tip of the Sinai Peninsula near Sharm el Shiekh. Interestingly, the most common tourists in Dahab are Israelis, as it is only a six-hour drive from Tel Aviv. This resort is just across the Gulf of Aqaba from Saudi Arabia.

Snorkeling revealed beautiful coral and diverse schools of fish. The water was warm, and the visibility was stunning. This was a different type of temple — under the water!

We snorkeled in Blue Hole, Egypt, one of the world’s five most famous blue holes. It is majestic from the water, boasts a total depth of 94 m (300 feet) and is on the “bucket list” for snorkelers and free divers. It is close to shore and looks impressive, even from land. This map showed us our snorkeling route.

Ancient Icons and Manuscripts Wrap up Our Trip

On our last day, we drove to Mt Sinai and visited the Monastery of St Catherine, a Greek Orthodox sanctuary. Built in the 6th century, this is one of the oldest continuously used monasteries in the world.

The icon museum held beautiful art from the 6th through 13th centuries, and we were blown away by the paintings that almost looked contemporary. Who knew these masterpieces had been preserved in this remote location?

We paid tribute to the location of the burning bush, where God spoke to Moses. This is a site revered by Christians, Jews, and Muslims.

Our guide, Solomon, was from a local Bedouin village where his family has lived for generations. He noted that St Catherine’s had survived intact for all these years because it garnered religious respect from many conquering entities over the centuries. Unfortunately, the Egyptian government tourist agency is developing a huge tourist resort just down the valley from the Monastery, which ruins the view and sits between the traditional Beduin community and the Monastery.

Abundance of Sites

We now understand how archeologists and Egypt scholars can spend lifetimes uncovering hidden treasures in the sand. Our two-week trip barely dented the surface, but these highlights were incredible. Walking among history dating back thousands of years was a very moving experience that we recommend to all. 

When we returned to SF, we were amused that the 4/3 Time Magazine issue featured the Giza Pyramids on the cover, with the article “The World’s Greatest Places.”

We must agree!

Note: Apologies for the late submission of this post. Since we returned from Egypt, we have switched our California base from San Francisco to Santa Barbara. Moving is always an adventure.

Oman by 4×4

From the smooth highway pavement to winding paths on rocky cliffs, our two-week road trip through Oman was filled with delightful surprises. We rented a Toyota “Fortuner” 4WD at the airport and drove on a circular route through the country. At times, the “off-roads” were challenging.

Off Road Magic

On the bumpy road towards Wadi Tiwi, a local stuck his head out the window of his car and yelled, “4 wheel now!”  We heeded his advice and were glad we did. The slope was very steep, and the road around the boulders was impossibly narrow and twisty. We joked, “Good thing this is the way in … hopefully there’s another road for the way out!” Not! Luckily there was not much traffic, and all drivers were courteous, as everyone recognized the narrow nature of the road.  

The road to Jebel Shams, the highest mountain in Oman, was described as: “Not for nervous or inexperienced drivers.”  That is an understatement, to be sure.

Ed drove slowly and carefully, and the Fortuner had high clearance and avoided the many boulders and rocks. (Jan had to hold her tongue, as any “driving tips” were not welcome–or Ed would say, “not necessary!”)

Balcony Walk

The mountain drive was worth it, as the views from Jebel Shams were incredible.

Often called the “Omani Grand Canyon,” this area offers a rim trail or “Balcony Walk.”  It’s an old trail once used by goats and shepherds. 

We hiked the 7-mile round trip Balcony Walk to an abandoned village. Over the 3.5-mile area, there were guard rails on about 20 feet of trail. 

On all the other parts, we had to rely on careful footing.  Often the trail disappeared, and we had to scamper over the rocks, looking for the next trail marker. On the way out, we didn’t realize we were descending, so the return was more challenging than we had expected.

The path on the edge of the canyon

Luckily we returned to the trailhead before it started to rain at about 2 pm. We learned that other hikers got stuck out there – soaking wet and more likely to slip on the slick surface.  

Making New Friends

Everywhere we went, we were impressed with the warmth and hospitality of the Omani people. People constantly offered us food and Omani coffee. We only saw one other American couple during our entire two-week tour, and the locals were surprised that we were from the USA. We received many smiles and curious glances.

Wanna Buy a Goat?

The Friday morning Goat market in Nizwa is a colorful and noisy affair. The night before, we scoped out the empty arena where the market would take place the next day.  

The empty market the night before

On Friday at 7 am, the place was abuzz with goats bleating and men haggling.  For some, it was an opportunity to get together with friends and exchange stories.

In this traditional market, the sellers “parade” their goats around the arena while buyers observe the goats.

If interested, a buyer can wave the goat herder over, and check out the goat – by looking at its teeth (to determine age and health) and feeling the udders – to determine whether the goat is pregnant. Buyers see a pregnant goat as a two-for-one deal. Once a deal is cut, the cash is transferred, and the goat gets tied up somewhere so the buyer can load it in his truck or car trunk and take it home. Once the parade of goats started, the action moved quite quickly.

Jan met one of the goat buyers, Samir, as he completed his transaction. 

