Category Archives: 2022 Travels

Oman by 4×4

From the smooth highway pavement to winding paths on rocky cliffs, our two-week road trip through Oman was filled with delightful surprises. We rented a Toyota “Fortuner” 4WD at the airport and drove on a circular route through the country. At times, the “off-roads” were challenging.

Off Road Magic

On the bumpy road towards Wadi Tiwi, a local stuck his head out the window of his car and yelled, “4 wheel now!” We heeded his advice and were glad we did. The slope was very steep, and the road around the boulders was impossibly narrow and twisty. We joked, “Good thing this is the way in … hopefully there’s another road for the way out!” Not! Luckily there was not much traffic, and all drivers were courteous, as everyone recognized the narrow nature of the road.

The road to Jebel Shams, the highest mountain in Oman, was described as: “Not for nervous or inexperienced drivers.” That is an understatement, to be sure.

Ed drove slowly and carefully, and the Fortuner had high clearance and avoided the many boulders and rocks. (Jan had to hold her tongue, as any “driving tips” were not welcome–or Ed would say, “not necessary!”)

Balcony Walk

The mountain drive was worth it, as the views from Jebel Shams were incredible.

Often called the “Omani Grand Canyon,” this area offers a rim trail or “Balcony Walk.” It’s an old trail once used by goats and shepherds.

We hiked the 7-mile round trip Balcony Walk to an abandoned village. Over the 3.5-mile area, there were guard rails on about 20 feet of trail.

On all the other parts, we had to rely on careful footing. Often the trail disappeared, and we had to scamper over the rocks, looking for the next trail marker. On the way out, we didn’t realize we were descending, so the return was more challenging than we had expected.

Luckily we returned to the trailhead before it started to rain at about 2 pm. We learned that other hikers got stuck out there – soaking wet and more likely to slip on the slick surface.

Making New Friends

Everywhere we went, we were impressed with the warmth and hospitality of the Omani people. People constantly offered us food and Omani coffee. We only saw one other American couple during our entire two-week tour, and the locals were surprised that we were from the USA. We received many smiles and curious glances.

Wanna Buy a Goat?

The Friday morning Goat market in Nizwa is a colorful and noisy affair. The night before, we scoped out the empty arena where the market would take place the next day.

On Friday at 7 am, the place was abuzz with goats bleating and men haggling. For some, it was an opportunity to get together with friends and exchange stories.

In this traditional market, the sellers “parade” their goats around the arena while buyers observe the goats.

If interested, a buyer can wave the goat herder over, and check out the goat – by looking at its teeth (to determine age and health) and feeling the udders – to determine whether the goat is pregnant. Buyers see a pregnant goat as a two-for-one deal. Once a deal is cut, the cash is transferred, and the goat gets tied up somewhere so the buyer can load it in his truck or car trunk and take it home. Once the parade of goats started, the action moved quite quickly.

Jan met one of the goat buyers, Samir, as he completed his transaction.

He purchased this beauty for 32 Rial, which is $82.

After chatting briefly, Samir told Jan, “I would love to have you visit me at my farm in Quriyat.” We discovered we would drive by Quriyat on the way back to Muscat, so we said, “ok!” We exchanged WhatsApp numbers and parted ways.

We contacted Samir and arranged a visit. Finding the farm was challenging, as Google maps couldn’t direct us. Instead, we used a dropped pin on WhatsApp and made our way to a narrow driveway. We had found the right place!

Samir gave us a tour of the farm, and we saw the goat in her new surroundings. (She has to be quarantined for 10 days to make sure she has no disease.)

Samir also has camels and cows on his farm. This baby camel was 5 days old.

We were surprised when Samir said, “I hope you can stay for 3 or 4 days! Here is your private suite. My cook is ready to cook for you, and the beach is nearby.” We were appreciative of this offer, but said we only planned to stop by for an hour-or-so and say hello. (As a small gift of appreciation, we wanted to bring him something American, so we brought him a goodie bag of Oreos and Chips Ahoy cookies. He said his grandchildren would be fans.) Next time we may accept this type of hospitality, as it would have been fascinating.

Wading in the Wadi’s

Wadi’s are natural springs that dot the landscape. Over many centuries, these wadis have been developed with falajs, or innovative irrigation troughs designed for neighbors to share water from the wadi. We hiked along these falajs to access the main pools of the wadis.

At Wadi Tiwi, a local friend Josef guided us along the falajs and helped us make our way to the central pools.

