Patagonian Liquidity

Ed and I spent a glorious 10 days around Bariloche and El Calafate, two major towns in Argentinian Patagonia. Everywhere we went, we were surrounded by water in all its natural forms – lakes, glaciers, rivers, waterfalls, icebergs … and in its brewed and fermented form, cerveza and Malbec!!

Lakes Abound in Bariloche

Bariloche is an adventure hub surrounded by gorgeous lakes. The 360-degree view from the top of one of the local peaks, Cerro Campanario did not disappoint!

We hiked to the top of Cerro Llao Llao for other dramatic vistas and “assumed the position”.

And we drove the famous “Ruta 40” to visit the route of the seven lakes. The weather was clear, and the water glistened in many shades of blue and turquoise.

Yellow flowers dotted the sides of the road from all directions.

And the lupin graced the fields in shades of purple and pink.

Many visitors drive Ruta 40 from Bolivia to the tip of Argentina. Some drive the iconic VW Bus.

We were surprised to see this driver!

On this route, we had a short visit with Gustavo, the stepfather of Karen, our granddaughter’s au-pair. What a small world!

The Hotel Llao Llao, built in 1939, exemplifies beauty and elegance and offers glorious views of the lakes. The hotel is majestic both inside and out and makes the Sun Valley Lodge (which we think is great) look like a baby cousin!

Magnificent Glaciers near El Calafate

We spent several magical days exploring Los Glaciares National Park, a huge area that is the size of Switzerland. It surrounds Lago Argentina, the largest lake in the country. On a day tour, we got ‘up close and personal to the Perito Moreno glacier. We enjoyed a short boat ride to experience the glacier from the North.

And we walked on an extensive network of walkways to see the glacier up close. We heard the glacier “calving,” where large ice chunks broke off from the glacier’s edge and crashed into the lake.

On another day, we took a boat ride to see the Upsala Glacier. Our boat hovered very close to magnificent icebergs. We could see 10-20% of the iceberg above the water and realized that 80-90% of the iceberg was below the surface.

At Estancia Cristina, we took a hike to a dramatic waterfall. This Estancia, only accessible by boat, was settled in 1904. We learned that the couple that settled in this area to live off the land lived to be 102 and 99! They credited glacier water as the key to longevity.

The horses are some of the few year-round residents of this remote spot.

Futbol Fever at the Cervecerías!

Since Argentina was competing in the World Cup, the nation paused during the games as the entire country tuned into the TV to watch the games. Many people wore their blue and white jerseys.

For Game #2 (vs Mexico), we settled into a lovely outdoor pub in Buenos Aires. The fans went wild as each goal was scored. All the attendees sang the National Anthem and all of the soccer songs with pride. Folks were a bit nervous after the Game #1 loss to Saudi Arabia. But they were thrilled with the 2-1 victory.

For Game #3 (vs Poland), we found a Cervecería in Bariloche. The 2-0 victory vs Poland had the fans cheering, “Messi … Messi … Messi!”

We watched the Semi-Finals (vs. Australia) in El Calafate. Again, the fans went wild with the 2-1 victory. The excitement was similar to what we observed on a previous trip to Latin America during the World Cup in 2014. Also, Ed experienced the fever in 1970 while living in Brazil as a high school exchange student. Pele led the team that brought home the Copa do Mundo.

And Don’t Forget the Malbec!

Another liquid delight in Argentina is the ubiquitous Malbec. We enjoyed many versions of this during our stay. At one restaurant, we selected our wine from this walk-in cellar instead of a wine list.

At another restaurant, we sampled Catalpa wine, which reminded us of our address in Atherton.

All choices — from the house wine at $2 in Buenos Aires to a more premium
$8 selection — were delicious! And, they were a delightful accompaniment to the local lamb shepherd pie and stew.

Financial Liquidity? Not so much…

With the turmoil facing the Argentinian Peso, we learned that there are many different exchange rates for the USD. The banks offer the “official exchange rate” of 170 pesos/dollar. This is the rate you get if you use a credit card or an ATM. Hotels and other tourist locations accept USD (cash) at a rate of 290 pesos/dollar. This is known as the “blue rate.” But, if you send money to yourself at Western Union using a US debit card, the rate is 324 pesos/dollar. We chose the latter option, so all of our cash expenses came at a deep discount. Luckily we didn’t have to stand in line to get cash, and we didn’t face any shortages, which we learned are common. There is a website that changes daily that shows all of the updated rates. For small businessmen, such as our lodge keeper near Bariloche, dealing with inflation and exchange rates is a constant challenge. Argentina presents an amazing opportunity for foreign travelers to travel well on a small budget. For example, we had dinner for two at a steakhouse restaurant in a beautiful Buenos Aires neighborhood. In San Francisco, this meal, including our fine Malbec, would have cost perhaps $100 per person. In Buenos Aires, the cost was about $20.

