Author Archives: Jan

On Two Wheels in Rural Idaho

Usually, we post about adventures abroad. Over the last few days, Ed and I have experienced interesting domestic travel — riding the 84-mile Weiser River Trail from New Meadow, Idaho to Weiser, Idaho. Never mind that we’d never heard of either town. We learned about this adventure during a moonlight dinner at Galena Lodge last winter when we sat next to a couple who had ridden this trail. It sounded cool, so we put it on our to do list

An Ambitious Mountain Bike Ride

We rode the trail over a two-day period with an overnight stop. Jan had not traveled on her bike with her overnight necessities on board since 1977 when she rode across Europe with Barb Knopes, her dear friend and college roommate. Although Ed had ridden RAGBRAI across Iowa with Jan eight times, he had never “lugged” his gear. Jan retrofitted an old bike pack for her mountain bike and Ed purchased a small pack for his mountain bike. We had our bikes tuned up and purchased a few accessories, including cool “mountain bike” shirts (au revoir spandex jerseys) from a “Club Ride”, a local Ketchum company.

While researching the trip, we noted the geography. The abandoned rail right of way had been transformed to a gravel bike path with 1,855 feet in altitude change from north to south. (While the data seemed important it barely mattered. Over 84 miles, this means that you descend 240 feet per mile with an average grade of about 5%–later we were told is that 5% overall grade is typical for old railroad lines.)

We drove four hours from Ketchum to Weiser, ID (population 5,000) and checked into the modest State Street Motel.

The room was spacious and clean– better than it looked from the outside. Later, we had dinner at Judy’s Weiser In–yes, that is how it is spelled–and enjoyed it. We dined on steak with mushrooms and splurged for the Ravenswood Zinfandel. The price was right!

Day 1: New Meadow to Cambridge

On Thursday morning, we had breakfast at a local diner, and at 8:30 am, our pre-arranged driver, Ron, picked us up to transport us to the top of the trail at New Meadow. Ron drove us in an immaculate Suburban, and we were somewhat surprised to learn that he was a retired Boeing delivery engineering manager from Seattle. He currently lives in Council Idaho (population 900) and has invested in several local businesses around town, including an RV Park.

He dropped us off at the trailhead, and we were off! The Weiser River Trail (WRT) opened in 1998 after the Union Pacific Railroad retired the freight line and conveyed ownership of the rail-bed to a non-profit, Friends of the Weiser River Trail. It’s Idaho’s longest rail-trail.

We knew we were in for a challenge when we saw our first mileage marker, which was artistically made from railroad spikes. Yikes, we had only gone a few miles. 81 to go!

The first 20 miles were glorious. We traveled mostly downhill through a forest of Ponderosa Pine and Douglas Fir. The trail surface ranged from gravel to lush loam with pine needles. We crossed some of the 58 trestles along the trail.

Observing Damage from Flooding

We were warned in advance that two of the trestles were out of commission, as they had been washed away by recent flooding. This one had seen better days! Ron estimated that repair will cost $30K. He said that the Friends of the Trail will be seeking grants to help pay for the repair. Luckily, signs marked the trail detours.

In Council, we learned more about the history of the trail and saw pictures of the train that carried lumber on the tracks from the early 1900s.

Over the two days, we saw only three people riding on the trail. One was a local who started at the same time as we did. He whooshed by us on the only moderately technical segment of the trail–a downhill gravel switchback which Ron had warned us about. The other two riders were a couple from Spokane who liked riding the trail so much that they rode North to South and then turned around and rode South to North! We saw them as they were riding their return leg. They snapped our picture.

Adventures in a Double Wide!

Halfway down the trail, we stayed at the Mundo HotSprings, where we had reserved the “Pool House”. It turned out to be a double-wide mobile home overlooking a pool filled with water from the local hot spring.

The best part about the Pool House was that we could use the pool after all the other day guests had left. So, around 9 pm, we soaked in the pool, restoring our biking muscles and watching the stars appear. The bed was comfy and we slept soundly.

Day 2: Riding From Cambridge to Weiser

In the morning, we biked one mile to Cambridge (population 300)–a one STOP-sign town and enjoyed a delightful breakfast. This was our second breakfast for two for under $20 including tip. The scene in Cambridge–and many scenes during the trip–reminded us of small-town Iowa, where all the elderly locals come in for coffee at the local diner.

We looked a little out of place in our bike helmets, and an older resident asked, “Where are you from?” When we said, “California”, he asked, “How are you going to get back there?” We assured him that we weren’t planning on riding all the way back, given that we had only two days worth of supplies on our bikes.

After Cambridge, we stopped in Midvale. It took us a few moments to realize that Midvale stood for Midvalley. Duh! There was a charming general store where we bought food for lunch. The American Legion Hall was quaint and colorful.

No Cell Coverage and No Water

During the next stretch, we encountered a 20-mile pristine trail that followed the Weiser River. We were warned in advance that we’d be in the wilderness in the high desert canyon. Because of the long stretches of wilderness, we needed to be self sufficient. Ed had a flat tire and we nearly ran out of water in one stretch, despite bringing Camelbacks and supplemental water bottles.

We knew we were making progress when the sign post indicated that we only had 37 miles to go.

Along the trail, we encountered a variety of obstructions — bear scat, horse poop, cow patties, a fallen tree, boulders, and an animal skeleton and lots of farm gates.

The surface ranged from sand to rock to gravel to black dirt to pine needles. We had to keep an eye out for these variations. Before we started, a trail veteran told us that 42 miles of gravel riding on a mountain bike is a lot to do in a day. Given our experience riding road bike centuries, etc., we didn’t completely internalize this advice. After riding the Weiser River Trail, we have to agree–40 miles on a nearly flat gravel path on a heavy mountain bike with gear requires a lot of hard pedaling; the rough surface impedes coasting or freewheeling. Continuous pedaling is essential, especially into the wind which blew in our faces during most of our ride. We were happy to take a break on the frequent benches on the trail.

The Weiser River Trail goes through a valley that’s a haven for wildlife. We saw Snowy Egrets, Idaho Cliff Swallows, and other birds. Sometimes, the sounds of our bike tires on the gravel path would disturb a covey of quail, and they would all fly out of a bush. Even the grazing cows seemed to notice us, as they would turn their heads and look at us as we rode by. We thought they might be counting the riders. We encountered a few horses lingering along the trail. Also, we heard there may be (friendly) bears, but we didn’t see any.

At the 80th mile, we saw that the trail paralleled the road. So, we opted for the smooth surface of the road that headed towards Weiser.

