At the end of March, Ed and I spent a wonderful week at Rancho Las Cruces — a private resort on the Sea of Cortez in Baja California. The setting did most of the heavy lifting: pristine waters, blue skies, whales breaching off the shoreline, dramatic sunsets.
The most magical part was spending time with our grand kids – Eloise (5) and Beau (2 ½), and their parents – Emma and Ben.
Part of the joy was being unplugged. Ed and I hadn’t gone a week without our laptops in longer than either of us cared to admit. Instead, we splashed in the pool with Eloise, received a comprehensive education from Beau on the intricacies of Paw Patrol and — more importantly — construction equipment, built sandcastles, read books, and remembered what it feels like to do absolutely nothing on purpose.
Activities Abound
We were definitely not sedentary.
A kayak trip to a remote beach turned up new treasures and great swimming.
Eloise added several specimens to her shell museum (curatorial standards: high).
Ping-pong was fast and furious.
Mini-golf and croquet became prime pre-dinner sports.
We played pickleball, and made up stories by the pool. Beau was often a rocket ship who was cruising the galaxy. He would run around the pool upon lift off.
Snorkeling revealed a vast underwater world of fish and urchins. The ocean floor, however, was rocky enough that I am now the proud owner of water sandals, purchased the moment we landed back in California. Lesson learned. Feet noted.
Speaking of feet: Ed acquired an intense sunburn on his feet and calves on day one. Turns out the parts of you that have never seen the sun are the parts that take it personally.
The pool was shallow and perfect for play. The kids invented new games, the runaway favorite being “Let’s Dunk Nana and PopPop!” — pure, joyful chaos, with Eloise as ringleader. There is nothing quite like watching a five-year-old discover the feeling of power.
A Hike to the Chapel
A small open-air chapel sits on a hill overlooking the sandy beaches. Newish-looking mosaics of the Stations of the Cross adorn the walls. Emma’s brother Tim was married in this church in 2013. We weren’t at the wedding (Ben and Emma were early in their relationship, and we hadn’t quite crossed into “family” territory yet), but between photos, videos, and stories, it felt like we had been there. Standing in the church, it was easy to picture Ben on the balcony with his guitar as the bridal procession passed below.
Dorado, Anyone?
Ben caught a 5-kilo dorado (Mahi Mahi to friends) on a fishing trip in a rustic, traditional boat. It happened fast — Ben did all the work, with the captain offering oversight rather than rescue.
The captain helped him reel it in, and he was able to pose for the proud photo!
That night, we ate the freshest imaginable ceviche and sashimi. Delicious!
Private Dancing Lesson
On our last evening, Eloise was presented with a dress made for her by the Las Cruces staff. She’d half-expected it — her older cousin Maelyn had the same experience on a previous visit — but the magic held. A local professional dancer, accompanied by a guitarist, taught her traditional Mexican steps, and then gave us a personal performance.
And then — without warning, without preamble — a belly dancer appeared. Who knew that belly dancers were popular in Mexico? It was strange and wonderful, completely out of place and entirely fun.
History Around Every Corner
The Las Cruces resort just celebrated its 75th anniversary. Emma has been visiting since childhood — her parents were members starting in the ’80s — and many of the staff still know her. There was something sentimental about watching her watch her own kids run around the place where she’d run around as a kid.
The history goes deeper. Soon after the resort was founded, it became a Hollywood escape — Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz built a home on the property. Their house has a guitar-shaped pool out front, a nod to Desi’s other life as a musician and bandleader (the comedic actor and producer hats came later).
His tombstone sits just outside the side of the chapel, which got Ed wondering whether future generations will even know who Lucy and Desi were, or carry the indelible image of Lucy and Ethel at the chocolate factory conveyor belt, stuffing candies into their mouths, hats, and shirtfronts as the line sped up. Some cultural touchstones don’t survive the handoff. We hope this one does.
But the deeper history dates to 1536, when Hernán Cortés landed here. He thought he’d found an island and named it Santa Cruz. Three crosses were planted on the hill — Las Cruces — and the replicas stand in the same spot today. (Ed nearly slipped while climbing to the these crosses in flip flops. Next time, he’ll wear shoes.)
Thankful for Everything!
We were grateful for the chance to unplug and be together. No TSA drama, no flight chaos, no immigration adventures — just good food, good times, and memories we’ll keep coming back to.
