It sounded like a good idea. Rent a camper. Experience the Outback off-road. Sleep under the stars. Channel our inner “Crocodile Dundee”.

Unfortunately, we had failed to consider two critical aspects of March travel in the Outback — heat and the bugs!

Our first warning came as we disembarked from the plane in Alice Springs — the gateway to the Outback. The ramp worker wore shorts with a bug net on her head!  We looked at each other with concern. Yikes. What had we gotten ourselves into?

Setting out in our Apollo LandCruiser

We picked up our 4WD camper in Alice Springs and filled it up with diesel fuel.

We purchased provisions, including bug spray, for a week of outback adventure and drove to Glen Helen, the first outback station on the Red Center Circle. The moment we got out of the car flies bombarded us. We saw two French tourists wearing bug nets and inquired, “Where can we get these?” Luckily, bug nets are widely available, We happily purchased two.

These nets became our constant companions for the week.

After a dip in the dramatic gorge and the refreshing swimming pool with bug nets over our heads, we cooked our dinner in a screened shed along with the French tourists who also had a camper. (We called ourselves “Apollo un y Apollo Deux”.) Then we set up our “home” for the night. While reading, Jan swatted a seemingly infinite number of bugs with her book.

 

Hmm….. maybe this camper thing wasn’t such a good idea.

Off Road!

The next morning, after donning bug nets, we headed onwards towards King’s Canyon. The temperature was at least 100 degrees after 9 am. As the pavement turned to gravel and rock, we noticed many tires by the side of the road; now we understood why passenger cars were prohibited.

 

We stopped to see if we could help one of our fellow “Apollo travelers” who had this flat tire.

This pair was German, and Jan was able to ask, “Konnen wir Sie helfen?” Fortunately, they were traveling with another German couple who at the time was driving a couple of kilometers ahead. The friends quickly returned to their forlorn friends and provided assistance so our help was not needed. We later saw both couples, as they were trying to figure out where they could purchase an additional spare tire.

After seeing this incident, Ed decided to slow down and take it easy. We were in no rush, and didn’t want to join the “Flat Tire Club.” Since the camper had excellent A/C, we were happy staying inside. We listened to the delightful book on tape, In a Sunburned Country by Bill Bryson, which captures his experience on a road trip through Australia in the early 2000’s. He also made note of the bugs.

At Kings Canyon, we opted for the lodge, as we were “one and done” for sleeping in the camper. Luckily we secured the second to last available room. We enjoyed the pool and the A/C!  The full moon was spectacular, and the local Aussies pointed out the wide range of stars, including the Southern Cross.

Uluru Magic

We ventured on to Uluru–the indigenous name for Ayers Rock–and opted for the lodge with pool.

Uluru did not disappoint!  The massive rock inspires awe from every direction.

We enjoyed the sunset, and Ed didn’t let the bugs diminish his enjoyment of a “sundowner”.

We were impressed with the Bruce Munro “Field of Light” exhibit that twinkles after sundown. Encompassing 50,000 hand-blown lights of varying colors scattered beneath the giant rock, the lights offer a riot of color. Walking through the lights is magical.

The other major landmark of this area is Kata Tjuta. These 36 massive rocks, which appear from a distance as a monolith, are amazing and change from each angle of viewing.

On another day, we watched the sunrise over Uluru. Again, it was beautiful.

On rented bikes, we took an early morning ten km spin around the giant rock.

Up close we could enjoy the textures and irregularities of the terrain.

       

Around Uluru, numerous brush fires burned right up to the roads. One road closed just after we passed. As we learned from our book on tape, “bush fires are a way of life in the Outback.”

Surprise…Car Trouble!

On our way back to Alice Springs, we enjoyed lunch at the Curtin Springs Cattle Station. The steak sandwiches were delicious and made from local beef. But, after lunch, when we returned to the LandCruiser, it wouldn’t start!  Ed tried pumping the gas, but it was a “no go”. A few Aussie men came out to push us to try to jump-start the camper but alas, this didn’t work.