A bit further up the rocky road, we met another new friend, Mohammed, who skillfully guided us toward a waterfall and additional pools. Since there were no signs or marked paths, we were glad for the local assistance.

Less adventurous travelers can opt for Wadi Bin Khalid … (we called this “Wadi Light”) as it boasts a very short paved path from the parking lot, pay toilets, and a snack bar where tourists can have a buffet lunch. We opted to swim in this Wadi, as there were changing rooms, and it looked like there might even be a lifeguard!

Swimming in traditional Omani waters is a conservative affair, as there are guidelines for tourists:

Braving the Bimmah Sinkhole

Local legend says that this gigantic hole in the earth was made by a crashing meteor. The clear waters beckoned at 50 meters by 70 meters, and Jan had to jump in!

We learned ‘it’s all about the framing’ when it comes to some tourist recommendations. Although we found the stairway down to the sinkhole to be a “feature,” as it had a handrail–a rare sight on many cobblestone stairways–the guidebook was not so positive. It read:

“The sinkhole – formerly one of the coast’s most magical beauty spots – has now been utterly defaced in the name of tourism, with an ugly stone wall … and the steps … which has reduced the spot to a level of suburban naff.”

The officials wanted us to recognize that we were responsible for the risks involved.

We were amused to find two women conducting market research at the entrance. They were probing visitors on what could make this site more attractive to visitors. We suggested that “Sink Hole” might not be the most inviting site name. They weren’t familiar with the snarky text of the guidebook.

Forts Abound

Many of the cities hosted large forts. Some were originally built by the Portuguese in the 1700s; others were built by various Sultans over the centuries.

All were very interesting and offered expansive views from the lookout towers.

One of the unique features of the Jarbin Fort (from 1670) was some hidden passageways known as “murder holes” where the soldiers could pour boiling hot date juice on intruders as they tried to access the interior of the fort. This would have been quite the deterrent!

Fortunately, the murder holes are now empty.

A Night in the Desert

We found a professional 4×4 driver to guide us over the sand to our desert camp. He was an expert at “dune bashing” and drove us successfully to our camp.

His tires were deflated to accommodate the sand.

The sunset over the desert was breathtaking.

More 4×4 in Musandam

We traveled to Khasab in northern Oman (in an area that is not contiguous with the rest of the country) and took a 4×4 ride up the mountains with a professional driver, Harim. The road was bumpy and steep, but Jan was more relaxed with Harim at the wheel (instead of Ed!)

We also took a dhow (traditional Omani boat) cruise among the fjords. This area is often called the “Norway of Oman.” The dramatic cliffs–called “khors”–soared high above the water, and we enjoyed this relaxing cruise, lounging on pillows that graced the boat’s central area. The boat captain knew how to invite the local dolphin pods to swim to the surface and race the boat. They put on quite a show.

Thank you, Sultan Qaboos

The modernization of Oman is credited to Sultan Qaboos, who reigned from 1970 to his death in 2020.

He is beloved by all; his photo is everywhere; and many Omani landmarks bear his name. The Grand Mosque in Muscat is an excellent example of his legacy. As of the largest mosques in the Middle East, the main hall can hold 20,000 people.

Modern Oman

Unlike many authoritarian leaders, Sultan Qaboos used the revenues generated by oil production since its first oil export in 1967 to modernize the country’s infrastructure. While this post has focused on our off-road experiences, we must emphasize that the limited-access highways of Oman are fantastic, with smooth pavement and clear signage. Frankly, Oman’s highways put many roads in the Bay Area to shame. Similarly, an expansive electrical grid and 5G mobile communication reach every corner of the country. Every child has access to education, including boarding schools for those in rural areas. We visited the Museum of People and Places in Muscat–a small museum that shows family life in Oman just 50 years before oil export began. The progress toward modernization that has occurred in the last 50 years is nothing short of startling.

Farewell Oman!

Our two weeks in Oman were filled with new experiences and adventures. We were impressed with the country’s safety, warmth, and hospitality. We enjoyed meeting new friends, tasting the local food, and traveling the country independently. Although Google Maps sometimes got confused–the “lady” couldn’t read Arabic, so she would say, “Turn at the ….”–we navigated successfully and could always make a U-turn if necessary.

Amazing Antarctica

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Kayaking among whales, penguins, and seabirds in Antarctica was magical. Over several beautiful days, we paddled in awe as pods of Humpback whales fed on abundant krill less than 50 yards away.

Our kayaking group consisted of 10 guests plus two guides. The guests paddled in two-person kayaks; one guide led the way in a solo kayak; the other guide stayed close by in a Zodiac.

