Category Archives: Jan Swanberg

Gorillas in Our Midst

While the ladies in Walakuba were making our beads, we took a side trip to Rwanda to experience this country and go trekking to see the chimpanzees and mountain gorillas.  Our flight took us  to Kigali, where we were met by our guide, Enos. Enos was very knowledgable about Rwandan (and Ugandan) history. Originally from Uganda, he speaks many native languages, and added a lot of “local color” to our trip.

Our first trek to see the chimpanzees was one of the hardest hikes we had ever taken!  We went up and down the mountains (no paths of course … just  guide with a machete…)!  We trekked for about four hours and only had a few glimpses of the chimps.  They were very speedy at moving though the jungle — and they seemed to want to avoid us!  One tracker would have a sighting of the chimp family and would radio our guide.  We would hustle (the best we could) to that spot only to find that the chimps had moved!  Oh well.  We really gained an appreciation for how well the chimps are acclimated to this type of jungle!

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Rwanda offers some very sobering memorials to the genocide of 1994.  We were there during the 20th anniversary of this mass slaughter.  And, instead of sweeping this history under the carpet, the Rwandans have adopted a “never again” approach to the telling of the story.  Many school children were visiting the memorials and there were billboards everywhere reminding people to remember the horror of those days.

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The highlight of the visit to Rwanda was our gorilla trek.  We started out early in the morning and were joined by our other trekkers at a very organized trail head. Enos relayed our previous chimp experience, and lobbied for a trek to a gorilla family who was relatively close by!  This was a good thing, as we were still a bit sore from the chimp adventure.

We hiked for several hours, and arrived in this clearing where a gorilla family was enjoying the jungle. We saw the silver back, several moms, a baby, and many young gorillas playing in the trees.  It was an exhilarating experience to be able to witness their life in the wild.  Even though the trek is quite pricey, the funds go to conservation of this amazing species.

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This hour was one of the most memorable hours of our life. Being “up close and personal” was amazing.

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We continued on our journey and ended up back in Uganda, for another gorilla trek.  Our hotel near the impenetrable forest was beautiful, and perched high on a hill. (This was a fantasy hotel built by a German woman who had been inspired by the location.)

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We were very impressed by the quality of roads and beauty of Rwanda.  Being here with a terrific guide was a treat.

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We even taught Enos a new skill!

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Sourcing Paper Bead Jewelry in Uganda

Flying from Accra to Kampala, we traveled through … Dubai!

Our options for this segment were not ideal, since there are no direct flights. The four options were:  spending the night in the Nairobi airport for a 4 am departure (hmm… not so good); spending the night in the Lagos airport (ugh!); traveling through Addis Ababa (Ethiopia) with a long middle of the night layover (again… not so attractive); or flying a bit further on Emirates with a three hour 6 – 9 am stop in Dubai. As all the choices were the same price, we opted for the Dubai route.

When we landed in Kampala, we were met by a driver who took us to Jinja, a bustling town on Lake Victoria. This is where the Nile River starts its long journey. We checked into our peaceful guesthouse and crashed. Continue reading

Visiting Suppliers in Africa. First Stop: Ghana!

To make sure our jewelry is being made to the highest standards, in the right colors, and in fair-wage working environments, we traveled to Africa to visit our suppliers in Ghana and Uganda.

Landing in the Accra airport was like coming home. Gone were the butterflies and trepidation we felt when arriving for the first time in 2013.

This time, we knew the drill:

  1. Stand close to the door of the bus from the plane; get off quickly to be near the front of the immigration line.
  2. Wave our proof of yellow fever vaccinations in front of the Health Officer.
  3. Proceed slowly in the queue to get our passports stamped.
  4. Show our Resident Permits.
  5. Stamp, stamp. Stamp, stamp. Stamp, stamp.

Tony, our favorite driver, greeted us with a smile, and took us to 5A, our old apartment. Continue reading

Whirlwind US Research Trip

Sorry for the lapse in blog posts!  In the last few months we’ve been “crazy busy” in a good way. We’ve been working in Santiago and have been on the road.

As part of our effort to understand customer needs and wants, we took a three-week trip to the US in late May/early June.  We visited Stanford, Harvard, University of Texas, Texas A&M, and Baylor and interviewed potential customers to find out their views about our RahRah4Good jewelry.

As much as this might sound like a boondoggle, it was real work!  We were constantly showing our jewelry and soliciting feedback. Continue reading

Rah Rah For Progress!

Slowly but surely, we are making progress on our social enterprise, RahRah4Good.

Our accomplishments to date include:

  • Analyzed market size and segmentation. (We are MBAs, after all!) Sport fan apparel and accessories is a $20B per year global market, 75% in the US and mostly involving university teams. We also have looked at the established fan jewelry products. We analyzed the relative size of team fan bases and also gained an understanding of the range of team colors and color combinations.

  • Researched numerous jewelry designs with the Startup Chile entrepreneurs.  It was interesting to note the difference in preferences across demographics.  We narrowed our offerings based on the feedback.

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  • Identified five jewelry workshops in Uganda and Ghana as potential sourcing partners. This has involved a lot of emails, Skype chats and video conferences. All these producers employ local women to make jewelry, seem capable of scaling production and are anxious to export.

  • Selected the test markets for our original production runs. We’ve looked at the sizes of the fan bases and assortment of color schemes of various universities in the US, and have selected four colleges — Stanford, Harvard, University of Texas and Texas A&M as our test markets. (Distribution contacts for any of these universities are welcome!)

  • Specified the details for the samples to be produced by the African sources. This has included a lot of photos and bead-by-bead specifications to insure uniformity. We’ve put in orders for samples with all the workshops and expect delivery any day. Part of what we are trying to figure out is a style of communication that makes commitments clear.

  • Planned a trip to the four US universities to show samples and refine potential distribution strategies. We’re scheduled to travel April 22 – May 11. At present we are planning marketing tests at 3-4 US campuses in the fall involving college bookstores, social media/ecommerce and partnerships with on-campus organizations.

Continue reading

Settling in Santiago

Hola Blog Readers! Yes, you read it correctly. We are no longer in West Africa, but have moved to Santiago Chile. Quite a change, but it’s exciting.

Why Santiago? While in Ghana, we applied and were selected to be a part of the Startup>Chile business incubator. Our application (for our concept-stage social enterprise) was one of 1500 applications from around the world. 100 were selected.

Startup Chile is a Chilean government program designed to encourage and support entrepreneurship. The government gives each company a $40,000 grant to work on their business, as long as the entrepreneurs live in Chile for a six-month period. We are part of “Generation 9”; 800 other companies have participated in the program over the past three years.

Continue reading

Nigerian Wedding Spectacle

The groom-to-be told us, “Once you’ve experienced a Nigerian wedding, you’ll never be the same!”. We gladly report that he was correct.

The wedding of Jumoke and Gbolahan was a two-day extravaganza. On Thursday there was the traditional wedding/engagement ceremony for 600. On Saturday, the celebration continued with a church wedding (aka “the white wedding”) and a reception for over 1,000, complete with gifts for the guests!  We were so lucky to be able to experience this series of events. Apparently, the size and scope of this wedding celebration was not out of the norm for Nigeria, even though in our narrow experience, this was a spectacular sequence of events, as recorded by Ed in this gallery.

Traditional Wedding (or Engagement Ceremony)

The traditional wedding was held at Lagos City Hall. Our invitation said 12:00 pm. So, we rushed to arrive at 11:55 (in a rainstorm) only to find that the main hall was just getting set up. The beefy, armed bouncers looked at us warily. We didn’t look like typical invitees. They asked to see the invitation. We mentioned the groom’s first name, but they stared at us blankly. When we finally entered the room, we encountered a table full of ladies in blue headdresses (called “gele”) and gold gowns.  I showed them the groom’s name on my iPhone, and asked if we were in the right place. They beamed…. “YES,  YOU’RE WELCOME!”  So, we entered and took a seat at a table near them in the back of the room. Continue reading

We Get Hit by a Scam Artist

We all know the pitfalls of Nigerian scam artists who prey via email.  But now we know that there are other methods as well. We learned the hard way.

Yesterday, while riding in the car, I received a call on my Nigerian cell phone with a connection that wasn’t very good.  The speaker was clearly in a panic.  I probed, “Is this Majek?” … (the name of one of my Nigerian clients). The voice said: “Yes. I am in a terrible situation. I’ve been in a car accident and I need to make a payment to the police.  You’re the only one who can help me out.”

“Can you purchase a MTN (Phone) scratch off card for 3,000 Nigerian Naira (NGN)  and send the scratch off number to me?”  (This scratch off number can be turned into untraceable cash though MTN money.)  This sounded like a legitimate request, and I couldn’t really distinguish Majek’s voice over the scratchy mobile phone line, so, I had the driver stop and I purchased 3,000 NGN worth of credit. Ed quickly scratch off to reveal the code and I texted it to the number I had for Majek.  The caller called back and said that his other phone was in his car that had had been locked by the police.  So, he requested that I read the scratch-off numbers over the phone to him.  I obliged. Total so far: 3,000 NGN ($19).  One part of me felt glad that I could help out my client, and was flattered that he would come to me when he was in trouble.

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Then he called back, stating that 3,000 wasn’t enough – he needed 3,000 more, since the police was requesting an additional “fee” to release him.  So, I had the driver stop at a different MTN card seller and purchased more cards.  In five minutes he called back to get the scratch-off numbers.  Once again, I obliged.  Ed waved the cash outside of the car window, purchased the cards, and quickly scratched off the numbers. Total so far: 6,000 NGN ($38).

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Was this enough?  Alas, no.  He called back again to say the police was requesting an additional 3,000 NGN and I was the only one who could help him.  We found another vendor, purchased the cards, scratched off the numbers and read him the numbers. Total so far: 9,000 NGN ($57).

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Iteration Four.  We did it again!  This time the accident victim was going to die if he didn’t pay for the hospital. Total so far: 12,000 NGN ($75).

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Then, he called back and requested more funds for more hospital bills for the person in the accident. “I am afraid he might die….”, he said.  Finally fed up, I said “That’s all I can do.  Why don’t you call someone else.  I am going to the hotel. And I won’t be near any scratch off card salespeople.  Bye!”  I left the car and went in to the hotel.

All this time, I never suspected a thing.  Then, the next morning, the phone rang again.  I assumed it was Majek who wanted to make a plan to repay me.  But, no … he had a request for an additional 4,500 NGN  saying “the person will definitely die if you don’t loan me the money. I can’t call anyone else about this.”   I said, “Sorry Majek, I have no way of getting  any cards right now.  Please call someone else. “ After three more calls, he finally stopped calling.

Then, I began to feel a bit stupid.  If the person in the accident hadn’t died yesterday, why was he about to die today?  Was this really Majek?  Had I been duped?

After breakfast, I emailed Majek to ask him whether he had been asking him for money.  Of course, he said “no”, and was appalled that a fellow Nigerian had been scamming me this way.  He wrote, “It’s really unfortunate. How could I have been asking you to send recharge cards to bail me out of police or hospital? It’s very bad. I never knew anything about it. Sorry that’s Naija for you”. (He also later confirmed that if he needed money, he could ask other people, and he would never ask me!)

Writing this account makes me sound very gullible and stupid.  But at the time, neither Ed nor I suspected a thing!  The driver didn’t say anything either.  The voice on the phone was very convincing when he was conveying his panic and desperation.  Now thinking back, I should have been more wary …. But now I know!

So, if you ever need money from me, you’ll have to ask in person so I can verify the request!  TIA.

Tamale and Mole – Visiting Ghana’s Northern Region

We spent a delightful weekend in the North of Ghana, touring Mole National Park, the largest wildlife preserve in Ghana, and nearby villages. We traveled with our fellow coach, Bill Scull.

Our morning started very early as we had a 6 am flight to Tamale. At the Accra airport, men and women in long white robes, headscarves and dresses surrounded us. We learned these were pious Muslims, returning from the Hajj in Mecca.  They filled about half of the plane. The Imam prayed thanks to Allah when we landed and throngs from the community who were welcoming them home met the passengers. They were treated like VIPs – even riding in a motorcade to their mosque or village.

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500 Ghanaians make the Hajj pilgrimage each year. After returning, they are known by new names – either “Alhaja” for men, or “Hajia” for women. This signifies “Been to Mecca” and is a lifelong honorarium!

Moses, our driver and guide for the weekend, met us at the airport. He is a delightful 26-year-old who grew up as the son of a park ranger. So, he is beloved by the community and is a local as they come!

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In the park, we rode on the top of his 35-year-old Nissan Patrol, named “Struggle Continuously”. The car performed very well over the rough roads and rutted paths.

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Ed posed as “King of the World” (but he didn’t ride like this when we were moving!)

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Bill found the perch on the roof invaluable for photography.

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We saw lots of animals, including the kob, waterbuck, bushbuck, baboon, and warthog, among others.

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We were expertly guided by Kamale, a wise ranger who identified many species of birds during our rides and safari walks.

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We tried to find an elephant, since we heard there are 400 living in the park, but apparently they were feeling shy. The closest we got to an elephant was a sighting of day-old poop and footprints.

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We also visited several Gonja villages and were amazed how hard the women were working. They were cooking, caring for children, and grinding flour.

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This chief’s wife was drying cassava on the roof of their home, accessed by a narrow ladder.

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The Gonja villages are built with traditional mud architecture. Each family has their own compound and some men have multiple wives.

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The Chief in each village welcomed us and we expressed our appreciation for the chance to visit by offering a small contribution to their village fund.

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We also visited the Larabanga mosque – the oldest mosque in West Africa – dating from 1421.

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On the way back to the airport, we had a flat tire, which was promptly fixed by a “vulcanizer” for $1.00!

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Most of the locals in the Northern Region live on $1 – $1.50 per day. In the UN Millennial report , they would fall into the category “BOP” – Bottom of the Pyramid.

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The people of this area were very gracious and welcoming and we were very glad to experience this slice of Ghanaian life, which is completely different from our urban life in Accra. For more photos, check out Ed’s gallery.

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