Kayaking among whales, penguins, and seabirds in Antarctica was magical. Over several beautiful days, we paddled in awe as pods of Humpback whales fed on abundant krill less than 50 yards away.
Our kayaking group consisted of 10 guests plus two guides. The guests paddled in two-person kayaks; one guide led the way in a solo kayak; the other guide stayed close by in a Zodiac.
Whale Feeding Frenzy
We could paddle very close to magnificent icebergs and glaciers while whales fed nearby.
The whales feed on krill during their migration from the equator. We learned that Southern Hemisphere humpbacks travel from Antarctica to the equator to breed. Northern Hemisphere whales travel from the Arctic to the equator, but they never cross paths because each reaches the equator in their winter.
Bubble-net Feeding
On several occasions, we paddled close to groups of whales who were bubble-net feeding. This is a cooperative feeding method, where the senior whale instructs the others to form a circle where they trap small fish and krill in a “net” of bubbles. According to Wikipedia, “one whale will sound a feeding call, at which point all whales simultaneously swim upwards with mouths open to feed on the trapped fish.” Then, they all blow bubbles and rise out of the water at the same time, creating a very dramatic effect. When our guide noted that a bubble net was being created, she yelled loudly, “back paddle, back paddle,” and we all backed up our kayaks to avoid the crashing whales and waves created by their activities. We learned that it is the senior females in the pod who instruct the junior members on how and when to feed like this. (You go, girls!)
Penguins Abound
In addition to the whales, we also paddled near many penguin rookeries. Both the Chinstrap and the Chintoo penguins call Antarctica their home.
Penguins are very comfortable around kayakers. They check us out from the shore and swim right up to the boats.
They travel on “penguin roads” up and down the mountain to plunge into the water, find fish, and clean their feathers. Often they slide down the hills on their rears.
Antarctic Seabirds
We also saw Antarctic Shags, which have the same coloring as penguins but have long necks and can fly. They mostly live in harmony with the penguins but sometimes steal from their neighbors.
This Snowy Sheathbill–or as affectionately known, a “shit eater”–landed on our kayak, looking for food. He didn’t find anything on our kayak and returned to land … to eat penguin poop!
Sheathbills eat krill, like almost all creatures in Antarctica, but they’re not built to go into the water. Sheathbills fly nonstop from South America to Antarctica as they do not have webbed feet and can not land on water. It’s incredible how this bird has adapted to life on the White Continent.
Kayaking Was a Blast
Our gang of 10 kayakers bonded over this near-sacred experience. We learned the “man overboard” drill but never had to use it. Everyone became proficient at getting in and out of the kayak, transitioning to the Zodiac and safely returning to the ship as well as backpaddling to get away from bubble-nets.
Our kayaking guides, Ewan and Sophie, were experts in Antarctic kayaking, having taken a 14-day self-supported trip through the glaciers while making the film ICEolation which is available on Prime Video.
We grew quite fond of our dry suits and kayak skirts and were sad when we had to return them to the ship.
On-Land Adventure
On the Magellan Explorer ship, we sailed with 60 other travelers–and 60 crew members– to cruise along the icy waters, land ashore in Zodiacs, and hike to some dramatic peaks for 360-degree vistas.
We experienced a wide range of Antarctic weather – from hail that erupted during our hike during a shore visit to brilliant sunshine that danced off the dramatic icebergs.
Hail started soon after this picture was taken.
Every day we participated in a shore landing and climbed to a peak for 360-degree views.
Antarctic Air Travel
Instead of spending two days crossing Drake’s Passage by sea, our Antarctica21 expedition flew over the passage in two hours. Antarctica21 charters special planes piloted by Antarctic Airways, experts in Antarctic flight. They are designed to land safely on the short landing strip on King George Island. Since the window for a safe flight can be narrow, we waited all day for our flight to be scheduled, and in the afternoon, we learned that our flight would leave at 9:30 pm. Check out the weather! There was almost no darkness in the early-summer night.
Although we thought it was ridiculous when the guides told us to “wear your waterproof pants and boots on the plane,” we were glad we did.
At 11:30 pm, we landed on the strip and were whisked away to the shore where the Zodiacs awaited.
At midnight, we were trained on how to don our life vests and to sit safely in the Zodiacs. It was still quite bright outside!
Then, we boarded the Zodiacs and zipped through the icy water to board the ship that waited offshore. Once everyone was aboard, we participated in safety drills and learned about the ship’s emergency procedures. By 2 am, we went to bed, and the ship moved to our first landing spot. The next day the guides let us know that this type of “midnight express” was highly unusual, and they noted that all of the guests performed admirably and were in excellent spirits. We were thinking, “hmmm… I wonder if it’s going to be like this every day?” Luckily, the rest of the trip went smoothly.
Antarctica Activities
We loved our companions on the ship. There was a certain ‘like-mindedness’ among the travelers. Most had traveled widely, and Antarctica was a ‘bucket list’ item. Many were happy to land on their 7th continent.
A few hardy souls, including Jan, participated in the ‘polar plunge,’ where we jumped into the frigid waters from the ship’s landing dock. We were tethered to the dock, and luckily two strong men pulled us back in quickly.
One afternoon, our captain heard about a pod of pilot whales in the area. He skillfully maneuvered towards them and then stopped in their vicinity. The whales were playing in the sea – and seemed very curious about our ship. They swam underneath the ship and poked their heads out of the water on both sides. The experienced crew came out from the bridge to share this magical sight.
One evening, the crew prepared an outdoor barbeque, and we enjoyed hamburgers, steak, chicken, corn on the cob and all the fixings on the back deck where the boat sheltered us from the wind.
When it was time to wrap up our trip, we boarded the Zodiacs and zipped back to the landing strip. The next group of travelers arrived on this plane, and we flew back to Chile after a quick turnaround.
The serenity and beauty of the incredible White Continent profoundly touched us. After reading several harrowing accounts of the early explorers in the late 1800s and early 1900s, we feel privileged to have been able to experience Antarctica’s magnificence in absolute comfort and safety. We hope that the area is preserved in its pristine beauty for many future generations of whales, penguins, and visitors.
(As our long-time readers know, we rarely recommend specific hotels, restaurants or tour operators, but in this case, we must endorse Antartica21, the operator of our trip. The boat was almost new and very well-designed. With 60 passengers and 60 crew–composed of exploration leaders, hospitality and ship navigation teams–the Magellan Explorer was fast and agile, quickly moving from place to place so we could experience multiple locations each day. Every aspect was extremely well organized and of the highest quality, with a deep focus on safety. We strongly recommend the kayaking option as the guides are nurturing, the physical exertion is minimal, and the dry suits are quite warm. Also, note that some of the photos in this post were supplied by the photographer and kayak guides on our ship. )
We wish everyone a very happy 2023! We are delighted to be back “on the move” and hope to “assume the position” in other exotic locations in the coming year.