Whale Feeding Frenzy

We could paddle very close to magnificent icebergs and glaciers while whales fed nearby.

The whales feed on krill during their migration from the equator. We learned that Southern Hemisphere humpbacks travel from Antarctica to the equator to breed. Northern Hemisphere whales travel from the Arctic to the equator, but they never cross paths because each reaches the equator in their winter.

Bubble-net Feeding

On several occasions, we paddled close to groups of whales who were bubble-net feeding. This is a cooperative feeding method, where the senior whale instructs the others to form a circle where they trap small fish and krill in a “net” of bubbles. According to Wikipedia, “one whale will sound a feeding call, at which point all whales simultaneously swim upwards with mouths open to feed on the trapped fish.” Then, they all blow bubbles and rise out of the water at the same time, creating a very dramatic effect. When our guide noted that a bubble net was being created, she yelled loudly, “back paddle, back paddle,” and we all backed up our kayaks to avoid the crashing whales and waves created by their activities. We learned that it is the senior females in the pod who instruct the junior members on how and when to feed like this. (You go, girls!)

Penguins Abound

In addition to the whales, we also paddled near many penguin rookeries. Both the Chinstrap and the Chintoo penguins call Antarctica their home.

Penguins are very comfortable around kayakers. They check us out from the shore and swim right up to the boats.

They travel on “penguin roads” up and down the mountain to plunge into the water, find fish, and clean their feathers. Often they slide down the hills on their rears.

Antarctic Seabirds

We also saw Antarctic Shags, which have the same coloring as penguins but have long necks and can fly. They mostly live in harmony with the penguins but sometimes steal from their neighbors.

This Snowy Sheathbill–or as affectionately known, a “shit eater”–landed on our kayak, looking for food. He didn’t find anything on our kayak and returned to land … to eat penguin poop!

Sheathbills eat krill, like almost all creatures in Antarctica, but they’re not built to go into the water. Sheathbills fly nonstop from South America to Antarctica as they do not have webbed feet and can not land on water. It’s incredible how this bird has adapted to life on the White Continent.

Kayaking Was a Blast

Our gang of 10 kayakers bonded over this near-sacred experience. We learned the “man overboard” drill but never had to use it. Everyone became proficient at getting in and out of the kayak, transitioning to the Zodiac and safely returning to the ship as well as backpaddling to get away from bubble-nets.

Our kayaking guides, Ewan and Sophie, were experts in Antarctic kayaking, having taken a 14-day self-supported trip through the glaciers while making the film ICEolation which is available on Prime Video.

We grew quite fond of our dry suits and kayak skirts and were sad when we had to return them to the ship.

On-Land Adventure

On the Magellan Explorer ship, we sailed with 60 other travelers–and 60 crew members– to cruise along the icy waters, land ashore in Zodiacs, and hike to some dramatic peaks for 360-degree vistas.

We experienced a wide range of Antarctic weather – from hail that erupted during our hike during a shore visit to brilliant sunshine that danced off the dramatic icebergs.

Hail started soon after this picture was taken.

Every day we participated in a shore landing and climbed to a peak for 360-degree views.

Antarctic Air Travel

Instead of spending two days crossing Drake’s Passage by sea, our Antarctica21 expedition flew over the passage in two hours. Antarctica21 charters special planes piloted by Antarctic Airways, experts in Antarctic flight. They are designed to land safely on the short landing strip on King George Island. Since the window for a safe flight can be narrow, we waited all day for our flight to be scheduled, and in the afternoon, we learned that our flight would leave at 9:30 pm. Check out the weather! There was almost no darkness in the early-summer night.

Although we thought it was ridiculous when the guides told us to “wear your waterproof pants and boots on the plane,” we were glad we did.

At 11:30 pm, we landed on the strip and were whisked away to the shore where the Zodiacs awaited.

At midnight, we were trained on how to don our life vests and to sit safely in the Zodiacs. It was still quite bright outside!

Then, we boarded the Zodiacs and zipped through the icy water to board the ship that waited offshore. Once everyone was aboard, we participated in safety drills and learned about the ship’s emergency procedures. By 2 am, we went to bed, and the ship moved to our first landing spot. The next day the guides let us know that this type of “midnight express” was highly unusual, and they noted that all of the guests performed admirably and were in excellent spirits. We were thinking, “hmmm… I wonder if it’s going to be like this every day?” Luckily, the rest of the trip went smoothly.