We rode back to the motel where our car was parked. Our odometer registered that we had logged 86.42 miles in the saddle.

The Weiser River Trail is a great ride. We were impressed with the maintenance of the trial — especially since it’s done by volunteers. We appreciated all the efforts of the Friends of the Weiser Ri ver Trail and have now become members. The signs were excellent and everyone we encountered was friendly and hospitable. The Fall weather was glorious. We felt fortunate to be able to discover and explore this part of rural Idaho

On the way back to Ketchum, we spent two nights in McCall, ID. The scenery around Payette Lake was beautiful. And, we enjoyed being off the saddle!

If you want to ride the Weiser River Trail (or go to McCall) , let us know, and we can provide more details.

Livin’ Like a Local in Tuscany

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In late May, Ed and I spent a magical week in a small village in Eastern Tuscany. No guidebooks or Trip Advisor. No “must see” tourist attractions. Instead, we savored livin’ like a local while we visited our friends Nancy and John — expats from Berkeley who have lived in a small Tuscan town since 2010. Ed worked with Nancy at Apple and was delighted to renew their friendship.

Magical Meals

Nancy chronicles her Italian life on her blog, Itch.world. On this site, she provides a weekly “3-minute escape to Italy.” (Highly recommended!) With her vast knowledge of the local area, she was able to curate fantastic local meals for us.

We enjoyed the perfectly grilled steak and Tuscan red wine in the small village of Montrechi

And, an “al fresco” lunch at an agriturismo inn. The proprietors, a brother and sister duo, opened the restaurant just for us.

Agriturismo restaurant in Eastern Tuscany

On Nancy’s recommendation, we made a reservation for dinner at a communal table at Le Bindi in another small village. This restaurant has one seating for 21 people at 8:30 pm. All the other guests were Italians, mostly in their 30’s. Most did not speak English. The one gal who did speak English, probed, “How did you find this place?” This meal included over 20 courses over three hours and cost only 25 Euros. A bargain!

Following a Favorite Son

When Nancy arrived in this area of Tuscany, she overheard a question, “Did you find the PDF?” Since she had worked in Silicon Valley, Nancy thought the people were talking about a computer file. But, no … instead, “PDF” is an affectionate term for Piero della Francesca, a baroque artist who was born in this area in 1416. (!) Since we were now pretending to be locals, we decided to pay homage to him by visiting his art.

The road signs clearly show where his paintings are displayed.

In Monterchi, the Madonna del Parto is displayed in its own museum, which is an old school house owned by the town. (This is the only museum we’ve ever been to with only one piece of art.) The museum also plays a 12 minute video which describes the advanced geometry and symmetry used by “PDF” in 1460 when he painted this masterpiece.

In the painting, Mary is obviously pregnant, which apparently was quite controversial at the time of its origin. According to a New York Times article, the town (which claims to own the painting) will not loan it out for exhibits at other museums around the world, as they are afraid they won’t get it back.
Other PDF masterpieces, also called “the Pieros”, are housed in nearby villages: In San Sansepolcro, you can pay homage to The Resurrection.

Fresco in San Sansepolcro, Eastern Tuscany

And in Arezzo, his intricate masterpieces adorn the walls and ceiling of the church of St Francis .

Piero della Francesca’s work is awe-inspiring, and definitely worth visiting. This area is also known as “Terre di Piero”, and you can follow a trail of his art using this itinerary.

Village Life in Eastern Tuscany

Our AirBnb apartment was nestled into the old town wall. It was centrally located so we could easily walk to the Wednesday town market, where a farmer sold the freshest vegetables imaginable. We purchased local ravioli and were able to create our own Tuscan feast at the apartment.

This old castle, which houses a pizza restaurant, is where local soccer teams come to celebrate the end of the season.

We were escorted through the Busatti textile factory in the basement of a store in town. The weavers use the same techniques that they’ve used for over 100 years. The owner told us that he was dismayed when Gumps went out of business, as they had been an excellent customer! (Apparently Jerry Brown is a good customer as well.) We purchased lovely napkins and dishtowels that were woven using traditional methods.

Most of all, we loved how Italian villagers celebrate daily life in Tuscany. Lunch is a delicious ritual. The pace is slower and not as hectic as in the city. The gelato is divine. Nancy and John have embraced this lifestyle with aplomb, and we were lucky to share it with them during this magical week.

Grazie tanto!

Sicily: Renewal and Rejuvenation

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Sicily abounds with color, spirit, and cultural pride. On previous visits to Italy, we hadn’t considered visiting Sicily because its image was “too dirty, too crime-infested, too Mafia-controlled.” But over the last two weeks, Sicily has impressed us with its beauty, vigor and renaissance.

Spring Color in Sicily

Wildflowers abound among the ruins of Greek temples from 420 BC (and before). Who knew that Sicily held the largest two Greek cities outside of Athens during the heyday of the Greek empire?

These temples have been lovingly preserved. Our favorite was Segesta, because it seemed to be in the middle of nowhere. This temple was unfinished – no one knows why.

Other temples in Agrigento and Syracusa also were delightful. Tourists from all over Europe are rediscovering their majestic beauty.

The flowers continued to bloom around the island, broadcasting red, gold, and purple hues.

Treasures Emerge from the Mud

Our visit to Villa Romana del Casale (in the interior of the island) presented a tapestry of Roman mosaics from 300 AD. Apparently, this 37,000 square foot palace was built by a Roman who created his fortune importing wild animals from Africa and Asia. The palace was covered by mud from a landslide in around 1300 and was only discovered in the 1930s. Luckily for us, this was past the period of looting, and archeologists have been working ever since to preserve and protect the mosaic masterpieces. Just as Sicily is emerging from a cloud of past troubles, these mosaics have risen from the mud to show exquisite craftsmanship and quality. The bikini girls, who are depicted as athletes playing volleyball and other sports, are a crowd favorite.

As are the animals who grace the entrance area.

The Grand Hall of the Great Hunt showcases a 200-foot long hunting scene with hundreds of animals. Quite the spectacle!

Street Food Pride

In Palermo, we took a Street Food Tour and enjoyed sampling many local delicacies – including the sfincione – fluffy pizza sold on carts and grilled before serving.

Jan eating street food in Palermo, Sicily

We learned that the delicious canolo should be filled with fresh ricotta cheese and chocolate chips immediately before eating. Otherwise the shell gets soggy.

This Palermo cart vendor cooked “pani ca’ meusa” — boiled spleen, lung and other organ meat served on a roll.