He purchased this beauty for 32 Rial, which is $82.

After chatting briefly, Samir told Jan, “I would love to have you visit me at my farm in Quriyat.”  We discovered we would drive by Quriyat on the way back to Muscat, so we said, “ok!”  We exchanged WhatsApp numbers and parted ways.

We contacted Samir and arranged a visit. Finding the farm was challenging, as Google maps couldn’t direct us. Instead, we used a dropped pin on WhatsApp and made our way to a narrow driveway. We had found the right place!  

Samir gave us a tour of the farm, and we saw the goat in her new surroundings. (She has to be quarantined for 10 days to make sure she has no disease.) 

Samir also has camels and cows on his farm.  This baby camel was 5 days old.

We were surprised when Samir said, “I hope you can stay for 3 or 4 days!  Here is your private suite. My cook is ready to cook for you, and the beach is nearby.”  We were appreciative of this offer, but said we only planned to stop by for an hour-or-so and say hello.  (As a small gift of appreciation, we wanted to bring him something American, so we brought him a goodie bag of Oreos and Chips Ahoy cookies. He said his grandchildren would be fans.)  Next time we may accept this type of hospitality, as it would have been fascinating. 

Wading in the Wadi’s

Wadi’s are natural springs that dot the landscape.  Over many centuries, these wadis have been developed with falajs, or innovative irrigation troughs designed for neighbors to share water from the wadi.  We hiked along these falajs to access the main pools of the wadis. 

At Wadi Tiwi, a local friend Josef guided us along the falajs and helped us make our way to the central pools.

A bit further up the rocky road, we met another new friend, Mohammed, who skillfully guided us toward a waterfall and additional pools.  Since there were no signs or marked paths, we were glad for the local assistance.

Less adventurous travelers can opt for Wadi Bin Khalid … (we called this “Wadi Light”) as it boasts a very short paved path from the parking lot, pay toilets, and a snack bar where tourists can have a buffet lunch.  We opted to swim in this Wadi, as there were changing rooms, and it looked like there might even be a lifeguard!

Swimming in traditional Omani waters is a conservative affair, as there are guidelines for tourists:

Braving the Bimmah Sinkhole

Local legend says that this gigantic hole in the earth was made by a crashing meteor. The clear waters beckoned at 50 meters by 70 meters, and Jan had to jump in!

We learned ‘it’s all about the framing’ when it comes to some tourist recommendations. Although we found the stairway down to the sinkhole to be a “feature,” as it had a handrail–a rare sight on many cobblestone stairways–the guidebook was not so positive.  It read:

The sinkhole – formerly one of the coast’s most magical beauty spots – has now been utterly defaced in the name of tourism, with an ugly stone wall … and the steps … which has reduced the spot to a level of suburban naff.”

The officials wanted us to recognize that we were responsible for the risks involved.

We were amused to find two women conducting market research at the entrance. They were probing visitors on what could make this site more attractive to visitors. We suggested that “Sink Hole” might not be the most inviting site name. They weren’t familiar with the snarky text of the guidebook.

Forts Abound

Many of the cities hosted large forts.  Some were originally built by the Portuguese in the 1700s; others were built by various Sultans over the centuries.  

All were very interesting and offered expansive views from the lookout towers.

One of the unique features of the Jarbin Fort (from 1670) was some hidden passageways known as “murder holes” where the soldiers could pour boiling hot date juice on intruders as they tried to access the interior of the fort. This would have been quite the deterrent!

Fortunately, the murder holes are now empty.

A Night in the Desert

We found a professional 4×4 driver to guide us over the sand to our desert camp. He was an expert at “dune bashing” and drove us successfully to our camp.

His tires were deflated to accommodate the sand.

The sunset over the desert was breathtaking.

More 4×4 in Musandam

We traveled to Khasab in northern Oman (in an area that is not contiguous with the rest of the country) and took a 4×4 ride up the mountains with a professional driver, Harim.  The road was bumpy and steep, but Jan was more relaxed with Harim at the wheel (instead of Ed!)

We also took a dhow (traditional Omani boat) cruise among the fjords. This area is often called the “Norway of Oman.”  The dramatic cliffs–called “khors”–soared high above the water, and we enjoyed this relaxing cruise, lounging on pillows that graced the boat’s central area. The boat captain knew how to invite the local dolphin pods to swim to the surface and race the boat. They put on quite a show.

Thank you, Sultan Qaboos

The modernization of Oman is credited to Sultan Qaboos, who reigned from 1970 to his death in 2020. 

He is beloved by all; his photo is everywhere; and many Omani landmarks bear his name.  The Grand Mosque in Muscat is an excellent example of his legacy. As of the largest mosques in the Middle East, the main hall can hold 20,000 people.