Antarctica Activities

We loved our companions on the ship. There was a certain ‘like-mindedness’ among the travelers. Most had traveled widely, and Antarctica was a ‘bucket list’ item. Many were happy to land on their 7th continent.

A few hardy souls, including Jan, participated in the ‘polar plunge,’ where we jumped into the frigid waters from the ship’s landing dock. We were tethered to the dock, and luckily two strong men pulled us back in quickly.

One afternoon, our captain heard about a pod of pilot whales in the area. He skillfully maneuvered towards them and then stopped in their vicinity. The whales were playing in the sea – and seemed very curious about our ship. They swam underneath the ship and poked their heads out of the water on both sides. The experienced crew came out from the bridge to share this magical sight.

One evening, the crew prepared an outdoor barbeque, and we enjoyed hamburgers, steak, chicken, corn on the cob and all the fixings on the back deck where the boat sheltered us from the wind.

When it was time to wrap up our trip, we boarded the Zodiacs and zipped back to the landing strip. The next group of travelers arrived on this plane, and we flew back to Chile after a quick turnaround.

The serenity and beauty of the incredible White Continent profoundly touched us. After reading several harrowing accounts of the early explorers in the late 1800s and early 1900s, we feel privileged to have been able to experience Antarctica’s magnificence in absolute comfort and safety. We hope that the area is preserved in its pristine beauty for many future generations of whales, penguins, and visitors.

(As our long-time readers know, we rarely recommend specific hotels, restaurants or tour operators, but in this case, we must endorse Antartica21, the operator of our trip. The boat was almost new and very well-designed. With 60 passengers and 60 crew–composed of exploration leaders, hospitality and ship navigation teams–the Magellan Explorer was fast and agile, quickly moving from place to place so we could experience multiple locations each day. Every aspect was extremely well organized and of the highest quality, with a deep focus on safety. We strongly recommend the kayaking option as the guides are nurturing, the physical exertion is minimal, and the dry suits are quite warm. Also, note that some of the photos in this post were supplied by the photographer and kayak guides on our ship. )

We wish everyone a very happy 2023! We are delighted to be back “on the move” and hope to “assume the position” in other exotic locations in the coming year.

Patagonian Liquidity

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Ed and I spent a glorious 10 days around Bariloche and El Calafate, two major towns in Argentinian Patagonia. Everywhere we went, we were surrounded by water in all its natural forms – lakes, glaciers, rivers, waterfalls, icebergs … and in its brewed and fermented form, cerveza and Malbec!!

Lakes Abound in Bariloche

Bariloche is an adventure hub surrounded by gorgeous lakes. The 360-degree view from the top of one of the local peaks, Cerro Campanario did not disappoint!

We hiked to the top of Cerro Llao Llao for other dramatic vistas and “assumed the position”.

And we drove the famous “Ruta 40” to visit the route of the seven lakes. The weather was clear, and the water glistened in many shades of blue and turquoise.

Yellow flowers dotted the sides of the road from all directions.

And the lupin graced the fields in shades of purple and pink.

Many visitors drive Ruta 40 from Bolivia to the tip of Argentina. Some drive the iconic VW Bus.

We were surprised to see this driver!

On this route, we had a short visit with Gustavo, the stepfather of Karen, our granddaughter’s au-pair. What a small world!

The Hotel Llao Llao, built in 1939, exemplifies beauty and elegance and offers glorious views of the lakes. The hotel is majestic both inside and out and makes the Sun Valley Lodge (which we think is great) look like a baby cousin!

Magnificent Glaciers near El Calafate

We spent several magical days exploring Los Glaciares National Park, a huge area that is the size of Switzerland. It surrounds Lago Argentina, the largest lake in the country. On a day tour, we got ‘up close and personal to the Perito Moreno glacier. We enjoyed a short boat ride to experience the glacier from the North.

And we walked on an extensive network of walkways to see the glacier up close. We heard the glacier “calving,” where large ice chunks broke off from the glacier’s edge and crashed into the lake.

On another day, we took a boat ride to see the Upsala Glacier. Our boat hovered very close to magnificent icebergs. We could see 10-20% of the iceberg above the water and realized that 80-90% of the iceberg was below the surface.

At Estancia Cristina, we took a hike to a dramatic waterfall. This Estancia, only accessible by boat, was settled in 1904. We learned that the couple that settled in this area to live off the land lived to be 102 and 99! They credited glacier water as the key to longevity.

The horses are some of the few year-round residents of this remote spot.

Futbol Fever at the Cervecerías!

