Botswana Archives - Partners in Adventure

The Okavango Delta in Botswana boasts an incredible diversity of wildlife. During our two-week safari in June, we marveled at this ecosystem, with its lush waterways, vast collections of animals, active birdlife, and luxurious ‘glamping’.

The Okavango Delta is one of the largest intact inland delta systems on Earth. It’s fed by the Okavango River, which flows over a thousand kilometers from its source in Angola. Our safari camp, Jacana, is only accessible by boat during the winter, so our guides used several types of water transportation to expertly navigate the area.

We were joined in this adventure by our two friends, Todd and Barbara.

Living Their Best Life

With Botswana’s strong conservation laws and such abundant water supply the animals were thriving. We wondered – “if we were reincarnated and landed here, which animal would we be?” Our first thought was to be a hippo, as they tend to lounge around in groups and savor the sunlight. They even have little friends, yellow-billed oxpeckers, to pick bugs off their back. Nice!

But, we learned that hippos like to live in their own poop, so we nixed this idea.

Our next idea was to return as a Saddle-billed Stork, since they are beautiful and surrounded by plentiful food.

Maybe we could come back as a pair of Wattled Cranes, since they mate for life and live in a flock. (We learned that the flap below their neck, their ‘wattle’, can indicate their mood. This could help in sensing the needs of your partner.)

Or, we could come back as an African Fish Eagle, as they leisurely perch on top of a tree and peruse the land below. They’re pretty territorial and usually return to the same perch each day. This seemed pretty attractive, as they ruled over the area.

The Pel’s Fishing Owl is a rare bird that only lives in this delta. They perch in pairs high in the trees to observe the action below. Many birdwatchers visit the delta just to check this bird off their list, so it might be cool to be a bit famous.

Maybe a red lechwe? They live in large groups and thrive in the delta because their long, slender hooves help them walk or run through swampy, muddy water.

We finally decided that returning as a matriarchal elephant topped the cake. These amazing creatures live with a strong sense of community; they have a long life span (up to 74 years), retain strong memories, and take care of their offspring. Any annoying young male in the herd is sent away to a bachelor herd or to live on his own.

This matriarch ensured everyone crossed the river safely. She also kept a watchful eye out for the next feeding ground.

Botswana is home to the largest elephant population in Africa. These majestic creatures are protected by national parks and private concessions. They undertake a remarkable migration, traveling 200 kilometers up and down the river system, forming vast herds.

The Ugly Five

We had heard of the “big five” – the checklist for safari travelers – but we were unaware of the “ugly five.” This time, we had the opportunity to witness them in action: the warthog, wildebeest, hyena, vulture, and marabou stork. Although not traditionally considered beautiful, each plays a crucial role in the ecosystem.

Termite Mounds Abound

Even though they are ugly, termite mounds are considered key pillars of the ecosystem because they improve soil properties, increase nutrient availability, and facilitate water movement through the ground, all of which benefit nearby plants. Many animals inhabit abandoned termite mounds, and ancient mounds often serve as the base for majestic trees.

Survival of the Fittest

Not all life is long and peaceful, as nature exhibits a predator hierarchy. We learned that the list goes: 1. Lion, 2. Spotted hyena 3. African wild dog 4. Leopard.

The lions roam freely in this area – often in large family packs. They are strategic hunters.

Hyenas boast incredibly strong jaws, capable of even consuming bones!

We didn’t spot any wild dogs, but this leopard was diligently searching for her next meal.

Leopards conceal their prey in trees to prevent lions from stealing them. This leopard demonstrated remarkable patience as she attempted to raise her impala into the tree. After exhausting her efforts at this particular tree, she relocated to a more accessible location.

Navigating by Boat and Jeep

While we traveled by boat to our camp, we also boarded a safari jeep to explore the surrounding area, which was mostly covered in water. We discovered that our safari jeep could travel in water up to the top of the doors, as long as the tires touched the bottom. (!) Initially, this was a bit nerve-wracking, but our guide reassured us that as long as the ‘snorkel’ was out of the water, we were safe.

Flying Between the Camps

Since Botswana’s roads are not easily navigable, we flew between the safari camps in small planes operated by Wilderness Aviation. Before landing, the pilot would pass over the dirt landing strip to check for animals that might be lounging there. Once assured that the runway was clear, they would land smoothly. We were delighted to meet our first pilot, a young woman who stood at 5 feet tall. She revealed that her uncle had taught her to fly when she was a teenager. Interestingly, there are now six female pilots in the Wilderness pilot pool.

When the camp was really remote (and there was no airstrip), we flew by helicopter. This fleet of helicopters is flown by mostly expats from South Africa, New Zealand, Canada, or other countries, as there is no helicopter training school in Botswana.

Our low-altitued flight let us observe thousands of lush waterways and hundreds of elephants and giraffes wandering through the area.

Glamping at its Finest

Wilderness, a socially responsible company, offers 20 camps in the Okavango Delta. We stayed in three different camps, and all were excellent. We were pampered in luxurious tents, and our meals were served in various locations throughout the facilities.