Modern Oman

Unlike many authoritarian leaders, Sultan Qaboos used the revenues generated by oil production since its first oil export in 1967 to modernize the country’s infrastructure. While this post has focused on our off-road experiences, we must emphasize that the limited-access highways of Oman are fantastic, with smooth pavement and clear signage. Frankly, Oman’s highways put many roads in the Bay Area to shame. Similarly, an expansive electrical grid and 5G mobile communication reach every corner of the country. Every child has access to education, including boarding schools for those in rural areas. We visited the Museum of People and Places in Muscat–a small museum that shows family life in Oman just 50 years before oil export began. The progress toward modernization that has occurred in the last 50 years is nothing short of startling.

Farewell Oman!

Our two weeks in Oman were filled with new experiences and adventures.  We were impressed with the country’s safety, warmth, and hospitality. We enjoyed meeting new friends, tasting the local food, and traveling the country independently. Although Google Maps sometimes got confused–the “lady” couldn’t read Arabic, so she would say, “Turn at the ….”–we navigated successfully and could always make a U-turn if necessary.

Amazing Antarctica

Kayaking among whales, penguins, and seabirds in Antarctica was magical. Over several beautiful days, we paddled in awe as pods of Humpback whales fed on abundant krill less than 50 yards away.

Our kayaking group consisted of 10 guests plus two guides. The guests paddled in two-person kayaks; one guide led the way in a solo kayak; the other guide stayed close by in a Zodiac.

Whale Feeding Frenzy

We could paddle very close to magnificent icebergs and glaciers while whales fed nearby.

The whales feed on krill during their migration from the equator. We learned that Southern Hemisphere humpbacks travel from Antarctica to the equator to breed. Northern Hemisphere whales travel from the Arctic to the equator, but they never cross paths because each reaches the equator in their winter.

Bubble-net Feeding

On several occasions, we paddled close to groups of whales who were bubble-net feeding. This is a cooperative feeding method, where the senior whale instructs the others to form a circle where they trap small fish and krill in a “net” of bubbles. According to Wikipedia, “one whale will sound a feeding call, at which point all whales simultaneously swim upwards with mouths open to feed on the trapped fish.” Then, they all blow bubbles and rise out of the water at the same time, creating a very dramatic effect. When our guide noted that a bubble net was being created, she yelled loudly, “back paddle, back paddle,” and we all backed up our kayaks to avoid the crashing whales and waves created by their activities. We learned that it is the senior females in the pod who instruct the junior members on how and when to feed like this. (You go, girls!)

Penguins Abound

In addition to the whales, we also paddled near many penguin rookeries. Both the Chinstrap and the Chintoo penguins call Antarctica their home. 

Penguins are very comfortable around kayakers. They check us out from the shore and swim right up to the boats. 

They travel on “penguin roads” up and down the mountain to plunge into the water, find fish, and clean their feathers. Often they slide down the hills on their rears.

Antarctic Seabirds

We also saw Antarctic Shags, which have the same coloring as penguins but have long necks and can fly. They mostly live in harmony with the penguins but sometimes steal from their neighbors.

This Snowy Sheathbill–or as affectionately known, a “shit eater”–landed on our kayak, looking for food. He didn’t find anything on our kayak and returned to land … to eat penguin poop!  

Sheathbills eat krill, like almost all creatures in Antarctica, but they’re not built to go into the water. Sheathbills fly nonstop from South America to Antarctica as they do not have webbed feet and can not land on water. It’s incredible how this bird has adapted to life on the White Continent. 

Kayaking Was a Blast

Our gang of 10 kayakers bonded over this near-sacred experience. We learned the “man overboard” drill but never had to use it. Everyone became proficient at getting in and out of the kayak, transitioning to the Zodiac and safely returning to the ship as well as backpaddling to get away from bubble-nets.

Our kayaking guides, Ewan and Sophie, were experts in Antarctic kayaking, having taken a 14-day self-supported trip through the glaciers while making the film ICEolation which is available on Prime Video.

We grew quite fond of our dry suits and kayak skirts and were sad when we had to return them to the ship.

On-Land Adventure

On the Magellan Explorer ship, we sailed with 60 other travelers–and 60 crew members– to cruise along the icy waters, land ashore in Zodiacs, and hike to some dramatic peaks for 360-degree vistas. 

We experienced a wide range of Antarctic weather – from hail that erupted during our hike during a shore visit to brilliant sunshine that danced off the dramatic icebergs.

Hail started soon after this picture was taken.

Every day we participated in a shore landing and climbed to a peak for 360-degree views.

Antarctic Air Travel

Instead of spending two days crossing Drake’s Passage by sea, our Antarctica21 expedition flew over the passage in two hours. Antarctica21 charters special planes piloted by Antarctic Airways, experts in Antarctic flight. They are designed to land safely on the short landing strip on King George Island. Since the window for a safe flight can be narrow, we waited all day for our flight to be scheduled, and in the afternoon, we learned that our flight would leave at 9:30 pm. Check out the weather! There was almost no darkness in the early-summer night.

Although we thought it was ridiculous when the guides told us to “wear your waterproof pants and boots on the plane,” we were glad we did.

At 11:30 pm,  we landed on the strip and were whisked away to the shore where the Zodiacs awaited. 

At midnight, we were trained on how to don our life vests and to sit safely in the Zodiacs. It was still quite bright outside!