Since Argentina was competing in the World Cup, the nation paused during the games as the entire country tuned into the TV to watch the games. Many people wore their blue and white jerseys.

For Game #2 (vs Mexico), we settled into a lovely outdoor pub in Buenos Aires. The fans went wild as each goal was scored. All the attendees sang the National Anthem and all of the soccer songs with pride. Folks were a bit nervous after the Game #1 loss to Saudi Arabia. But they were thrilled with the 2-1 victory.

For Game #3 (vs Poland), we found a Cervecería in Bariloche. The 2-0 victory vs Poland had the fans cheering, “Messi … Messi … Messi!”

We watched the Semi-Finals (vs. Australia) in El Calafate. Again, the fans went wild with the 2-1 victory. The excitement was similar to what we observed on a previous trip to Latin America during the World Cup in 2014. Also, Ed experienced the fever in 1970 while living in Brazil as a high school exchange student. Pele led the team that brought home the Copa do Mundo.

And Don’t Forget the Malbec!

Another liquid delight in Argentina is the ubiquitous Malbec. We enjoyed many versions of this during our stay. At one restaurant, we selected our wine from this walk-in cellar instead of a wine list.

At another restaurant, we sampled Catalpa wine, which reminded us of our address in Atherton.

All choices — from the house wine at $2 in Buenos Aires to a more premium
$8 selection — were delicious! And, they were a delightful accompaniment to the local lamb shepherd pie and stew.

Financial Liquidity? Not so much…

With the turmoil facing the Argentinian Peso, we learned that there are many different exchange rates for the USD. The banks offer the “official exchange rate” of 170 pesos/dollar. This is the rate you get if you use a credit card or an ATM. Hotels and other tourist locations accept USD (cash) at a rate of 290 pesos/dollar. This is known as the “blue rate.” But, if you send money to yourself at Western Union using a US debit card, the rate is 324 pesos/dollar. We chose the latter option, so all of our cash expenses came at a deep discount. Luckily we didn’t have to stand in line to get cash, and we didn’t face any shortages, which we learned are common. There is a website that changes daily that shows all of the updated rates. For small businessmen, such as our lodge keeper near Bariloche, dealing with inflation and exchange rates is a constant challenge. Argentina presents an amazing opportunity for foreign travelers to travel well on a small budget. For example, we had dinner for two at a steakhouse restaurant in a beautiful Buenos Aires neighborhood. In San Francisco, this meal, including our fine Malbec, would have cost perhaps $100 per person. In Buenos Aires, the cost was about $20.

So, our trip through Patagonia was a liquid delight! Given that we used the Western Union option to get our pesos, we also had financial liquidity … at a deep discount! Next Stop: Antarctica!

Stay tuned…

Amazing Azores

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After our April visit to Madeira, Ed and I traveled to two islands in the Azores – Terceira and San Miguel. Both of these Portuguese islands are luscious and green – definitely worthy of their nicknames “Islas Verdes.” The Azores benefit from both the rich landscape and the ever-present seascape.

Travels in Terceira

In Terceira, we were captivated by the green hills that were criss-crossed by grids of lava-stone walls.

Cows Abound!

Terciera has more “bovine” residents than human residents, and these cows enjoy the enclaves created by the walls. In addition to providing enclosures, these picturesque walls enable farmers to clear pastures for grazing, not dissimilar from the early New England settlers who built stone walls around their farmland. Often we were “up close and personal” with the cows, as they sometimes wandered along the small roads that traverse the island.

Cows are everywhere, and they produce an abundance of dairy products. We enjoyed cheese tasting at some local farms. Also, the beef was incredible. We dined at Restaurante da Associacao Agricola, operated by the beef ranchers association, where the steaks were terrific (and some of the largest we’d ever eaten).

Terceira’s lush landscapes and island setting inspire some unique Azorean cuisine. The Molha de Carne is a traditional beef stew of local ingredients served for two or more.

Freshest Fish Imaginable

At Taberna Roberto, a small family restaurant, we selected our fish from the “catch of the day” and enjoyed its excellent preparation.

While Taberna Roberto is listed in Trip Advisor as the #1 restaurant in this area of the Azores, we were a bit surprised that it barely beat out Subway which is ranked #2. (!)

We based ourselves in Angra de Heroismo, a UNESCO World Heritage City, with many impressive buildings from the 1600s. These reflect Portugal’s prowess as a mighty sea trader. The ubiquitous Black and White mosaic pavement reminded us of Rio de Janeiro.