We called the “free call” number for Apollo Assistance. When the telephone assistance agent called back from the Philippines to ask whether we were at Curtin Springs East or West, we were somewhat concerned as Curtin Springs Cattle Station was literally the only road stop within 100 miles in any direction.

Of all the places to break down in the Outback, this was about as good as could be. Not only could we wait in the store (with A/C), but there were rooms available in case we had to spend the night. The staff was the epitome of Aussie friendliness. “No worries, mate! You can stay here as long as you like!” We purchased extra-rich ice cream bars to quell our anxieties. We waited around three hours until a mechanic showed up with a tow truck. He was able to fiddle around with the pressure valve for the starter and, after a few tries, the camper started!  What a relief. He suggested that we fill the tank with diesel and drive through to Alice Springs without stopping.

A Shady-Looking “Resort”

100 km from Alice Springs, it began to get dark. Driving at night in the Outback is not advisable since this is when wildlife suddenly pops onto the roadway. Since we had gotten out of bed at 5:20 am to see the sunrise, we decided to stop for the night at a remote roadside resort. Although the “resort” met our needs in providing a bed with sheets, it was one of the least-atmospheric places imaginable. Our “cabin” was like a trailer in a B-grade movie. This resort could have passed for a medium security prison.

We were surprised to look at the guest book and see that the only other guest was a conservative, recently-retired ex-US congressman from Virginia! Ed commented that this was a very appropriate place for a GOP former Judiciary Committee chairman to hide out and perhaps prepare for a future residence.

Back to Alice Springs

The next morning, as Ed crossed his fingers, the camper started. We drove the final 100 km of our 1200 km trek back to Alice Springs, explored the town a bit and turned in our beloved (not) Apollo camper companion. Before we reached the rental agency, we saw this sign showing a “kindred spirit” advertising sporting goods. We did not knowingly steal their slogan when we integrated Partners In Adventure, the name of this blog, into our wedding vows a few years later.

In Alice Springs, we visited the “School of the Air”, a distance learning public school founded in 1951. The students live in the Outback — most on “cattle stations” in the middle of nowhere. Earlier students received packets every month by mail and had their lessons over the radio, using a bicycle wheel to power the service.

Now, the lessons are online. We watched three classes in action. In this one for middle school students, the teacher was discussing “self-esteem.” As we’re currently coaching in a distance learning executive education program for the Stanford Graduate School of Business, we identified with this approach.

Also, in Alice Springs we toured the historic Telegraph Station. Founded in the 1880s, this was a relay station for all telegraph communication between Adelaide and London.

Instead of taking three months for a letter to be sent from Adelaide to London by ship, communicating through the new telegraph system was almost instantaneous.

When the station needed supplies, they were delivered by camel train, the precursor to the very, very long and heavy “road trains” which today barrel down Outback roads at high speed.

Empathy for Indigenous People

Everywhere in the Northern Territories, we saw (or heard) this sentiment, which respects the ancestral lands of the Indigenous peoples.

The history between the Australians and the Indigenous population has been fraught with problems. This Telegraph Station was even used to house Indigenous children who had been taken from their parents so they would learn to be more “white”. This practice was fortunately abolished in the late 1930’s.

Additionally, in the Northwest Territory state where the Outback is located, Aboriginal drunkenness is a huge issue which other Aussies believe has resulted from genetic differences between Aboriginals and more recent immigrants to Australia. Laws regarding the distribution of alcoholic beverages draw distinctions between Aboriginal people and others. Posted regulations state when and how much alcohol Aboriginals can purchase at any given period.  This seemed strange to us as Americans.

Driving the Red Center route in March was an adventure, albeit a hot and buggy one. We met French and German tourists and saw no other Americans on this route. Uluru was incredible and worth it. However, next time, we’ll opt to fly there in the Winter or Spring!