Then, we boarded the Zodiacs and zipped through the icy water to board the ship that waited offshore. Once everyone was aboard, we participated in safety drills and learned about the ship’s emergency procedures. By 2 am, we went to bed, and the ship moved to our first landing spot. The next day the guides let us know that this type of “midnight express” was highly unusual, and they noted that all of the guests performed admirably and were in excellent spirits. We were thinking, “hmmm… I wonder if it’s going to be like this every day?”  Luckily, the rest of the trip went smoothly.

Antarctica Activities

We loved our companions on the ship. There was a certain ‘like-mindedness’ among the travelers. Most had traveled widely, and Antarctica was a ‘bucket list’ item. Many were happy to land on their 7th continent. 

A few hardy souls, including Jan, participated in the ‘polar plunge,’ where we jumped into the frigid waters from the ship’s landing dock. We were tethered to the dock, and luckily two strong men pulled us back in quickly.

One afternoon, our captain heard about a pod of pilot whales in the area. He skillfully maneuvered towards them and then stopped in their vicinity. The whales were playing in the sea – and seemed very curious about our ship. They swam underneath the ship and poked their heads out of the water on both sides. The experienced crew came out from the bridge to share this magical sight. 

One evening, the crew prepared an outdoor barbeque, and we enjoyed hamburgers, steak, chicken, corn on the cob and all the fixings on the back deck where the boat sheltered us from the wind.

When it was time to wrap up our trip, we boarded the Zodiacs and zipped back to the landing strip. The next group of travelers arrived on this plane, and we flew back to Chile after a quick turnaround.

The serenity and beauty of the incredible White Continent profoundly touched us. After reading several harrowing accounts of the early explorers in the late 1800s and early 1900s, we feel privileged to have been able to experience Antarctica’s magnificence in absolute comfort and safety. We hope that the area is preserved in its pristine beauty for many future generations of whales, penguins, and visitors.

(As our long-time readers know, we rarely recommend specific hotels, restaurants or tour operators, but in this case, we must endorse Antartica21, the operator of our trip. The boat was almost new and very well-designed. With 60 passengers and 60 crew–composed of exploration leaders, hospitality and ship navigation teams–the Magellan Explorer was fast and agile, quickly moving from place to place so we could experience multiple locations each day. Every aspect was extremely well organized and of the highest quality, with a deep focus on safety. We strongly recommend the kayaking option as the guides are nurturing, the physical exertion is minimal, and the dry suits are quite warm. Also, note that some of the photos in this post were supplied by the photographer and kayak guides on our ship. )

We wish everyone a very happy 2023! We are delighted to be back “on the move” and hope to “assume the position” in other exotic locations in the coming year.

Patagonian Liquidity

Ed and I spent a glorious 10 days around Bariloche and El Calafate, two major towns in Argentinian Patagonia. Everywhere we went, we were surrounded by water in all its natural forms – lakes, glaciers, rivers, waterfalls, icebergs … and in its brewed and fermented form, cerveza and Malbec!!

Lakes Abound in Bariloche

Bariloche is an adventure hub surrounded by gorgeous lakes. The 360-degree view from the top of one of the local peaks, Cerro Campanario did not disappoint!  

We hiked to the top of Cerro Llao Llao for other dramatic vistas and “assumed the position”.

And we drove the famous “Ruta 40” to visit the route of the seven lakes. The weather was clear, and the water glistened in many shades of blue and turquoise. 

Yellow flowers dotted the sides of the road from all directions.

And the lupin graced the fields in shades of purple and pink.

Many visitors drive Ruta 40 from Bolivia to the tip of Argentina. Some drive the iconic VW Bus.

We were surprised to see this driver!

On this route, we had a short visit with Gustavo, the stepfather of Karen, our granddaughter’s au-pair. What a small world!  

The Hotel Llao Llao, built in 1939, exemplifies beauty and elegance and offers glorious views of the lakes. The hotel is majestic both inside and out and makes the Sun Valley Lodge (which we think is great) look like a baby cousin!

Magnificent Glaciers near El Calafate

We spent several magical days exploring Los Glaciares National Park, a huge area that is the size of Switzerland. It surrounds Lago Argentina, the largest lake in the country. On a day tour, we got ‘up close and personal to the Perito Moreno glacier. We enjoyed a short boat ride to experience the glacier from the North.

And we walked on an extensive network of walkways to see the glacier up close. We heard the glacier “calving,” where large ice chunks broke off from the glacier’s edge and crashed into the lake.

On another day, we took a boat ride to see the Upsala Glacier. Our boat hovered very close to magnificent icebergs. We could see 10-20% of the iceberg above the water and realized that 80-90% of the iceberg was below the surface.

At Estancia Cristina, we took a hike to a dramatic waterfall. This Estancia, only accessible by boat, was settled in 1904. We learned that the couple that settled in this area to live off the land lived to be 102 and 99!  They credited glacier water as the key to longevity.

The horses are some of the few year-round residents of this remote spot.

Futbol Fever at the Cervecerías!

Since Argentina was competing in the World Cup, the nation paused during the games as the entire country tuned into the TV to watch the games. Many people wore their blue and white jerseys.