And, we relaxed in our cottage on the property of Vale dos Milhafres. Henry, our host, was especially gracious and helpful and pointed us to his favorite sites and restaurants. The sunsets were beautiful from our patio.

Getting around this small island in our rental car was easy as the roads are quite well designed and maintained and there is little traffic.

Savoring San Miguel

Continuing our journey of unique “eats” in the Azores, we headed to Furnas on San Miguel to try the “cozido das furnas”, a delicacy cooked in a bubbling pit in the ground heated by a volcano. Before lunch, we witnessed the chefs lifting the stew from the holes in the ground.

Then we joined a large crowd of families to try this delicacy at “Restaurante Tony’s.”

These volcanic pools reminded us of the bubbling pits around Yellowstone.

Octopus Anyone?

Another interesting delicacy was “polvo guisado” (octopus in red wine) – only served in a small town of Mosteiros, on the northern tip of the island. This restaurant was a bit tricky to find, as Google Maps is not very accurate in this area. The restaurant appeared to be closed, but when we entered, a waiter popped up from behind the bar and was happy to serve us.

Hot Tub in the Atlantic

The proximity to the ocean not only offers incredible views and seafood, but offers a chance to dunk in a natural hot tub in a cove heated by a volcano. We would recommend other travelers to try this at low tide (10 am in our case), as our visit at noon was a bit rough. We (and other intrepid tourists) hiked down to the cove and carefully lowered ourselves down a slippery, moss-ladened ladder to enter the hot water. The tide rushed in and out, causing a natural jacuzzi effect. Ropes connected to the rocks allowed for everyone to hang on, ensuring that no one was washed out to sea. When we hoisted ourselves back up the ladder, we looked at each other with a grin that said, “Yea, we survived! Next time it will be at low tide! Later, we saw a photo of waves crashing over this cove at 5 pm.

Tea and Pineapple — Who Knew?

The landscape also allows growing of two more interesting crops – tea and pineapple. The Cha Gorreana plantation is the only place where tea is grown in Europe. Dating from the 1880s, they still use some of the original equipment to sort and pack the tea. The fields reminded us of our visit to a tea plantation in Sri Lanka. (One difference is that the tea is picked by hand in Sri Lanka, while they use machines to pick the tea on San Miguel.)

Also, Paulo, our host in Ponta Delgada (the capital city on San Miguel) grows pineapple in hot houses on his property. Paulo has been working with the plants in these hot houses since he was six years old , when he worked here with his father who was a paid-laborer working with the pineapples. When the property became available, Paulo purchased it and created two rental cottages on the property. He carries on the pineapple grower tradition with an abundant crop. The pineapples are delicious!

Beautiful Hiking Trails

The hiking around San Miguel island was superb. Many trails criss-cross the mountains. We especially enjoyed the scenery at Sete Cidades, which boasts two connected lakes. On a clear day, one appears green and the other blue, due to the shadows from the surrounding cliffs. When we visited, the sky was cloudy and the color of the lakes looked similar, but they were still beautiful.

We assumed the “position” and another hiker snapped our picture in the middle of the blue lake.

The Azores – California Connection

Prior to our trip, we read The Tenth Island, a memoir written by Diana Marcum, an LA Times reporter who traveled between the Central Valley of California and Terceira. There is an intimate connection between these two locations, since many dairy farmers fled poverty in Terceira in the early part of the 20th Century and settled in Central Valley towns like Fresno, Lemore, Madera, and Modesto. In this memoir the author describes her year-long stay on Terceira and presents vignettes about her travel and connections around the island. Also, there is a strong connection between other islands of the Azores and New Bedford and Fall River, Massachusetts where Azoreans settled to earn money from their fishing skills. Paulo, our host in San Miguel frequently visits his relatives in New Bedford. In the small world category, this is one of the towns we will go through during our upcoming Massachusetts bike trip. Stay tuned.

If You Go

We relied on the following travel guide, as we knew no one who had spent a week in the Azores: Top 10 Azores. And, definitely read The Tenth Island for local flavor.

In Terceira we highly recommend booking directly with Henry at Vale dos Milhafres. He was extremely helpful and accommodating. You can contact him on Facebook.

In San Miguel, we recommend Paulo’s place, The Pineapple Studio. It’s in a convenient location and Paulo will take great care of you!

Note to readers: Our blog posts now contain affiliate links, including for the Amazon Associates program. If you click or buy from one of these links, we may earn a small commission.