This specialty used to be eaten by the poorest people who could only afford the “leftovers” from the local butcher; now, it’s highlighted on global TV food shows. It tastes much better than it sounds!

Sicilian Pride

Salvo, our handsome tour guide, expressed his Sicilian pride in these tasty treats. He said he used to be embarrassed by his old-fashioned name—Salvatore, the name of his Grandfather– but now he embraces it. After working in mainland Italy for years, he’s returned to Sicily, his birth place, to celebrate its culture and zest for life. He is one of many young people who are returning to their communities and bringing youthful vigor. He is now an expert at preparing a traditional hors d’oeuvre platter with sundried tomatoes, olives, cheese, sardines, and crusty bread. This was accompanied by fortified Marsala wine.

Vineyards Thrive in the Lava

Mt. Etna, the highest active volcano in Europe spews lava down the sides of the mountain. Its most recent eruptions occurred in the spring of 2017 and its last major eruption in the 2008/2009 winter. The silver lining is that the lava creates fertile ground for delicious wine varietals. The area around the crater is dotted with charming wineries and gourmet food meccas, and we learned that “eno-tourism” has grown steadily over the last three years.

At the lovely Planeta winery, our hostess explained how many of her friends have returned to Sicily after living abroad because they missed the good weather, good food, family ties, and overall quality of life. They learned skills in Milan, Geneva, and London (among other cities) and are applying their knowledge to emerging Sicilian businesses.

The winery tasting room was in a building from the 1600s.

This old “chute” used to carry grapes. Upstairs, they would stomp the grapes by foot and the juice would be transported to the downstairs cellar.

We toasted our lovely journey with a glass of Planeta Etna Bianco.

Inside the Volcano

Mt. Etna did not disappoint. We drove halfway up the mountain and hiked around the craters created in 2001 and 2002.

It was a bit chilly, and we were glad that we had our “puffer” jackets. Some adventure tourists were even skiing down sides of the volcano.

Luckily the clouds drifted in and out over the mountains, so we could see the volcano peak when it “peeked” out from behind the clouds.

On clear days, you can see Mt. Etna from everywhere. It said “farewell” to us when we departed from the Catania airport near Palermo.

Sicily’s Love for Tradition

Although some things are changing, some things stay constant. At the Taverna Azzurra in Palermo, this photo from 1950s graces the wall.

On a weekday in May, the same owners were still serving drinks to locals and tourists alike.

In Noto, the locals hold a traditional flower contest where petals cover the streets. This year’s theme was “Americans in Sicily”. This beautiful display included references to Superman, Batman, and Joe DiMaggio.

The cars are timeless. We especially liked the Fiats.

This patisserie along a small road in a rural village has been in operation since 1880. We loved the tasty (and inexpensive) pastries and coffee.

Aperol Spritz

In the last two weeks, there have been articles in the New York Times, the Washington Post, and the SF Chronicle discussing the merits of the Aperol Spritz – the popular orange cocktail made with Aperol and Prosecco. Aperol liqueur has been available in Italy since 1919 and was acquired by Campari in the 1980s. The Aperol Spritz is now popular all over Europe and the US. However, not all connoisseurs approve. The writer for the NY Times wrote that an Aperol Spritz “drinks like a Capri Sun after soccer practice on a hot day. Not in a good way.” We thought this comment was pretty snarky, so we decided we had to try the cocktail and make our own opinion. Sitting in an outdoor café overlooking the water in Taormina, we found the Aperol Spritz to be delightful and refreshing. (No snarkiness from us!)

So, arrivederci Sicily! We’ve enjoyed our two-week stay. We lift our glass, be it Aperol Spritz or Etna Vino Bianco, and say “Saluti” to all.

Out in the Outback

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It sounded like a good idea. Rent a camper. Experience the Outback off-road. Sleep under the stars. Channel our inner “Crocodile Dundee”.

Unfortunately, we had failed to consider two critical aspects of March travel in the Outback — heat and the bugs!

Our first warning came as we disembarked from the plane in Alice Springs — the gateway to the Outback. The ramp worker wore shorts with a bug net on her head! We looked at each other with concern. Yikes. What had we gotten ourselves into?

Setting out in our Apollo LandCruiser

We picked up our 4WD camper in Alice Springs and filled it up with diesel fuel.

We purchased provisions, including bug spray, for a week of outback adventure and drove to Glen Helen, the first outback station on the Red Center Circle. The moment we got out of the car flies bombarded us. We saw two French tourists wearing bug nets and inquired, “Where can we get these?” Luckily, bug nets are widely available, We happily purchased two.

These nets became our constant companions for the week.

After a dip in the dramatic gorge and the refreshing swimming pool with bug nets over our heads, we cooked our dinner in a screened shed along with the French tourists who also had a camper. (We called ourselves “Apollo un y Apollo Deux”.) Then we set up our “home” for the night. While reading, Jan swatted a seemingly infinite number of bugs with her book.

Hmm….. maybe this camper thing wasn’t such a good idea.

Off Road!

The next morning, after donning bug nets, we headed onwards towards King’s Canyon. The temperature was at least 100 degrees after 9 am. As the pavement turned to gravel and rock, we noticed many tires by the side of the road; now we understood why passenger cars were prohibited.

We stopped to see if we could help one of our fellow “Apollo travelers” who had this flat tire.

This pair was German, and Jan was able to ask, “Konnen wir Sie helfen?” Fortunately, they were traveling with another German couple who at the time was driving a couple of kilometers ahead. The friends quickly returned to their forlorn friends and provided assistance so our help was not needed. We later saw both couples, as they were trying to figure out where they could purchase an additional spare tire.

After seeing this incident, Ed decided to slow down and take it easy. We were in no rush, and didn’t want to join the “Flat Tire Club.” Since the camper had excellent A/C, we were happy staying inside. We listened to the delightful book on tape, In a Sunburned Country by Bill Bryson, which captures his experience on a road trip through Australia in the early 2000’s. He also made note of the bugs.

At Kings Canyon, we opted for the lodge, as we were “one and done” for sleeping in the camper. Luckily we secured the second to last available room. We enjoyed the pool and the A/C! The full moon was spectacular, and the local Aussies pointed out the wide range of stars, including the Southern Cross.

Uluru Magic

We ventured on to Uluru–the indigenous name for Ayers Rock–and opted for the lodge with pool.

Uluru did not disappoint! The massive rock inspires awe from every direction.