For Game #2 (vs Mexico), we settled into a lovely outdoor pub in Buenos Aires. The fans went wild as each goal was scored. All the attendees sang the National Anthem and all of the soccer songs with pride. Folks were a bit nervous after the Game #1 loss to Saudi Arabia. But they were thrilled with the 2-1 victory.

For Game #3 (vs Poland), we found a Cervecería in Bariloche. The 2-0 victory vs  Poland had the fans cheering, “Messi … Messi … Messi!”

We watched the Semi-Finals (vs. Australia) in El Calafate. Again, the fans went wild with the 2-1 victory. The excitement was similar to what we observed on a previous trip to Latin America during the World Cup in 2014. Also, Ed experienced the fever in 1970 while living in Brazil as a high school exchange student. Pele led the team that brought home the Copa do Mundo.

And Don’t Forget the Malbec!

Another liquid delight in Argentina is the ubiquitous Malbec. We enjoyed many versions of this during our stay. At one restaurant, we selected our wine from this walk-in cellar instead of a wine list.

At another restaurant, we sampled Catalpa wine, which reminded us of our address in Atherton.

All choices — from the house wine at $2 in Buenos Aires to a more premium
$8 selection — were delicious! And, they were a delightful accompaniment to the local lamb shepherd pie and stew.

Financial Liquidity?  Not so much…

With the turmoil facing the Argentinian Peso, we learned that there are many different exchange rates for the USD. The banks offer the “official exchange rate” of 170 pesos/dollar. This is the rate you get if you use a credit card or an ATM. Hotels and other tourist locations accept USD (cash) at a rate of 290 pesos/dollar. This is known as the “blue rate.” But, if you send money to yourself at Western Union using a US debit card, the rate is 324 pesos/dollar. We chose the latter option, so all of our cash expenses came at a deep discount. Luckily we didn’t have to stand in line to get cash, and we didn’t face any shortages, which we learned are common. There is a website that changes daily that shows all of the updated rates. For small businessmen, such as our lodge keeper near Bariloche, dealing with inflation and exchange rates is a constant challenge. Argentina presents an amazing opportunity for foreign travelers to travel well on a small budget. For example, we had dinner for two at a steakhouse restaurant in a beautiful Buenos Aires neighborhood. In San Francisco, this meal, including our fine Malbec, would have cost perhaps $100 per person. In Buenos Aires, the cost was about $20.

So, our trip through Patagonia was a liquid delight! Given that we used the Western Union option to get our pesos, we also had financial liquidity … at a deep discount! Next Stop: Antarctica!

Stay tuned…

“Best of All, He Loved the Fall…”

Hemingway memorialized these words about Sun Valley, Idaho, in 1939. His thoughts hold true today as Ed and I have enjoyed this October’s beautiful weather, colorful foliage and an endless variety of activities, including biking, sheep festivities, a jazz festival and wine tasting.

Biking Along Warm Springs Creek

Right outside of our door, we can embark on a world-class bike ride along a gravel road that parallels Warm Springs Creek.

Even though it’s always beautiful, the 20-mile bike ride to Frenchman’s Hot Springs presented a riot of color when we rode there this month.

Aspens were ablaze in shades of yellow, orange and red. Ed even found a tree that matched his jersey.

Sunlight danced on the water, Aspen leaves fluttered in the breeze and the afternoon shadows encroached on the winding road.

We saw very few other bikers or drivers on this gravel route. However, the “washboard style” ruts in the road reflected heavy use over the last 60 days. This road was much smoother in early summer, as it is graded in the Spring. Campers, fishermen, UPS drivers, dirt bikers and other adventurers use this road to reach streams, camping, and other activities. During our fall ride, only the ruts remained. We tried to avoid them whenever possible because they provide a full-body jiggle when encountered directly!

The Hot Springs were empty when we visited. During the summer, many bathers enjoy the therapeutic waters and beautiful setting. 

Celebrating All Things Sheep

The Trailing of the Sheep festival celebrated its 33rd anniversary. We attended the parade with many tributes to the heritage of the Wood River Valley. Shepherds and their horses paraded down Main Street.

Peruvian dancers demonstrated their prowess, Basque swordsmen wore traditional dress and bagpipers blasted out tunes.

The local rabbi blessed the occasion by blowing the Shofar.

And, at the end of the parade, a large flock of sheep ran down Main Street. They were transferring from the high mountain areas to warmer, lower grounds for the winter.

Some of the sheep weren’t completely satisfied following the crowd.

Sheep Dog Competition

One of the more interesting “scenes” was the Sheepdog Trials. This was a four-day event showcasing the prowess of sheepdogs and their control over a flock of sheep. We watched a competition where each dog competitor was timed as they herded four sheep through an obstacle course of fences, gates and corrals, culminating in separating the four sheep into two pairs. The finale included corralling the sheep into a pen. The dogs were directed by their handler, who used hand signals and whistles to communicate. Many of the competing teams were very skilled.