Fun in Funchal

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Ed and I spent the first week of April exploring and savoring the island of Madeira, Portugal. We were based in Funchal, the capital city. Madeira had never been on our radar, and we knew no one who had spent time here, so we plunged ahead without knowing what to expect. We found that the island was completely set up for tourism and was a mecca for Europeans who were escaping cold winters.

Whooshing Down the Mountain

As a nod to the traditions of the island, one of the main tourist attractions is a two-kilometer “sled ride” down the mountain in a traditional wicker sled on skis. Yikes! We paid 30 Euros and waited in line for our “drivers” to prepare our sled. They wore traditional white uniforms with rubber-soled shoes to help them brake our sled, steering with ropes attached to the skis. It took about 15 minutes to get down the mountain. What a trip!

The “technology” is the same as it was in the 1890s when the sled was the only way to get down the “Monte” mountain in Funchal, other than walking. Sleds can reach a cruising speed of 38 km/hour.

Communing with Whales and Dolphins

We joined a group on a Zodiac ride in the ocean to say hello to bottlenose dolphins and pilot whales. They obliged and put on quite a show around our boat. This part of the ocean is home to 28 different species of cetaceans (dolphins and whales) in various seasons of the year. The ones we saw were local to the area, and not just passing through on their migration path.

Hiking the Lavadas of Madeira

Since Madeira is very, very mountainous, the locals created a way to capture rainwater from the high mountains and bring it to the fields below. The elaborate system of “levadas” weaves its way around the mountains and provides water to fields below. You can hike along the waterways and see this incredible engineering. There are 2500 kilometers of levadas on the island.

Sometimes the open levada canals are funneled into a pipe that tunnels through the mountain. We found one of these tunnels and hiked a kilometer in the pitch dark. Luckily we had our mobile phones and could turn on the flashlight. More prepared hikers had their headlamps at the ready. One less prepared hiker told us his phone was dead so he decided to follow us through the tunnel guided by our light. We were happy to help!

Vistas Above the Clouds

At the 6000-foot summit of Pico do Arieiro, the third highest mountain on the island, we enjoyed the vistas and assumed the position above the clouds.

To get here from Funchal, we took a winding 15-kilometer drive. There are many beautiful hiking trails on the island and lots of adventure groups come here for a week or more.

Small Towns Offer Charm

As we drove around the island we saw many small towns nestled in the hillsides and fishing villages hugging the coast. Madeira’s roads are well signed and in excellent condition with many long tunnels and roundabouts. Driving with the guidance of Google Maps was quite pleasant with little traffic. It was definitely worth it to leave the bustle of Funchal to experience a more authentic taste of traditional Madeira life.

The coastal village of Ponta do Sol is supposed to be the sunniest spot on this island. However, we visited on a not-so-sunny day.

Winston Churchill was inspired to paint in the village of Câmara de Lobos.

At the Miradouro do Cabo Girão, the views from the skywalk on one of the highest cliffs in Europe were dramatic.

Visiting with A College Friend

In the “small world” category, we heard in advance that one of Jan’s college friends and his wife would also be visiting Madeira at the same time. So, we emailed them and set up a rendezvous. Given that we both were previously unaware of this island, this was truly a coincidence!

Cristiano Ronaldo Airport

The Madeira airport, named after Cristiano Ronaldo, Madeira’s favorite son and soccer star, hosts a wide variety of discount airlines from Europe, including Peter Pan (!) and EasyJet. Historically, it was a treacherous airport for landing – given the lack of flat plains on this very mountainous island. Portuguese engineering solved this problem in 2000 by extending the runway to 2781 meters with 180 ingenious pillars over the sea that extend the runway to allow for safe and smooth takeoff and landing. The airport itself is a tourist attraction!

Also, Azores Airlines now offers a non-stop flight from JFK to Madeira. This flight was advertised in a “TravelZoo” promotional newsletter, which sparked our interest in coming here, although Ed’s interest in trying to use his Brazilian Portuguese in a Portugal territory was also a motivator.

Tourism Infrastructure Abounds

Madeira boasts an incredible number of hotels and apartments catering to tourists of all types. Our Airbnb which had an incredible ocean view was owned by a Russian woman who communicated with us in English. Our local AirBnB host was Ukrainian. Most restaurants have menus in multiple languages and there are numerous tour operators who offer tours to the Levadas, hiking trips, boat rides, and 4×4 experiences. Virtually everyone working around tourists speaks English to some extent. When Ed spoke to people in Portuguese, most of the time they responded in English, much to his disappointment. We were told that 80% of the tourists come from countries other than Portugal, so English fluency is a necessity.