We enjoyed the sunset, and Ed didn’t let the bugs diminish his enjoyment of a “sundowner”.

We were impressed with the Bruce Munro “Field of Light” exhibit that twinkles after sundown. Encompassing 50,000 hand-blown lights of varying colors scattered beneath the giant rock, the lights offer a riot of color. Walking through the lights is magical.

The other major landmark of this area is Kata Tjuta. These 36 massive rocks, which appear from a distance as a monolith, are amazing and change from each angle of viewing.

On another day, we watched the sunrise over Uluru. Again, it was beautiful.

On rented bikes, we took an early morning ten km spin around the giant rock.

Up close we could enjoy the textures and irregularities of the terrain.

Around Uluru, numerous brush fires burned right up to the roads. One road closed just after we passed. As we learned from our book on tape, “bush fires are a way of life in the Outback.”

Surprise…Car Trouble!

On our way back to Alice Springs, we enjoyed lunch at the Curtin Springs Cattle Station. The steak sandwiches were delicious and made from local beef. But, after lunch, when we returned to the LandCruiser, it wouldn’t start! Ed tried pumping the gas, but it was a “no go”. A few Aussie men came out to push us to try to jump-start the camper but alas, this didn’t work.

We called the “free call” number for Apollo Assistance. When the telephone assistance agent called back from the Philippines to ask whether we were at Curtin Springs East or West, we were somewhat concerned as Curtin Springs Cattle Station was literally the only road stop within 100 miles in any direction.

Of all the places to break down in the Outback, this was about as good as could be. Not only could we wait in the store (with A/C), but there were rooms available in case we had to spend the night. The staff was the epitome of Aussie friendliness. “No worries, mate! You can stay here as long as you like!” We purchased extra-rich ice cream bars to quell our anxieties. We waited around three hours until a mechanic showed up with a tow truck. He was able to fiddle around with the pressure valve for the starter and, after a few tries, the camper started! What a relief. He suggested that we fill the tank with diesel and drive through to Alice Springs without stopping.

A Shady-Looking “Resort”

100 km from Alice Springs, it began to get dark. Driving at night in the Outback is not advisable since this is when wildlife suddenly pops onto the roadway. Since we had gotten out of bed at 5:20 am to see the sunrise, we decided to stop for the night at a remote roadside resort. Although the “resort” met our needs in providing a bed with sheets, it was one of the least-atmospheric places imaginable. Our “cabin” was like a trailer in a B-grade movie. This resort could have passed for a medium security prison.

We were surprised to look at the guest book and see that the only other guest was a conservative, recently-retired ex-US congressman from Virginia! Ed commented that this was a very appropriate place for a GOP former Judiciary Committee chairman to hide out and perhaps prepare for a future residence.

Back to Alice Springs

The next morning, as Ed crossed his fingers, the camper started. We drove the final 100 km of our 1200 km trek back to Alice Springs, explored the town a bit and turned in our beloved (not) Apollo camper companion. Before we reached the rental agency, we saw this sign showing a “kindred spirit” advertising sporting goods. We did not knowingly steal their slogan when we integrated Partners In Adventure, the name of this blog, into our wedding vows a few years later.

In Alice Springs, we visited the “School of the Air”, a distance learning public school founded in 1951. The students live in the Outback — most on “cattle stations” in the middle of nowhere. Earlier students received packets every month by mail and had their lessons over the radio, using a bicycle wheel to power the service.

Now, the lessons are online. We watched three classes in action. In this one for middle school students, the teacher was discussing “self-esteem.” As we’re currently coaching in a distance learning executive education program for the Stanford Graduate School of Business, we identified with this approach.

Also, in Alice Springs we toured the historic Telegraph Station. Founded in the 1880s, this was a relay station for all telegraph communication between Adelaide and London.

Instead of taking three months for a letter to be sent from Adelaide to London by ship, communicating through the new telegraph system was almost instantaneous.

When the station needed supplies, they were delivered by camel train, the precursor to the very, very long and heavy “road trains” which today barrel down Outback roads at high speed.

Empathy for Indigenous People

Everywhere in the Northern Territories, we saw (or heard) this sentiment, which respects the ancestral lands of the Indigenous peoples.

The history between the Australians and the Indigenous population has been fraught with problems. This Telegraph Station was even used to house Indigenous children who had been taken from their parents so they would learn to be more “white”. This practice was fortunately abolished in the late 1930’s.

Additionally, in the Northwest Territory state where the Outback is located, Aboriginal drunkenness is a huge issue which other Aussies believe has resulted from genetic differences between Aboriginals and more recent immigrants to Australia. Laws regarding the distribution of alcoholic beverages draw distinctions between Aboriginal people and others. Posted regulations state when and how much alcohol Aboriginals can purchase at any given period. This seemed strange to us as Americans.

Driving the Red Center route in March was an adventure, albeit a hot and buggy one. We met French and German tourists and saw no other Americans on this route. Uluru was incredible and worth it. However, next time, we’ll opt to fly there in the Winter or Spring!

Wild Tasmania … Not!

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Our week in Tasmania was a delight. We were expecting a more rough-and-tumble, remote place, but instead found sophisticated tourist infrastructure, beautiful nature, and gourmet delights. On a map, relative to the Australian continent, Tasmania looks like a small island, say Nantucket. In fact, it is closer to the size of the State of Maine. In late March, the weather in Tasmania–late summer in Australia–was quite comfortable; Tasmania is regarded as the coldest place in Australia. We flew from Melbourne on an easy flight.

It’s Happening in Hobart

Hobart is a hotbed of activity for tourists–mostly from other coastal cities in Australia. Many follow the foodie trail and seek locally grown organic produce and wines, which are delicious. We were lucky to sample four of the restaurants on this list, and they did not disappoint. One evening, we dined at the 8:30 seating for the prix-fix menu at Templo (#3 on the list). We sat at a communal table, which was very jolly and friendly; lots of laughter. The next day, we had lunch at the Agrarian Kitchen (#2 on the list), and had the same waitress! She said, “Oh, didn’t I wait on you last night? You were at the Party Table!” We were glad that we had changed our clothes overnight! Both meals were terrific.

The Museum of Old and New Art–MONA

As one of the best privately-owned museums in the world, MONA amazed us at every turn. The artwork and the building–which is mostly underground–are totally interdependent. None of the works in the museum would thrive in a conventional art museum gallery. The founder and benefactor–David Walsh–earned his money gambling. (No, that is not a typo. He does not own a casino, he gambles. Who said you cannot consistently beat the house!) We were enthralled with this waterfall that spells words based on the frequency of their use on the Internet:

Up Close and Personal

We had signed up in advance for a two-person James Turrell “Unseen Seen and Weight of Darkness” show in this sphere.

