Enchanting villages, flower-bedecked cottages, and sheep-filled pastures grace the Cotswold Hills in England. Ed and I spent several days here in June, exploring both the Northern Cotswold area and the city of Bath in the Southern Cotswolds.

Tripping from Town to Town

For the Northern Cotswolds, we based ourselves in Moreton-in-Marsh, as it is one of the few villages with a train station. We explored the region in a van with a local guide who was both knowledgeable and entertaining. We learned that sheep used to be the primary industry here, but now the region depends on tourism. It costs more to shear a sheep than the wool is worth. Too bad!

We stayed in a 300-year-old building in Moreton-in-Marsh, which was the inspiration for J.R.R. Tolkien’s Prancing Pony Inn in The Lord of the Rings.

Throughout the region, homeowners decorated their doorways with colorful wreaths and plaques. We purchased a similar plaque for “Forman House” during a visit to the UK 30 years ago, and it now graces the magnolia tree in our backyard in Santa Barbara.

Chipping Campden Oozes Charm

Chipping Campden is a charming village, rich with history. Many of the buildings date from the 14th to the 17th centuries, the height of the thriving wool trade. The Grevel House is the oldest in the area, dating back to 1380. It was initially built without a roof, and one was added during a later renovation.

We admired the thatched-roof houses and thought that this one was perfect for a Porsche commercial.

In the Cotswolds, thatching is a thriving trade, since each thatched roof must be replaced every 40 years. If you need a thatcher, you’ll have to get on their waiting list! The decorative ridge work at the peak of each roof is impressive.

Many homes were tucked away behind thick greenery and well-maintained hedges.

Snowshill Takes Center Stage

The small village of Snowshill (where our guide lived) was used as the setting for a scene from Bridget Jones’ Diary in 2001.

It has everything a village needs: a church, a pub, and a red telephone box. The flowers were well-tended and beautiful. They had to truck in snow for the Bridget Jones movie shoot, since it was filmed in late July.

Bibury Brings in the Tourists

Ever since the emperor of Japan called this village “the most beautiful village in England,” Japanese tourists and many others flock to this charming destination. They’ve even had to limit access for large tour buses because there is nowhere for them to park.

Father’s Day in Bourton-on-the-Water

Many visitors and locals relaxed along the river in this town, known as the “Venice of the Cotswolds.” Stone bridges criss-cross the River Windrush, which flows right through the town center. Since it was a beautiful Sunday, many children played in the shallow river, while their parents relaxed nearby.

It was a perfect spot for ice cream (for both two-legged and four-legged connoisseurs)!

Scenic Vistas

We took our signature yoga position on Dover’s Hill, the site of the annual “Cotswold Olimpicks,” where locals compete in traditional games like shin-kicking. Pairs of men kick each other’s shins until one falls down. The local champion, a big burly guy, has won for the last 10 years. This year, upon winning, he announced his retirement. Who knew?

Bath

Bath is a fascinating city that hosts a Roman bath on top of one of the few hot springs in England. Ancient civilizations thought this water came from the gods, and throughout history, people began to learn about the healing qualities of the water — both for bathing and for drinking. (Yuk.)  We explored the bath with a well-produced audio guide. 

We loved Bath Abbey and were awestruck by the fan-vaulted ceiling and the stained glass. Jan attended the world premiere of a cantata performed by 250 schoolchildren, who were accompanied by a professional orchestra. The Abbey was filled with proud parents and grandparents — and at least one tourist from America. The composer and librettist were present, applauded the children, and took a bow.

Informative Walking Tour

The mayor’s office provides free local walking tours led by knowledgeable retired residents. We followed in the footsteps of Jane Austen (who would have turned 250 this year) and visited the filming locations for “Bridgerton.” We skipped the detailed Bridgerton tour but caught a glimpse of one in progress, and it was clearly aimed at teenage girls!

Our lively guide told us about the city’s development, architecture, and the historical Georgian social scene. We learned that elegant ladies were carried in chairs through the streets, with young boys calling ‘chair ho’ in front of them to ask people to move aside. According to our guide, this has evolved into the current phrase, ‘cheerio’!

The pub scene was lively, and our guide directed us to one of his favorite spots.

We also loved the restaurants in Bath. On our last night, we sat outside next to a young couple and struck up a conversation. We learned that the young man, Gideon Summerfield, is a portrait artist who has worked for King Charles and will have an exhibition in Buckingham Palace next year. We might just have to return to see it. His art is terrific.

The Architecture of Bath

Bath is renowned for its harmonious architecture, which seamlessly blends Roman and Georgian styles. The city’s unique buildings are a significant reason it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The urban vistas are breathtaking.

While the street-facing facades of the buildings preserve their authenticity and uniformity, many have undergone significant interior renovations to better accommodate modern life.

While the architects and planners focused on the street-facing facades, the backs of the buildings are, to put it mildly, chaotic.

We were struck by how different the curved waterworks along the River Avon felt from everything else we saw there. The city was full of beautiful Georgian buildings lined up in perfect rows — all straight lines and symmetry. But when we reached the Pulteney Weir, suddenly there were flowing, horseshoe-shaped curves cutting through the water. It seemed as if the weir had taken Bath’s love of patterns and repetition and expressed it in a completely different way. Instead of the rigid rectangles we had been seeing everywhere, there was a sense of movement and energy that made the quiet stream an integral part of a beautiful, historic city.

On the other hand, in some squares—though we probably should call them ‘circuses’—very classic Georgian facades are arranged in curved rows, so perhaps the weir is not at all out of place!

Occasionally, a reminder that we are no longer in the Georgian era would drift into view—like this bright red hot air balloon—but it didn’t stay long.

So, ‘cheerio’ England! We adored our visit and can’t wait to return.