Sheep dog corrals sheep in Sun Valley
The dog corrals the sheep into the area marked by cones.
Then he splits them into two groups

The dogs were rewarded in a cool plunge after their turn. 

Life is good!

Some of the teams were “DQ’ed” (disqualified). This included one team which allowed a wayward sheep to leave the competition area and jump right between Jan and Ed, who were viewing the competition from a distance. We can testify that this sheep was very large … and smelly!  It happened so fast, and the sheep avoided stepping on us – instead, he found a gap between our chairs and sailed right over us! Yikes. (This happened too fast for a photo!)

Wool Festival

All types of sheep products were celebrated at an interesting Crafts Festival in Hailey. Wool was spun and dyed before our eyes, and interested customers purchased cheeses, handmade hats, sweaters, and wool accessories. The variety and creativity of the items were exquisite!

Sun Valley Jazz and Music Festival

The Sun Valley Jazz Festival is a 5-day extravaganza celebrating all things jazz. Musical acts from all over the country congregate at the Sun Valley Inn. They perform in 5 venues and offer a variety from zydeco to big band to piano duels to blues and beyond. Most groups were very talented and delighted to be back on stage after a two-year hiatus.

Tom Rigney & Flambeau added a Cajun flair.
The Midiri brothers were our favorites. Amazing talent on woodwinds and vibraphone.
Dueling pianos was one of Jan’s favorite acts. Such talent!

Ed and I often feel like we’re the oldest members at some events. But, we brought down the average age at this festival, as it was quite a senior crowd. No wonder AARP is a sponsor!

Many festival attendees bring their AirStream trailers and park in the River Run ski area parking lot. 

We joked that the Gulfstream private jet maintenance trailer parks in the Sun Valley Airport during the annual Allen Conference for the billionaire summer camp in July. Perhaps the AirStream maintenance trailer should park in this lot in October!

Wine Tasting in Glenns Ferry

Jan had the chance to visit Glenns Ferry, Idaho, a town of around 1300 people known for the “Two Island Crossing” of the Oregon Trail. In the late 1850s, pioneers forded the treacherous Snake River at this point. Later, a ferry was established. According to the Glenns Ferry website:

In 1869 Gustavus Glenn built a ferry boat so that his wagons and others could cross the Snake River without the danger of driving horse and oxen teams through the treacherous waters. By this time traffic on the Oregon trail was heavy in both directions. His ferry crossed the Snake River about a mile downstream from where Glenns Ferry, the community, is today.

Today, the town hosts several wineries, including the Y Knot Winery. On an October Saturday, the restaurant and bar were hopping! Jan met her high school friends at the winery and decided to sample the varietals.

Deborah, Cheri, and Jan — friends since 7th grade!
Each sample was clearly identified. Deborah’s husband, Scott, enjoyed the tasting as well.

On a historical note, Cheri was a teacher in this community starting in 1976. Jan visited Glenns Ferry with Cheri in ‘76 to check out the community and tour the mobile home that would be provided as part of her compensation package. Cheri noted that the school had been upgraded a bit since her tenure.

This phone booth graced one of the streets in Glenns Ferry. A local resident told us that over 1,000 people take their pictures here every year. 

During the 1976  trip, Cheri and Jan also camped in Sun Valley and visited the bar at the Sun Valley Lodge. This was Jan’s introduction to the area, and the rest is history!

So, as mentioned earlier, we agree with Ernest:

Best of all he loved the fall … the fall with the tawny and grey, the leaves yellow on the cottonwoods, leaves floating on the trout streams and above the hills the high blue windless skies

Amazing Azores

After our April visit to Madeira, Ed and I traveled to two islands in the Azores – Terceira and San Miguel. Both of these Portuguese islands are luscious and green – definitely worthy of their nicknames “Islas Verdes.” The Azores benefit from both the rich landscape and the ever-present seascape.

Jan and Ed at Sete Cidades

Travels in Terceira

In Terceira, we were captivated by the green hills that were criss-crossed by grids of lava-stone walls.

lava walls on Terceira

Cows Abound!

Terciera has more “bovine” residents than human residents, and these cows enjoy the enclaves created by the walls. In addition to providing enclosures, these picturesque walls enable farmers to clear pastures for grazing, not dissimilar from the early New England settlers who built stone walls around their farmland. Often we were “up close and personal” with the cows, as they sometimes wandered along the small roads that traverse the island.

Cows are everywhere, and they produce an abundance of dairy products. We enjoyed cheese tasting at some local farms. Also, the beef was incredible. We dined at Restaurante da Associacao Agricola, operated by the beef ranchers association, where the steaks were terrific (and some of the largest we’d ever eaten).

Terceira’s lush landscapes and island setting inspire some unique Azorean cuisine. The Molha de Carne is a traditional beef stew of local ingredients served for two or more.

Freshest Fish Imaginable

At Taberna Roberto, a small family restaurant, we selected our fish from the “catch of the day” and enjoyed its excellent preparation. 

While Taberna Roberto is listed in Trip Advisor as the #1 restaurant in this area of the Azores, we were a bit surprised that it barely beat out Subway which is ranked #2. (!)