Inside the sphere, we lay on a bed and were bombarded by lights from every direction. As the website states:

These James Turrell artworks will push your perceptual limits. Climb in and hang on for your proverbial.

You experience the art in all different ways. There are no signs or captions — but you hear from the artists on the audio guide.

Neither photos nor descriptions do MONA justice, so you’ll have to put it on your Bucket List!

National Parks of Tasmania

We were impressed by the beauty of two of the “Tasi” national parks

Freycinet encompasses miles of wild coastline, including scenic bays, beaches, and rock outcroppings. We hiked to the lookout for Wineglass Bay (with many other tourists).

And, we found a more remote spot, where we were only accompanied by one other couple (who gladly snapped our photo as we precariously balanced on the rocks).

The vistas were lovely.

In Cradle Mountain, we stayed in a mountain cottage and enjoyed hiking around Dove Lake.

After the hike, we “assumed the position”, and inspired this group of gals to do the same.

We loved both parks. Minimal traffic. Smooth road infrastructure. We rarely passed or encountered another car driving in either direction.

Boutique Gin in Tasmania

A recent New York Times article described burgeoning Tasmanian gin distilleries. We went to a gin tasting at Salamanca Society in Hobart and decided that Poltergeist Gin was our favorite of the four we tried.

Each taste was presented with recommended mixers–red pepper berries, grapefruit, orange–as well as a high-end tonic. Most certainly, the range of gin flavors goes well beyond Bombay Sapphire and Hendricks. The native botanicals of Tasmania give its spirits their distinctive tastes.

A Visit to A Distillery

On our last day, we visited the Shene Estate and Distillery to see how Poltergeist Gin is made and to purchase some to impress friends with our cocktails back home. What an amazing location and enterprise! Unlike on weekends when they sell from their “cellar door” along the highway, we got a special tour of the homestead which was built 200 years ago as a cattle station. The Kernke family has transformed it into a distillery, supporting a traditional distillation process with all the latest monitoring and control equipment.

Poltergeist has won a double gold medal in the San Francisco World Spirits Competition–who knew there is such a thing–for the last two years.

They had their fingers crossed for 2019, which is happening soon and inquired, when they learned we lived in San Francisco, whether we had influence over the judges. The hosts were very gracious; although we did note that the tour ended shortly after we gave our response.

And, Don’t Forget the Wineries

We also visited the gorgeous “cellar door” of Gala Estate, a fifth-generation family winery. The striking color combinations and textures of the walls in their small tasting room were determined based on what left-overs were available from the local paint merchant. Their wines weren’t bad either!

Meeting the Locals

No visit to Tasmania is complete without saying hello to the Tasmanian Devil of Bugs Bunny fame. This species only lives on Tasmania and is endangered because many have contracted a rare cancer. The ones we saw were cancer-free as they live on an isolated peninsula.

We also said “G’day” to a wombat.

And Jan couldn’t resist feeding a few ‘roos’.

What a Fun Week

We were sad when our Tasmanian week came to an end. We could definitely spend more time here — hiking in other parks, tasting more gin and seeking out other distilleries and wineries… and there is a burgeoning business of Tasmanian artisanal whiskey for those who prefer harder spirits.

Variety in Victoria

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For the last 10 days, Ed and I have explored the state of Victoria, Australia. Based in Melbourne, we have encountered an enormous variety of weather, topography, wildlife, and beverage!

First, the Weather

We left Ketchum, Idaho in the middle of a blizzard. Luckily we left town before the roads were closed — and we traveled smoothly on recently plowed roads. We also missed a major storm coming over the Sierras and decided to drive the 800-mile journey to SF in one day. SF was a bit chilly as well, but made it to SFO without any problems, except for a bit of rain and lots of Tahoe traffic. It was quite the shock to our systems to encounter a Melbourne Heat Wave! The locals said it had been the hottest summer/early fall on record. The temperature easily reached 100 degrees F. This was a 100-degree difference from Ketchum!

Dealing with the Heat Wave

The goal was to wear the least amount of clothes possible while remaining respectable, since Melbourne is a major City. Our Airbnb was lovely but did not have A/C. So, we turned on the supplied fans and slept under only a sheet. The apartment was in a charmingly restored old municipal building which was not designed for heat. The City was broiling. On our Free City Tour (tips only), the cheerful guides supplied bulk sunscreen and pointed out the free spots where everyone could refill their water bottles. We all obliged. The city was beautiful — very hip and urban, and we loved it when we tucked into the hidden lanes or historic arcades. We donned our Aussie hats and tried to keep cool. Jan even forgot to remove her hat while she was finishing up the Stanford projects that we didn’t get to before leaving SF.

We were happy to learn that the recently restored Princess Theater now includes A/C! We were lucky to score tickets to the new Harry Potter two-part play and enjoyed every minute. This is the third venue, outside of London and New York where the play is being staged.

We left Melbourne to find ourselves in a cold rainstorm — with lots of wind.

Luckily we were able to keep dry by dashing to and from our rental car. Our recently purchased “puffer” down parkas came in handy on Phillip Island. (These coats felt ridiculous only a few days back.)

We’ll see what the weather holds over the next two weeks.

Topography

The scenery — both man-made and natural — is breathtaking. We loved the Victorian “beach boxes” at Brighton Beach near Melbourne. These cute “changing stations” have not changed very much in the last 150 years. But, the people who lease them keep them brightly colored and well painted.

Since it was so scenic, we had to “assume the position”.

We loved the setting of this industrial smoke stack in the middle of the “Melbourne Central” mall in the the Central Business District (CBD). This mall is over the central train station and was bustling with shoppers.

All the trams in the CBD are free, which truly encourages the use of public transportation — even when the trams advertise Vegemite!

The sun came out as we explored the Great Ocean Road, with the monumental “Twelve Apostles”.

This is a major tourist attraction — especially among Chinese tourists, who were there in droves.

With the onslaught of Chinese tourists, the Great Ocean Road parks have to deal with the cultural differences. We were surprised to note these tips in the local bathroom stall:

Everywhere we looked we saw beautiful vistas and seascapes. Even though this is a popular attraction, it’s possible to avoid the throngs of tourists and enjoy the setting.