So, our trip through Patagonia was a liquid delight! Given that we used the Western Union option to get our pesos, we also had financial liquidity … at a deep discount! Next Stop: Antarctica!

Stay tuned…

“Best of All, He Loved the Fall…”

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Hemingway memorialized these words about Sun Valley, Idaho, in 1939. His thoughts hold true today as Ed and I have enjoyed this October’s beautiful weather, colorful foliage and an endless variety of activities, including biking, sheep festivities, a jazz festival and wine tasting.

Biking Along Warm Springs Creek

Right outside of our door, we can embark on a world-class bike ride along a gravel road that parallels Warm Springs Creek.

Even though it’s always beautiful, the 20-mile bike ride to Frenchman’s Hot Springs presented a riot of color when we rode there this month.

Aspens were ablaze in shades of yellow, orange and red. Ed even found a tree that matched his jersey.

Sunlight danced on the water, Aspen leaves fluttered in the breeze and the afternoon shadows encroached on the winding road.

We saw very few other bikers or drivers on this gravel route. However, the “washboard style” ruts in the road reflected heavy use over the last 60 days. This road was much smoother in early summer, as it is graded in the Spring. Campers, fishermen, UPS drivers, dirt bikers and other adventurers use this road to reach streams, camping, and other activities. During our fall ride, only the ruts remained. We tried to avoid them whenever possible because they provide a full-body jiggle when encountered directly!

The Hot Springs were empty when we visited. During the summer, many bathers enjoy the therapeutic waters and beautiful setting.

Celebrating All Things Sheep

The Trailing of the Sheep festival celebrated its 33rd anniversary. We attended the parade with many tributes to the heritage of the Wood River Valley. Shepherds and their horses paraded down Main Street.

Peruvian dancers demonstrated their prowess, Basque swordsmen wore traditional dress and bagpipers blasted out tunes.

The local rabbi blessed the occasion by blowing the Shofar.

And, at the end of the parade, a large flock of sheep ran down Main Street. They were transferring from the high mountain areas to warmer, lower grounds for the winter.

Some of the sheep weren’t completely satisfied following the crowd.

Sheep Dog Competition

One of the more interesting “scenes” was the Sheepdog Trials. This was a four-day event showcasing the prowess of sheepdogs and their control over a flock of sheep. We watched a competition where each dog competitor was timed as they herded four sheep through an obstacle course of fences, gates and corrals, culminating in separating the four sheep into two pairs. The finale included corralling the sheep into a pen. The dogs were directed by their handler, who used hand signals and whistles to communicate. Many of the competing teams were very skilled.

Sheep dog corrals sheep in Sun Valley — The dog corrals the sheep into the area marked by cones.

The dogs were rewarded in a cool plunge after their turn.

Some of the teams were “DQ’ed” (disqualified). This included one team which allowed a wayward sheep to leave the competition area and jump right between Jan and Ed, who were viewing the competition from a distance. We can testify that this sheep was very large … and smelly! It happened so fast, and the sheep avoided stepping on us – instead, he found a gap between our chairs and sailed right over us! Yikes. (This happened too fast for a photo!)

Wool Festival

All types of sheep products were celebrated at an interesting Crafts Festival in Hailey. Wool was spun and dyed before our eyes, and interested customers purchased cheeses, handmade hats, sweaters, and wool accessories. The variety and creativity of the items were exquisite!

Sun Valley Jazz and Music Festival

The Sun Valley Jazz Festival is a 5-day extravaganza celebrating all things jazz. Musical acts from all over the country congregate at the Sun Valley Inn. They perform in 5 venues and offer a variety from zydeco to big band to piano duels to blues and beyond. Most groups were very talented and delighted to be back on stage after a two-year hiatus.

Tom Rigney & Flambeau added a Cajun flair.

The Midiri brothers were our favorites. Amazing talent on woodwinds and vibraphone.

Dueling pianos was one of Jan’s favorite acts. Such talent!

Ed and I often feel like we’re the oldest members at some events. But, we brought down the average age at this festival, as it was quite a senior crowd. No wonder AARP is a sponsor!