We based ourselves in Angra de Heroismo, a UNESCO World Heritage City, with many impressive buildings from the 1600s. These reflect Portugal’s prowess as a mighty sea trader. The ubiquitous Black and White mosaic pavement reminded us of Rio de Janeiro.

And, we relaxed in our cottage on the property of Vale dos Milhafres. Henry, our host, was especially gracious and helpful and pointed us to his favorite sites and restaurants. The sunsets were beautiful from our patio. 

Getting around this small island in our rental car was easy as the roads are quite well designed and maintained and there is little traffic. 

Savoring San Miguel

Continuing our journey of unique “eats” in the Azores, we headed to Furnas on San Miguel to try the “cozido das furnas”, a delicacy cooked in a bubbling pit in the ground heated by a volcano. Before lunch, we witnessed the chefs lifting the stew from the holes in the ground.

Then we joined a large crowd of families to try this delicacy at “Restaurante Tony’s.”

These volcanic pools reminded us of the bubbling pits around Yellowstone. 

Octopus Anyone?

Another interesting delicacy was “polvo guisado” (octopus in red wine) – only served in a small town of Mosteiros, on the northern tip of the island. This restaurant was a bit tricky to find, as Google Maps is not very accurate in this area. The restaurant appeared to be closed, but when we entered, a waiter popped up from behind the bar and was happy to serve us.

Hot Tub in the Atlantic

The proximity to the ocean not only offers incredible views and seafood, but offers a chance to dunk in a natural hot tub in a cove heated by a volcano.  We would recommend other travelers to try this at low tide (10 am in our case), as our visit at noon was a bit rough. We (and other intrepid tourists) hiked down to the cove and carefully lowered ourselves down a slippery, moss-ladened ladder to enter the hot water. The tide rushed in and out, causing a natural jacuzzi effect. Ropes connected to the rocks allowed for everyone to hang on, ensuring that no one was washed out to sea.  When we hoisted ourselves back up the ladder, we looked at each other with a grin that said, “Yea, we survived!  Next time it will be at low tide!  Later, we saw a photo of waves crashing over this cove at 5 pm.

Tea and Pineapple — Who Knew?

The landscape also allows growing of two more interesting crops – tea and pineapple. The Cha Gorreana plantation is the only place where tea is grown in Europe.  Dating from the 1880s, they still use some of the original equipment to sort and pack the tea. The fields reminded us of our visit to a tea plantation in Sri Lanka. (One difference is that the tea is picked by hand in Sri Lanka, while they use machines to pick the tea on San Miguel.)

Also, Paulo, our host in Ponta Delgada (the capital city on San Miguel) grows pineapple in hot houses on his property.  Paulo has been working with the plants in these hot houses since he was six years old , when he worked here with his father who was a paid-laborer working with the pineapples. When the property became available, Paulo purchased it and created two rental cottages on the property. He carries on the pineapple grower tradition with an abundant crop. The pineapples are delicious!

Beautiful Hiking Trails

The hiking around San Miguel island was superb.  Many trails criss-cross the mountains. We especially enjoyed the scenery at Sete Cidades, which boasts two connected lakes. On a clear day, one appears green and the other blue, due to the shadows from the surrounding cliffs. When we visited, the sky was cloudy and the color of the lakes looked similar, but they were still beautiful.

We assumed the “position” and another hiker snapped our picture in the middle of the blue lake.

Jan and Ed at Sete Cidades

The Azores – California Connection

Prior to our trip, we read The Tenth Island, a memoir written by Diana Marcum, an LA Times reporter who traveled between the Central Valley of California and Terceira. There is an intimate connection between these two locations, since many dairy farmers fled poverty in Terceira in the early part of the 20th Century and settled in Central Valley towns like Fresno, Lemore, Madera, and Modesto. In this memoir the author describes her year-long stay on Terceira and presents vignettes about her travel and connections around the island. Also, there is a strong connection between other islands of the Azores and New Bedford and Fall River, Massachusetts where Azoreans settled to earn money from their fishing skills. Paulo, our host in San Miguel frequently visits his relatives in New Bedford. In the small world category, this is one of the towns we will go through during our upcoming Massachusetts bike trip.  Stay tuned.

If You Go

We relied on the following travel guide, as we knew no one who had spent a week in the Azores:  Top 10 Azores.  And, definitely read The Tenth Island for local flavor.

In Terceira we highly recommend booking directly with Henry at Vale dos Milhafres. He was extremely helpful and accommodating. You can contact him on Facebook.

In San Miguel, we recommend Paulo’s place, The Pineapple Studio. It’s in a convenient location and Paulo will take great care of you!

Note to readers: Our blog posts now contain affiliate links, including for the Amazon Associates program. If you click or buy from one of these links, we may earn a small commission.

Fun in Funchal

Ed and I spent the first week of April exploring and savoring the island of Madeira, Portugal. We were based in Funchal, the capital city. Madeira had never been on our radar, and we knew no one who had spent time here, so we plunged ahead without knowing what to expect. We found that the island was completely set up for tourism and was a mecca for Europeans who were escaping cold winters.