We enjoyed our week in Madeira. Is it a “must-see?” Not really. But, it is very well set up for tourism, the main industry. Many cruise ships visit for the day, and the city seems to be able to handle the onslaught of tourists with aplomb. We heard many different languages but saw very few Americans. It’s a pleasant place with many activities for tourists and a relaxing environment.

If You Go

We relied on these two books: Lonely Planet Madeira and Top 10 Madeira. Both were helpful. We rented a car for the week, but really only needed it when we drove out of town. So, we could have rented it for half the time and saved money. We also read numerous blog posts about visiting the island. And, we heeded the advice of this sign:

Jan

March 5, 2022

Ketchum: NordicTown USA

Over the last few months, Ed and I have enjoyed many cross-country skiing adventures around Ketchum, Idaho. With over 250 kilometers of ski trails around the Wood River Valley, it’s truly a cross-country mecca.

We’ve been practicing both types of cross country skiing – skate skiing and classic skiing.

Jan Joins the Vamps

To improve my skills–or lack thereof–in skate skiing, I signed up for an eight-week coaching program in skate-skiing with a group of women called the Vamps, coached by Erin Zell, the proprietor of Galena Lodge.

Although our group was labeled “intermediate”, I soon learned that this word means different things in different locations. In any sporting activity in Ketchum, “intermediate” means “quite experienced, super fit, and willing to tackle elevation changes with aplomb.” (We had noticed this fitness level during our gravel biking last summer.) Needless to say, in my group of eight skiers, I was the least fit, especially at the beginning when I had just arrived at 5980 ft elevation from San Francisco. But, I aimed for “most improved”, as I had a long way to go.

Jan is skate skiing with the VAMPS in Ketchum

We learned various skate skiing techniques – V1, V2, and V2 Alternate. We met at the Lake Creek trailhead, and skied on the same trails that are used for Olympic Qualifying races! (More about that later.) It is quite an aerobic workout! In fact, some commentators have labeled skate skiing as “the toughest outdoor sport in the world, it requires a unique combination of strength, speed, and endurance.” So, I probably deserve a bit of slack here!

Over the season, the temperature ranged from 10 degrees (love the hand warmers) to 50 degrees (pile on the sunscreen). The snow changed according to the temperature, which made the skiing even more challenging!

Sydney Attacks The Trails

The Wood River Valley offers two beautiful sets of trails–-over 200 kilometers groomed by the Blaine County Recreation District (BCRD) and 40 kilometers groomed by the Sun Valley Resort. Further north there are additional trails at Alturas Lake and Stanley.

When Ed and I ski together, we usually opt for classic skiing – a slightly easier and less demanding style. And, we select trails where dogs are allowed. Sydney is a willing participant in these activities. She pursues a distinctive style of skiing–“the roll”–which we expect will be added shortly to the roster of standard skate-skiing techniques.

The Resort trails offer incredible views of Bald Mountain.

Sydney on skiing trails in Ketchum Idaho.

Olympic Trials

In January, we volunteered at the Sun Valley Nordic International Invitational ski race, held at the same location where Jan practiced her skate skiing (!). Our job, which started at 7 am, was to pass out the numbered bibs to the various race teams.

Ed volunteering at cross country skiing race in Ketchum

Jan volunteering at cross country skiing race in Ketchum

Each racer was assigned a timing device.

We were excited to see 450 of the best Nordic skiers in the US compete, including Rosie Brennan who won the 5K women’s race. After completing this race, we noticed she wasn’t at all out of breath–unlike Jan’s experience on this course. A couple of weeks later, Rosie came in sixth in the 30K race at the Beijing Olympics. On the downhills, the elite racers reached thirty miles per hour coming into a sharp turn.

More Winter Sports

Ketchum also offers other snow sports, including downhill skiing and snowshoeing. One of the highlights of this winter was our visit from our son Ben and his family. Our granddaughter tried snowshoeing for the first time and loved it!

She also enjoyed walking around the snow in the stroller with her “Nana Jan.”

During Ellie’s time with us, another visitor arrived to enjoy the frozen chokecherries on the tree just in front of our house.

For the first sixty days of 2022, Ketchum has been beautiful, following a plentiful snow dump at the end of last year. The temperature remained below freezing so the snow in town was clean and fluffy; however, there has been almost no new snowfall in the past couple of months. March has brought a succession of very warm days and our snow cover is disappearing rapidly, at least a month before the ski season typically ends.

Winter has almost come to an end, and soon we’ll need to store our skis and snowshoes. But, we look forward to next winter when we can play in the snow again.