Birds and Animals — Both Tame and Wild

On Phillip Island, we visited the “world famous” Penguin Parade. Yes, you read it right. Every night at dusk, members of this colony of 32,000 little penguins–the smallest penguins in the world–leave the ocean and head up to their beach dwellings–little holes in the sand. As a way to raise funds to preserve their habitat, this National Park charges admission to watch them walk by. We purchased the “Penguin Plus” package … which allowed for more up close and personal viewing. It was quite the scene. The Penguins march by in groups to protect themselves from predators. While we were there, it was “molting season”, so many penguins were quite fat with extra feathers to get ready for the upcoming winter. (Cameras are not allowed–which challenged many of the enthusiastic tourists; the photos below are captured from a postcard.)

On Phillip Island, we stayed at a cool farm. To increase their income, the Bimbadeen family built three pre-fab units on their property to rent to overnight guests. Our unit was well designed and very comfortable.

Outside our kitchen window, lived this darling llama couple.

The farm hosts 300 cattle. At 9:30 am one morning, Jan was tapped to bottle-feed Wellington–a calf who was born a twin; the mum could only cope with one calf. At 9:20 am Wellington was definitely ready for breakfast and made quite a racket until the bottle appeared, and Jan held it in position.

Since we’re in Australia, we also saw kangaroos, wallabies, and koalas. The wallabies are well camouflaged.

And, the koalas, who usually sleep 20 hours per day–as their diet does not provide much fuel for energy–were quite active during our visit to their reserve.

The joke is that the “city bird” of Melbourne is actually the crane, since one visitor who we met recently counted 40 or more cranes lording over the skyline.

Beverages

Wineries abound in Victoria. Many specialize in chardonnay and pinot noir — our favorites! But, since it has been so hot, many vistas are dry. We’re glad to report that the wine is delicious.

One aspect of Australian life that is more constant than ever-changing is the coffee. The Aussies love their “flat white,” so this is what we ordered on a daily basis. No matter which roadside stop or cafe we patronized, the flat whites were the same–and always delicious.

So, here’s to a “cuppa”. The Aussies are incredibly friendly and generous while the scenery is vibrant and varied. This makes traveling in Victoria a treat. Our next destination is Tasmania.

A Panama Paradise That Gives Back

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After our tour of Colombia, Ed and I enjoyed four nights at Casa Cayuco, an eco-adventure resort on the Bocas del Toro archipelago in Panama. It was a delightful chance to snorkel, enjoy nature, and relax.

As an all-inclusive resort, we simply had to wait for the call of a conch shell which indicated it was time to proceed to delicious locally-sourced breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Nice! The resort is right on the water, and our “Tortuga” cabin had easy access to the beach.

Even more important than the luxury of the resort, was the impact that this lodge has on the local community.10% of the current profits at Casa Cayuco go directly to Salt Creek, a local Ngöbe Bugle village with around 1,000 residents. The proceeds go directly to the directors of the school, who manage the funds. On our final day at the resort, we took a short boat ride to visit the village, which was nestled in a deep patch of mangroves.

A Visit to the Local School

The village school, the heart of the community, is supported by donations from Casa Cayuco–in addition to minimal government funding. All lodge guests are encouraged to visit the village and bring school supplies for the classrooms. We were happy to contribute to this effort.

Not all the students were in class during our visit; some just peered through the windows. (Apparently, there had been some problems with the water supply during the last few days.)

Two new high school classrooms are being built with the funds from Casa Cayuco. The number of high school graduates has soared from 0 in the past, to 5 in 2017 to 25 in 2018 and will continue to grow. (The government supplies the teachers now that classrooms will be available.)

Tourist dollars spent at Casa Cayuco have a big impact on a local community. Many volunteers also support the village though community service projects.

Not only does the resort provide employment for locals, but the school leaders are also able to direct how the resources from the resort are used to benefit the community. Everyone benefits from this approach — especially the next generation!

Snorkeling in the Clear Waters

As visitors to this remote area, we also enjoyed the incredible snorkeling. We set off in a private pontoon boat, expertly commanded by José, a skilled free-diver and boat handler who lives in the nearby Salt Creek village with his large contingent of children and grandchildren.

The first day we jumped off the boat and explored the Zapatillas islands, a national marine park where all the underwater life is protected. The fish were colorful and plentiful.

José joined us in the water and was able to catch and release octopus, lobster, starfish, and many other sea organisms. José can free dive for over a minute and a half (!); we think he might be half dolphin!

Another day we snorkeled around mangrove islands and were astonished at the rainbow of colored coral and sponges growing on the mangrove roots.

Since José is an expert boat handler, he was able to maneuver the boat into Dolphin Bay and create some waves that encouraged the local dolphin population to come out and play in the waves. (Note: we were not quick enough on the trigger to catch any photos of dolphins leaping, but are including this one from the Casa Cayuco website since this is what it looked like!)

José is also an expert fisherman. He used a hand line to catch this huge barracuda, right from the dock.

The Casa Cayuco resort can host up to 24 guests. Joining us at the resort were a delightful couple from Denver celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary and a group of 12 students from Pitzer College on a study-abroad trip.

Marine Biology at the Resort

The accompanying biology professor, Cheryl Baduini, took the underwater pictures shown above and shared them with us. She has been studying the marine life in Bocas del Torro for 15 years and is an expert in identifying the creatures and the coral.

The students worked on independent projects during their stay, and we observed their final presentations. Who knew we could partake in a college level marine biology course in Paradise?

Casa Cayuco has been owned by an American couple (Dave and Suzanne) for the last five years. Recently, they added Mina, their 3-year-old daughter (who was born in Panama) to their board of directors … so the hotel can be considered to be run by local! Below, she is concentrating on hotel strategy and marketing, by critically observing the marine location:

So, this combination of beauty, learning, and giving back to the local village was a winner! We loved our stay at Casa Cayuco and were delighted to be a part of a community that cares about giving back to the local area, supporting the local culture, and preserving the beautiful natural environment. 2021 Update: Dave and Suzanne have sold the resort but it looks like the new owners are keeping the traditions alive!

The Panama Canal

And, no trip to Panama would be complete without a trip through the Panama Canal. We enjoyed our small boat tour through the canal and marveled at the engineering foresight from 1914!

On our trip, a group of local indigenous people joined us … complete with their cell phones.

The original gates in the locks operate 24/7. The journey is quite spectacular.

It was very windy during our transit through the canal and we had to either remove or hold on to our Panama Hats! It was quite the ride.

Off the Beaten Track in Colombia

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During the last week of September, Ed and I explored the Southern part of Colombia. We saw very few tourists–and no Americans–as we explored two areas with lost civilizations–one that thrived from 500 – 900 AD, and another which started in 3300 BC.