Whooshing Down the Mountain

As a nod to the traditions of the island, one of the main tourist attractions is a two-kilometer “sled ride” down the mountain in a traditional wicker sled on skis. Yikes! We paid 30 Euros and waited in line for our “drivers” to prepare our sled. They wore traditional white uniforms with rubber-soled shoes to help them brake our sled, steering with ropes attached to the skis. It took about 15 minutes to get down the mountain. What a trip!

Jan and Ed on Madeira sled

The “technology” is the same as it was in the 1890s when the sled was the only way to get down the “Monte” mountain in Funchal, other than walking. Sleds can reach a cruising speed of 38 km/hour.

Communing with Whales and Dolphins

We joined a group on a Zodiac ride in the ocean to say hello to bottlenose dolphins and pilot whales. They obliged and put on quite a show around our boat. This part of the ocean is home to 28 different species of cetaceans (dolphins and whales) in various seasons of the year. The ones we saw were local to the area, and not just passing through on their migration path. 

Hiking the Lavadas of Madeira

Since Madeira is very, very mountainous, the locals created a way to capture rainwater from the high mountains and bring it to the fields below. The elaborate system of “levadas” weaves its way around the mountains and provides water to fields below. You can hike along the waterways and see this incredible engineering. There are 2500 kilometers of levadas on the island. 

Jan walking along Madeira levada.

Sometimes the open levada canals are funneled into a pipe that tunnels through the mountain. We found one of these tunnels and hiked a kilometer in the pitch dark. Luckily we had our mobile phones and could turn on the flashlight. More prepared hikers had their headlamps at the ready. One less prepared hiker told us his phone was dead so he decided to follow us through the tunnel guided by our light. We were happy to help!

Vistas Above the Clouds

At the 6000-foot summit of Pico do Arieiro, the third highest mountain on the island, we enjoyed the vistas and assumed the position above the clouds.

To get here from Funchal, we took a winding 15-kilometer drive. There are many beautiful hiking trails on the island and lots of adventure groups come here for a week or more. 

Small Towns Offer Charm

As we drove around the island we saw many small towns nestled in the hillsides and fishing villages hugging the coast. Madeira’s roads are well signed and in excellent condition with many long tunnels and roundabouts. Driving with the guidance of Google Maps was quite pleasant with little traffic. It was definitely worth it to leave the bustle of Funchal to experience a more authentic taste of traditional Madeira life.

The coastal village of Ponta do Sol is supposed to be the sunniest spot on this island. However, we visited on a not-so-sunny day.

Ponta do Sol

Winston Churchill was inspired to paint in the village of Câmara de Lobos.

At the Miradouro do Cabo Girão, the views from the skywalk on one of the highest cliffs in Europe were dramatic.

Ed at Cabo Girao in Madeira

Visiting with A College Friend

In the “small world” category, we heard in advance that one of Jan’s college friends and his wife would also be visiting Madeira at the same time. So, we emailed them and set up a rendezvous. Given that we both were previously unaware of this island, this was truly a coincidence!

Cristiano Ronaldo Airport

The Madeira airport, named after Cristiano Ronaldo, Madeira’s favorite son and soccer star, hosts a wide variety of discount airlines from Europe, including Peter Pan (!) and EasyJet. Historically, it was a treacherous airport for landing – given the lack of flat plains on this very mountainous island. Portuguese engineering solved this problem in 2000 by extending the runway to 2781 meters with 180 ingenious pillars over the sea that extend the runway to allow for safe and smooth takeoff and landing. The airport itself is a tourist attraction!

Maderia airport in Funchal

Also, Azores Airlines now offers a non-stop flight from JFK to Madeira. This flight was advertised in a “TravelZoo” promotional newsletter, which sparked our interest in coming here, although Ed’s interest in trying to use his Brazilian Portuguese in a Portugal territory was also a motivator. 

Tourism Infrastructure Abounds

Madeira boasts an incredible number of hotels and apartments catering to tourists of all types. Our Airbnb which had an incredible ocean view was owned by a Russian woman who communicated with us in English. Our local AirBnB host was Ukrainian. Most restaurants have menus in multiple languages and there are numerous tour operators who offer tours to the Levadas, hiking trips, boat rides, and 4×4 experiences. Virtually everyone working around tourists speaks English to some extent. When Ed spoke to people in Portuguese, most of the time they responded in English, much to his disappointment. We were told that 80% of the tourists come from countries other than Portugal, so English fluency is a necessity.

We enjoyed our week in Madeira. Is it a “must-see?” Not really. But, it is very well set up for tourism, the main industry. Many cruise ships visit for the day, and the city seems to be able to handle the onslaught of tourists with aplomb. We heard many different languages but saw very few Americans. It’s a pleasant place with many activities for tourists and a relaxing environment. 

If You Go

We relied on these two books: Lonely Planet Madeira and Top 10 Madeira. Both were helpful. We rented a car for the week, but really only needed it when we drove out of town. So, we could have rented it for half the time and saved money. We also read numerous blog posts about visiting the island. And, we heeded the advice of this sign: