Our June safari ended with a bang — at Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.
To get there, we hopped on a small plane to northern Botswana, then crossed the border by cab. Right away, the contrast between the two countries was striking. In Botswana, everything just worked — smooth roads, friendly faces, a general sense of ease. Zimbabwe told a different story. The cab ride was bumpy, the seatbelts barely functioned, and there was no AC. More than that, the economic struggles were impossible to miss. Everywhere we went, people asked for tips or tried to sell us trinkets.
We checked into the famous Victoria Falls Hotel, built in 1904. Though updated over the years, it still radiates British colonial vibes — you can practically feel the “upstairs—downstairs” dynamic. Maybe that explains why every service, no matter how small, seemed to come with an unspoken request for a tip.
In 1904Today
The hotel may have been a mixed bag, but the Falls? Absolutely jaw—dropping. It’s easy to see why they’re considered one of the seven natural wonders of the world: 1,700 meters wide, 108 meters high, and roaring with power.
We followed the nature trail with its 17 viewpoints, each one revealing a new angle of the thundering cascade. Water exploded from the cliffs, sending a mist so heavy it soaked us through — no need for rain showers here!
We passed the statue of David Livingstone, who brought news of the Falls to Europe in 1855 (though, of course, local communities had known of them long before).
We’d visited the Falls before, in November 2012, and barely got wet that time. So when locals offered rain slickers this June, we smugly declined. Big mistake. June means far more water, and we were drenched. Thankfully, the hot African sun dried us out quickly.
That Was Then, This Is Now
Some things had definitely changed since our 2012 trip. The airport is far more modern now.
In 2012Today
But other parts felt like stepping right back into the past.
Zambezi River Cruise → Still the same peaceful ride, spotting animals lounging along the riverbanks
Jan in 2012Jan in 2025
Bridge to Zambia → Still buzzing with life, still filled with trucks inching through customs, and still home to bungee jumpers hurling themselves off the edge (not us, then or now!).
Jan on bridgeNote: Not us!
The Big Tree → This baobab tree is still massive, still magical, still wrapped in folklore.
Farewell for Now
And just like that, our African adventure came to a close. Victoria Falls gave us a finale that was equal parts humbling, exhilarating, and unforgettable.
“Up close and personal” barely captures our experience with the lions near Mokete camp in Botswana.
As apex predators, lions hunt not just with strength but with brainpower. We found ourselves marveling—not just at their roar—but at their strategic planning and execution.
Buffalo at Sundown
On our first outing to track the lions, we encountered this gigantic herd of over 2000 Cape Buffalo.
The buffalo were relaxed, enjoying the companionship of the cattle egrets and yellow oxpeckers who were removing ticks, fleas, and other parasites from their hides.
As we watched, two lionesses tracked this massive herd of buffalo as the sun eased into dusk.
They scouted, searching for a weak link. One lioness climbed a termite mound and roared—a call for reinforcements, a step in the plan.
The herd stayed tight. No help arrived. The lionesses withdrew—hungry, but undeterred.
Breakfast, the Next Morning
At dawn, reinforcements had arrived. This time the odds shifted.
The lions slipped through the grass, coordinated their approach, and closed in from multiple angles.
They separated the lone buffalo.
And then they attacked from multiple directions.
We learned that lions don’t break necks. They suffocate. A bite to the throat collapses the windpipe, or they clamp the muzzle shut. Once the prey fell, the pride regrouped and fed in turn, each waiting its moment. Watching them, we couldn’t help but notice the quiet efficiency of it all—like an old rhythm practiced many times before.
Strategy in the Grass
What struck us most wasn’t the violence—it was the calm calculation.
Every pride member seemed to know their role. One distracted, another flanked, a third watched the herd’s cohesion. They probed, tested, adjusted.
Evolution shaped the behavior, our guide explained, and it felt deliberate—a type of significant intelligence and problem-solving. We noted how some groups of people might benefit from that kind of instinctive and disciplined teamwork.
Teaching and Echoes
Another day, a different pride brought down a buffalo and turned the carcass into a classroom.
Two-month-old cubs were pushed forward to learn the basics of meat, teeth, and survival. They learned to taste blood by licking their mother’s face. Training in its rawest form.
This carcass was a tasty meal for the entire pride, and they took turns dining well into the night.
The hyenas waited patiently nearby for their turn at the action.
By morning, all remnants of the carcass were gone, except for some spots of blood.
Elsewhere, two lions alternated between guarding and feeding on a young elephant carcass.
Later, a pair of males roared across the river to their brothers in Namibia. The response came back in stereophonic thunder, shaking us to our cores.
Surrounded
One of the most unforgettable moments came when our safari jeep suddenly found itself surrounded by lions.
More and more lions popped up out of the grass and sauntered by our jeep. The effect swallowed us—so powerful it felt like an initiation into their clan. When they roared, the volume shook the air, yet we never felt unsafe. Instead, it was as if we’d been briefly folded into their circle.
Small Camps, Big Lessons
Our guides weren’t just drivers. They were storytellers, ecologists, teachers. They wanted us to see not just the hunt, but the system behind it: the planning, the discipline, the way each action fed into the balance of the ecosystem.
Unlike other safari regions, this one remains refreshingly uncluttered. Camps are small and remote. A few vehicles, never a traffic jam. Each sighting feels private, raw, and real.
The lions are habituated to safari vehicles. Our guides said they don’t mind our vehicles close by – the lions just assume we’re a different, non-threatening species. Some lions even like to sit in the shade supplied by the vehicle. You can see how close we are!
To sit within a pride of lions, hear them roar across borders, and watch them teach their cubs the rules of survival—this is to glimpse the circle of life as it truly unfolds.
As the sun set each evening, we returned to the comfort and safety of camp. The smell of wood smoke drifted in the air, lantern light flickered on canvas walls, and the images of the day lingered—later mixing into our dreams, but only after we had sipped our fine South African wines.
The Okavango Delta in Botswana boasts an incredible diversity of wildlife. During our two-week safari in June, we marveled at this ecosystem, with its lush waterways, vast collections of animals, active birdlife, and luxurious ‘glamping’.
The Okavango Delta is one of the largest intact inland delta systems on Earth. It’s fed by the Okavango River, which flows over a thousand kilometers from its source in Angola. Our safari camp, Jacana, is only accessible by boat during the winter, so our guides used several types of water transportation to expertly navigate the area.
We were joined in this adventure by our two friends, Todd and Barbara.
Living Their Best Life
With Botswana’s strong conservation laws and such abundant water supply the animals were thriving. We wondered – “if we were reincarnated and landed here, which animal would we be?” Our first thought was to be a hippo, as they tend to lounge around in groups and savor the sunlight. They even have little friends, yellow-billed oxpeckers, to pick bugs off their back. Nice!
But, we learned that hippos like to live in their own poop, so we nixed this idea.
Our next idea was to return as a Saddle-billed Stork, since they are beautiful and surrounded by plentiful food.
Maybe we could come back as a pair of Wattled Cranes, since they mate for life and live in a flock. (We learned that the flap below their neck, their ‘wattle’, can indicate their mood. This could help in sensing the needs of your partner.)
Or, we could come back as an African Fish Eagle, as they leisurely perch on top of a tree and peruse the land below. They’re pretty territorial and usually return to the same perch each day. This seemed pretty attractive, as they ruled over the area.
The Pel’s Fishing Owl is a rare bird that only lives in this delta. They perch in pairs high in the trees to observe the action below. Many birdwatchers visit the delta just to check this bird off their list, so it might be cool to be a bit famous.
Maybe a red lechwe? They live in large groups and thrive in the delta because their long, slender hooves help them walk or run through swampy, muddy water.
We finally decided that returning as a matriarchal elephant topped the cake. These amazing creatures live with a strong sense of community; they have a long life span (up to 74 years), retain strong memories, and take care of their offspring. Any annoying young male in the herd is sent away to a bachelor herd or to live on his own.
This matriarch ensured everyone crossed the river safely. She also kept a watchful eye out for the next feeding ground.
Botswana is home to the largest elephant population in Africa. These majestic creatures are protected by national parks and private concessions. They undertake a remarkable migration, traveling 200 kilometers up and down the river system, forming vast herds.
The Ugly Five
We had heard of the “big five” – the checklist for safari travelers – but we were unaware of the “ugly five.” This time, we had the opportunity to witness them in action: the warthog, wildebeest, hyena, vulture, and marabou stork. Although not traditionally considered beautiful, each plays a crucial role in the ecosystem.
Termite Mounds Abound
Even though they are ugly, termite mounds are considered key pillars of the ecosystem because they improve soil properties, increase nutrient availability, and facilitate water movement through the ground, all of which benefit nearby plants. Many animals inhabit abandoned termite mounds, and ancient mounds often serve as the base for majestic trees.
Survival of the Fittest
Not all life is long and peaceful, as nature exhibits a predator hierarchy. We learned that the list goes: 1. Lion, 2. Spotted hyena 3. African wild dog 4. Leopard.
The lions roam freely in this area – often in large family packs. They are strategic hunters.
Hyenas boast incredibly strong jaws, capable of even consuming bones!
We didn’t spot any wild dogs, but this leopard was diligently searching for her next meal.
Leopards conceal their prey in trees to prevent lions from stealing them. This leopard demonstrated remarkable patience as she attempted to raise her impala into the tree. After exhausting her efforts at this particular tree, she relocated to a more accessible location.
Navigating by Boat and Jeep
While we traveled by boat to our camp, we also boarded a safari jeep to explore the surrounding area, which was mostly covered in water. We discovered that our safari jeep could travel in water up to the top of the doors, as long as the tires touched the bottom. (!) Initially, this was a bit nerve-wracking, but our guide reassured us that as long as the ‘snorkel’ was out of the water, we were safe.
Flying Between the Camps
Since Botswana’s roads are not easily navigable, we flew between the safari camps in small planes operated by Wilderness Aviation. Before landing, the pilot would pass over the dirt landing strip to check for animals that might be lounging there. Once assured that the runway was clear, they would land smoothly. We were delighted to meet our first pilot, a young woman who stood at 5 feet tall. She revealed that her uncle had taught her to fly when she was a teenager. Interestingly, there are now six female pilots in the Wilderness pilot pool.
When the camp was really remote (and there was no airstrip), we flew by helicopter. This fleet of helicopters is flown by mostly expats from South Africa, New Zealand, Canada, or other countries, as there is no helicopter training school in Botswana.
Our low-altitued flight let us observe thousands of lush waterways and hundreds of elephants and giraffes wandering through the area.
Glamping at its Finest
Wilderness, a socially responsible company, offers 20 camps in the Okavango Delta. We stayed in three different camps, and all were excellent. We were pampered in luxurious tents, and our meals were served in various locations throughout the facilities.
The team also hosted sundowners with animals in beautiful locations.
Or cocktails near stunning baobab trees.
What a treat to be able to experience this fabulous habitat! Stay tuned…
Enchanting villages, flower-bedecked cottages, and sheep-filled pastures grace the Cotswold Hills in England. Ed and I spent several days here in June, exploring both the Northern Cotswold area and the city of Bath in the Southern Cotswolds.
Tripping from Town to Town
For the Northern Cotswolds, we based ourselves in Moreton-in-Marsh, as it is one of the few villages with a train station. We explored the region in a van with a local guide who was both knowledgeable and entertaining. We learned that sheep used to be the primary industry here, but now the region depends on tourism. It costs more to shear a sheep than the wool is worth. Too bad!
We stayed in a 300-year-old building in Moreton-in-Marsh, which was the inspiration for J.R.R. Tolkien’s Prancing Pony Inn in The Lord of the Rings.
Throughout the region, homeowners decorated their doorways with colorful wreaths and plaques. We purchased a similar plaque for “Forman House” during a visit to the UK 30 years ago, and it now graces the magnolia tree in our backyard in Santa Barbara.
Chipping Campden Oozes Charm
Chipping Campden is a charming village, rich with history. Many of the buildings date from the 14th to the 17th centuries, the height of the thriving wool trade. The Grevel House is the oldest in the area, dating back to 1380. It was initially built without a roof, and one was added during a later renovation.
We admired the thatched-roof houses and thought that this one was perfect for a Porsche commercial.
In the Cotswolds, thatching is a thriving trade, since each thatched roof must be replaced every 40 years. If you need a thatcher, you’ll have to get on their waiting list! The decorative ridge work at the peak of each roof is impressive.
Many homes were tucked away behind thick greenery and well-maintained hedges.
Snowshill Takes Center Stage
The small village of Snowshill (where our guide lived) was used as the setting for a scene from Bridget Jones’ Diary in 2001.
It has everything a village needs: a church, a pub, and a red telephone box. The flowers were well-tended and beautiful. They had to truck in snow for the Bridget Jones movie shoot, since it was filmed in late July.
Bibury Brings in the Tourists
Ever since the emperor of Japan called this village “the most beautiful village in England,” Japanese tourists and many others flock to this charming destination. They’ve even had to limit access for large tour buses because there is nowhere for them to park.
Father’s Day in Bourton-on-the-Water
Many visitors and locals relaxed along the river in this town, known as the “Venice of the Cotswolds.” Stone bridges criss-cross the River Windrush, which flows right through the town center. Since it was a beautiful Sunday, many children played in the shallow river, while their parents relaxed nearby.
It was a perfect spot for ice cream (for both two-legged and four-legged connoisseurs)!
Scenic Vistas
We took our signature yoga position on Dover’s Hill, the site of the annual “Cotswold Olimpicks,” where locals compete in traditional games like shin-kicking. Pairs of men kick each other’s shins until one falls down. The local champion, a big burly guy, has won for the last 10 years. This year, upon winning, he announced his retirement. Who knew?
Bath
Bath is a fascinating city that hosts a Roman bath on top of one of the few hot springs in England. Ancient civilizations thought this water came from the gods, and throughout history, people began to learn about the healing qualities of the water — both for bathing and for drinking. (Yuk.) We explored the bath with a well-produced audio guide.
We loved Bath Abbey and were awestruck by the fan-vaulted ceiling and the stained glass. Jan attended the world premiere of a cantata performed by 250 schoolchildren, who were accompanied by a professional orchestra. The Abbey was filled with proud parents and grandparents — and at least one tourist from America. The composer and librettist were present, applauded the children, and took a bow.
Informative Walking Tour
The mayor’s office provides free local walking tours led by knowledgeable retired residents. We followed in the footsteps of Jane Austen (who would have turned 250 this year) and visited the filming locations for “Bridgerton.” We skipped the detailed Bridgerton tour but caught a glimpse of one in progress, and it was clearly aimed at teenage girls!
Our lively guide told us about the city’s development, architecture, and the historical Georgian social scene. We learned that elegant ladies were carried in chairs through the streets, with young boys calling ‘chair ho’ in front of them to ask people to move aside. According to our guide, this has evolved into the current phrase, ‘cheerio’!
The pub scene was lively, and our guide directed us to one of his favorite spots.
We also loved the restaurants in Bath. On our last night, we sat outside next to a young couple and struck up a conversation. We learned that the young man, Gideon Summerfield, is a portrait artist who has worked for King Charles and will have an exhibition in Buckingham Palace next year. We might just have to return to see it. His art is terrific.
The Architecture of Bath
Bath is renowned for its harmonious architecture, which seamlessly blends Roman and Georgian styles. The city’s unique buildings are a significant reason it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The urban vistas are breathtaking.
While the street-facing facades of the buildings preserve their authenticity and uniformity, many have undergone significant interior renovations to better accommodate modern life.
While the architects and planners focused on the street-facing facades, the backs of the buildings are, to put it mildly, chaotic.
We were struck by how different the curved waterworks along the River Avon felt from everything else we saw there. The city was full of beautiful Georgian buildings lined up in perfect rows — all straight lines and symmetry. But when we reached the Pulteney Weir, suddenly there were flowing, horseshoe-shaped curves cutting through the water. It seemed as if the weir had taken Bath’s love of patterns and repetition and expressed it in a completely different way. Instead of the rigid rectangles we had been seeing everywhere, there was a sense of movement and energy that made the quiet stream an integral part of a beautiful, historic city.
On the other hand, in some squares—though we probably should call them ‘circuses’—very classic Georgian facades are arranged in curved rows, so perhaps the weir is not at all out of place!
Occasionally, a reminder that we are no longer in the Georgian era would drift into view—like this bright red hot air balloon—but it didn’t stay long.
So, ‘cheerio’ England! We adored our visit and can’t wait to return.
In March, Ed and I spent six magical days in Mexico City. A highlight was Lucha Libre – a uniquely Mexican wrestling show featuring acrobatic men in brightly colored masks and very small Speedo-like briefs.
It was a choreographed spectacle featuring good vs. evil-–the team of good guys wore brightly colored outfits with glitter and sequins, while the bad guys wore black leather and extreme facial hair.
The auditorium was packed with 8,000 fans – who screamed in unison — “Yea!” for the good guys and “Booo!” for the evil ones. Reminiscent of Cirque du Soleil, the wrestlers flew through the air, flipped each other so they landed on their back with a thud, and played to the audience.
Before the show, we attended an “Air BnB Experience” orientation session at a local taqueria, where a devoted fan explained Lucha Libre to us and 15 other guests. Also attending were 7 gals from a bachelorette party and two families with kids. We learned that each wrestler spent at least three years studying the art of this type of wrestling before their first performance. The most experienced men wrestled as their full time job, while less experienced men held day jobs and Lucha Libre is a side gig.
Museums Beckon
In addition to wrestling, the city boasts fabulous museums. The Museo Nacional de Antropología, which just celebrated its 60th birthday, displays an enormous collection of fabulous archeological sculptures and artifacts. We said hello to its most famous exhibit, the Aztec Sun Stone.
Jan remembers seeing this in 1964, the year the museum opened. Her father purchased a replica from a local tourist shop and prominently displayed it in Jan’s childhood home.
Other ancient sculptures were also incredible.
We saw a replica of Montezuma’s Headdress (the original is in Vienna), and wondered, “Who wore it best?”
A Visit to Frida’s House
The Frida Kahlo museum known as “Casa Azul” was very moving. Frida was born in this house, later lived here with Diego Rivera, and eventually died here.
The house was filled with a surprisingly large number of original paintings, her wheelchairs, clothing, orthopedic paraphernalia and painting supplies. It was very well curated and preserved.
Although timed tickets were usually required to be purchased in advance, we got in right away since we had cash for our entry tickets. Nice!
Thank You, Carlos Slim
The Museo Souyma was a beautiful surprise. Not only is it an architectural masterpiece, it is free, due to the generosity of Carlos Slim, a very, very wealthy Mexican businessman. He acquired all of the art and created this musuem in honor of his late wife.
We were blown away by the architecture and the extent of the collection, including several Monet, Degas, and Van Gogh paintings we had never seen before and numerous Rodin sculptures. It is truly a gift to the citizens of Mexico City.
Ruins Abound
We took a morning tour to Teotihuacán, a major archeological site 25 miles Northeast of the city. Built starting in 100 BCE, it was a major area of commerce, and the largest city in the Americas before it collapsed around 550 CE. It’s well known for the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon.
Climbing the pyramids is not for the faint-hearted. Early builders did not believe in handrails, so Ed and I had to tread carefully on the way up and down! This type of climbing was much easier when we visited the ruins at Tikal in Guatemala in 1979–aging is not for sissies!
On top of one pyramid, we met a new friend who ‘assumed the position’ with us.
Delicious Dining
Mexico City is known as a food ‘Mecca’. Our daughter’s friend, a long time resident of the City, supplied a list of restaurants. We followed the list with mouth watering anticipation and it did not disappoint! We loved Contramar, a hip scene with fresh. exquisite seafood.
The rooftop bar at Balmori was scenic and yummy.
We were underwhelmed by our 2 star Michelin experience at Pujol, and preferred the food on the “Secret Food Tour.” Here, we tried various versions of mole enchiladas, tacos al pastor, churros, baked goods, and gourmet candies.
Beautiful Trees and Medians
The greenery surrounding the Mexico City boulevards was spectacular. The Jacaranda trees were in full bloom and the medians were lush with green shrubs and flowers.
Cafe culture is everywhere. We were never far from an inviting sidewalk cafe with delicious coffee drinks, cocktails, and treats.
Google maps was helpful for walking directions. And, Ed asked ChatGPT to design some walking tours for us in neighborhoods with interesting architecture. Who needs a guidebook, with this in your pocket?
We loved our 6 days in Mexico City and hope to return. We spent most of our time in the Condesa, Roma Norte, Polanco, Coyoacán, and Centro Historico districs. All were interesting. We were pleasantly surprised by how easy it was to get around as Uber was cheap, quick and safe. Our boutique hotel was charming and very centrally located. We could have spent many more weeks there, sampling additional cuisine, visiting more museums and enjoying the overall ambiance. We only touched the surface of this World Class City. Gracias Ciudad de México!