Statues of San Agustín

San Agustín, a UNESCO World Heritage site, hosts an eye-popping collection of carved stone statues –dating from 3300 BC (!) to 900 AD. Archeologists have associated the figures with historical periods, based on their style and intricacy.

Standing in front of ancient statue in Augustin Colombia

These statues tell the story of a civilization with celibate warriors (who have strings tied around their private parts to indicate “out of order.”)

Statues in San Augustin Colombia

Legends include the role of the shamans who drink hallucinogenic potions and turn into various animals. The people worshiped gods, like the Sun God, who protected them in the afterlife.

Nestled within the folds of the southern Andes in Colombia, the San Augustin area is strikingly beautiful and rich with lush vegetation. Coffee plants abound along the hillsides, and the flowers are breathtaking.

Underground Funeral Chambers at Tierradentro

A lost civilization- from 500 – 900 AD created elaborate burial procedures and painted intricate funeral chambers high in the foothills of the Andes at Tierradentro. Only discovered in the 1930’s, these chambers give us a peek into a world previously unknown–and to this date, unnamed. Upon our arrival, the local guards opened the overhead doors to each chamber, and we warily climbed down, flashlight at the ready.

Each chamber was dug deep into the earth. The stairways varied–some spiral, some were just a “zig-zag” of boulders.

Below were intricate paintings in black, white, and sometimes red. It was inspiring to stand in the presence of images that were almost 2,000 years old.

Some of the paintings were quite modern in design.

During our visit, we were glad not to need the “bodyboard” stationed outside of each funeral cave. (I’m not sure how one could extract someone from a tomb using this board, as the access was very narrow.)

The Library in Inza

In this area we also visited a remote village, Inza, which had an exquisite community library! With funding from the government of Japan, and an architect from Germany, the building reminded us of Ronchamp Chapel by Le Corbusier in France.

Inside, kids of all ages were thriving in an active-learning after-school program.

Colombia’s Tatacoa Desert

We enjoyed the scenic vistas of this dry tropical forest, which reminded us of Southern Utah. The formations were smaller than Bryce or Zion, but still quite beautiful.

Of course, we had to “assume the position” to memorialize our presence.

One of the stranger “tourist attractions” in this desert was this swimming pool — built right into the rocks. Loud music blasted from the surround sound speakers. We could have taken a dip, but it was just too weird.

Reflections from off the Beaten Track in Colombia

There are a few advantages to this type of travel. Often, when we hovered near a restaurant, contemplating lunch or dinner, the waiter and chef would jump up from a local park and run into the restaurant to warmly welcome us. Since we were often the only customer, we received personalized service! Also, the innkeepers and hosts were exceedingly gracious and appreciative of our business.

However, there are also disadvantages. One of the reasons there are so few tourists here, is that the roads are terrible. Luckily we had hired an excellent driver, Renel, who could navigate the enormous potholes in the roads and effectively drive around barriers and detours. We were very thankful that we had been advised not to pursue a drive-it-yourself trip, which would have been a nightmare. An 80 km trip can take up to four hours.

Infrastructure Needs Work

All of the bridges were under construction (without a construction worker in sight), so we frequently had to drive into the river bed. We were also glad not to travel on the local bus — which was filled well beyond capacity with school kids!

school kids on top of bus in San Augustin Colombia

The local indigenous people complain that the Colombian government doesn’t care about this region. So there has been little investment in infrastructure.

Since Renel usually drove a truck, he knew the best truck stops which provided tasty and cheap lunches that would not make us sick. He knew which plaza offered 30-cent ice cream cones. Also, Renel used to be a professional soccer player, so he was very lively and charming. He could climb up boulders while we watched. In the car, Jan practiced her Spanish, while Ed used his Portuguese to understand the commentary.

Another wrinkle was that immediately before flying to Southern Colombia, a friend sent us a link to the US State Department advisory that listed the “Cauca Valley” as a “no-go region.” Once we read this, we frantically tried to assess the situation but were assured by many people that the areas we were visiting were completely safe and that tourists were not the target of any FARC-related gang violence. Luckily, this proved to be the case.

Compared the bustle of Bogotá, the high rises of Medellín, and the tropical color of Cartagena, this area of Colombia is very rural. The trip gave us an increased appreciation of these long-lost civilizations, and a peek into the life of many people who depend on sustainable agriculture as a way of life. Increased government spending on infrastructure could help get this area on the radar, but it’s unclear if that will be happening anytime soon. Next stop for us: Panama.

Papa, Mama, and Me (Part Three)

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For those who follow this blog, you’ll remember that my 95-year-old mum and I have visited quite a few of Hemingway’s haunts over the past few years, including his homes in Cuba and Key West. When we planned our current trip to Northern Michigan and Southern Canada, little did we know that once again, we would be following in Ernest’s footsteps!

Petoskey, Michigan

A young Ernest Hemingway spent his summers near the quaint town of Petoskey, Michigan. Many landmarks of his life in town are memorialized by plaques. We saw where he lived, where he fished, and where he recuperated after World War I. He frequented the local saloon (of course) and chose the third spot at the bar for his hangout.

History at the Bar

In the past, this bar was a “men only club”, and instead of sitting at stools at the bar, the men stood and leaned against the bar. There used to be a spittoon every three feet on the ground. The 32-foot-long mahogany bar was built in 1894 by the Brunswick Billiards Company; it’s now worth more than the building. The mirrors are original; only the gas lights have been changed out for electric ones (leaving the ceiling charred from the gas lamps). Billiard tables used to grace the area now populated by tables for dining.

Our Guided Tour

One of the bartenders has become a local historian and was delighted to give us a complete tour of this restaurant, which was once a speakeasy supplied by Al Capone.

Mary Ellen, the bartender in a Roaring 20’s dress with pearls, guided us through the bar and told about it’s history, including stories about Hemingway and his pals. Our tour also included a view of the basement, where there were three hidden tunnels for bootlegging liquor to adjacent properties. (My mother was not too excited when the lights in the basement went out because they were on a timer. Our guide had to ascend the stairs to turn them on, while I held on to my mother’s hand and we both stood still.) When we ascended the stairs and came back to the restaurant, we learned that this establishment was never busted during Prohibition, because the owner had friends in the right places.

Petoskey Was Not Proud of This History

In fact, the town of Petoskey had swept this history under the rug, because it was not entirely complementary. Little has changed to the facade of the restaurant, which was built in 1875, even though the buildings on both sides have burned down. Apparently, during Prohibition, the windows on the ground floor were blacked out, but the top windows were clear, allowing for the bar’s employees to keep a lookout for the police. Hemingway immortalized this saloon in his short story, “A Man of the World”. (It’s on our reading list!)

Thanks to a 2015 NY Times Article, we learned about Hemingway in Northern Michigan:

By all accounts, northern Michigan had a seismic effect on Ernest Hemingway and his future work. He spent his first 21 summers there, fishing, hunting, drinking and chasing girls. It was a place where men lived hard and lean, ran trotlines and considered bilge water a beverage. “Good stuff for essays,” he wrote in a 1916 journal entry, recording fishing trip details he would later channel into Nick Adams stories.

Apparently, Ernest returned to Petoskey after his stint in World War I and worked on his novels at this rooming house:

The story in the New York Times stated that Hemingway was late for his first wedding, in nearby Horton Bay, because the fishing on the Sturgeon River was so good. (This was his marriage to Hadley, his first wife, who was reportedly a Methodist teetotaler from Michigan. The bartender told us that the locals knew it would never work out!)

Across the Border

Not to be outdone by Michigan, when Mama and I arrived in Sault Saint Marie, Canada, we found that Canada also takes credit for entertaining Hemingway!

This was printed in the free tourist magazine for the area. (Sault St Marie is nicknamed “the Soo”, because “sault” is pronounced “soo”.)

Canada was fun — we met the locals:

And learned a lot from the historical characters in the museum. Who knew that both Canada and the US claim to have won the War of 1812!

We took a train ride deep into a canyon and admired the engineering that built the tracks through the rocks.

Later on our trip, we returned to the US and will soon visit Mackinac Island. We don’t think we’ll find more Hemingway sights on the island, but who knows? Stay tuned!

Sojourn in Slovenia

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Wonderful Waterfalls. Majestic mountains. Beautiful rivers and lakes. Slovenia in early June was a scenic delight.

Spontaneous Itinerary

When we arrived from Croatia, the office manager of the Sixt car rental agency in Portoroz Slovenia was somewhat surprised to be renting to tourists from the US. He inquired about our planned itinerary, and since we could barely pronounce most of our tentative destinations, he jotted down his favorite “off the beaten track” waterfalls and list of “must-eat” treats. We gratefully took the list, put his ideas into our google maps, and off we went.

Walking to Waterfalls

Our first stop was the Tolminska Korita area, where we hiked to a dramatic gorge. This steep canyon trail led to a deep fissure among giant rocks.

The trail was a bit slippery due to some morning rain, so we were very thankful that we’d brought out our handy walking sticks for extra traction. (Ed noticed that his physical therapist would be happy with two more points of contact while hiking.)

During our visit, we saw many other waterfalls, including the Boka Waterfall, the “highest waterfall” in the country (dropping from 136 meters, directly from an underground karst.)

And the Rinka Waterfall, a skinnier one in the Logar Valley. The force of this fall could drench an unsuspecting visitor. While we were there, a group of school kids was also visiting. The teacher had a loud whistle, which he blew when a kid got too near. All the kids understood this not-too-subtle command, and they stepped back immediately.

A Roaring River in Southern Slovenia

The Soca River carves its way through the Soca Valley in Southern Slovenia. It was the site of the Italian Front during World War I, which is immortalized by Hemingway in A Farewell to Arms.

Water danced on the rocks and the sun shimmered on the leaves. The rivers (and rainfall) keep the scenery verdant and lush.

A Luxurious Lake

Lake Bled boasts that it is the top tourist attraction in the country (after the capital, Ljubljana). Since no motorized boats are allowed on the lake, the charming island in the middle can only be accessed by rowboat. We joined a jolly group from Austria for this journey on a traditional pletna boat, a man-powered craft, similar to a gondola.

Other folks opted to row their personal boat to practice sculling in their Olympic-sized course on the lake. We learned that several Olympic medal winners train on this course.

Lake Bled, with its picturesque island, was beautiful — and looked right out of a fairy tale.

Majestic Mountains of Slovenia

The Virsc mountain pass passes through the border with Austria, where we dipped in for a few kilometers. This pass included 50 switchbacks (each with its own number). We were surprised to note quite a few bicyclists pedaling up and down this incredible climb. We “assumed the position” at the summit.

And felt like we were literally among the clouds.

A charming Russian church blessed one of the switchbacks.

The Logarska Dolina Did Not Disappoint

We ended up in Logarska Dolina (the Logar Valley). The view from our room in a farmhouse in the Logar Valley was breathtaking. From our porch, we watched a rainstorm dance around the valley and were thankful to be under the awning.

The Julian Alps beckon hikers from all nations. We only took a day trip but saw other hikers embarking on a hut-to-hut journey. Perhaps next time.

Fabulous Food in Slovenia

Our splurge stop in Slovenia was at Hisa Franko near Kobarid. Here we had booked an 11-course extravaganza dinner. Not only did we have 11 courses; we opted for the wine pairing of 7 Slovenian wines plus champagne to start and an extra red with the optional cheese course.

The flavors were delicious, and the presentation of each morsel was exquisite. Each course–made from local ingredients–was presented with a sense of place and a sense of humor–especially this shrimp course.

Luckily we had also booked a room in the Inn upstairs, so we were able to climb upstairs and fall into bed after this incredible dinner. When we arrived home, we learned that Hisa Franko was just rated #48 in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Quite memorable!

More Food To Try

To continue our food odyssey through Solvenia, we tried the “kremma rezina” at Villa Bled, overlooking the lake–another recommendation by our Sixt Car rental agent. Delicious, but not low cal.

On the island in the middle of Lake Bled, we tried “potica”, our second dessert of the day. Potica is the traditional Slovenian dessert that the Pope asked Melania Trump if she served it to POTUS during their Vatican visit. The Pope is reported to have asked, “What do you feed him…Potica?” when he noticed Donald’s imposing bulk.

Not to be outdone, local food entrepreneurs honor Melania with some treats named after her:

And New Beverages as Well

In the new food and drink category, we also tried Orange Wine (like rose, but orange) which has become quite popular in Slovenia. According to All About Orange Wine Slovenia has a long history of orange wine making. It was delicious!

In Bled, we dined at a small restaurant that had an interesting claim to fame — Sir Paul McCartney also loves it!

We found Slovenia to be an unexpected pleasure. No traffic or crowds. We highly recommend it to fellow adventurers.