Many festival attendees bring their AirStream trailers and park in the River Run ski area parking lot.

We joked that the Gulfstream private jet maintenance trailer parks in the Sun Valley Airport during the annual Allen Conference for the billionaire summer camp in July. Perhaps the AirStream maintenance trailer should park in this lot in October!

Wine Tasting in Glenns Ferry

Jan had the chance to visit Glenns Ferry, Idaho, a town of around 1300 people known for the “Two Island Crossing” of the Oregon Trail. In the late 1850s, pioneers forded the treacherous Snake River at this point. Later, a ferry was established. According to the Glenns Ferry website:

In 1869 Gustavus Glenn built a ferry boat so that his wagons and others could cross the Snake River without the danger of driving horse and oxen teams through the treacherous waters. By this time traffic on the Oregon trail was heavy in both directions. His ferry crossed the Snake River about a mile downstream from where Glenns Ferry, the community, is today.

Today, the town hosts several wineries, including the Y Knot Winery. On an October Saturday, the restaurant and bar were hopping! Jan met her high school friends at the winery and decided to sample the varietals.

Deborah, Cheri, and Jan — friends since 7th grade!

Each sample was clearly identified. Deborah’s husband, Scott, enjoyed the tasting as well.

On a historical note, Cheri was a teacher in this community starting in 1976. Jan visited Glenns Ferry with Cheri in ‘76 to check out the community and tour the mobile home that would be provided as part of her compensation package. Cheri noted that the school had been upgraded a bit since her tenure.

This phone booth graced one of the streets in Glenns Ferry. A local resident told us that over 1,000 people take their pictures here every year.

During the 1976 trip, Cheri and Jan also camped in Sun Valley and visited the bar at the Sun Valley Lodge. This was Jan’s introduction to the area, and the rest is history!

So, as mentioned earlier, we agree with Ernest:

Best of all he loved the fall … the fall with the tawny and grey, the leaves yellow on the cottonwoods, leaves floating on the trout streams and above the hills the high blue windless skies

Amazing Azores

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After our April visit to Madeira, Ed and I traveled to two islands in the Azores – Terceira and San Miguel. Both of these Portuguese islands are luscious and green – definitely worthy of their nicknames “Islas Verdes.” The Azores benefit from both the rich landscape and the ever-present seascape.

Travels in Terceira

In Terceira, we were captivated by the green hills that were criss-crossed by grids of lava-stone walls.

Cows Abound!

Terciera has more “bovine” residents than human residents, and these cows enjoy the enclaves created by the walls. In addition to providing enclosures, these picturesque walls enable farmers to clear pastures for grazing, not dissimilar from the early New England settlers who built stone walls around their farmland. Often we were “up close and personal” with the cows, as they sometimes wandered along the small roads that traverse the island.

Cows are everywhere, and they produce an abundance of dairy products. We enjoyed cheese tasting at some local farms. Also, the beef was incredible. We dined at Restaurante da Associacao Agricola, operated by the beef ranchers association, where the steaks were terrific (and some of the largest we’d ever eaten).

Terceira’s lush landscapes and island setting inspire some unique Azorean cuisine. The Molha de Carne is a traditional beef stew of local ingredients served for two or more.

Freshest Fish Imaginable

At Taberna Roberto, a small family restaurant, we selected our fish from the “catch of the day” and enjoyed its excellent preparation.

While Taberna Roberto is listed in Trip Advisor as the #1 restaurant in this area of the Azores, we were a bit surprised that it barely beat out Subway which is ranked #2. (!)

We based ourselves in Angra de Heroismo, a UNESCO World Heritage City, with many impressive buildings from the 1600s. These reflect Portugal’s prowess as a mighty sea trader. The ubiquitous Black and White mosaic pavement reminded us of Rio de Janeiro.

And, we relaxed in our cottage on the property of Vale dos Milhafres. Henry, our host, was especially gracious and helpful and pointed us to his favorite sites and restaurants. The sunsets were beautiful from our patio.

Getting around this small island in our rental car was easy as the roads are quite well designed and maintained and there is little traffic.

Savoring San Miguel

Continuing our journey of unique “eats” in the Azores, we headed to Furnas on San Miguel to try the “cozido das furnas”, a delicacy cooked in a bubbling pit in the ground heated by a volcano. Before lunch, we witnessed the chefs lifting the stew from the holes in the ground.

Then we joined a large crowd of families to try this delicacy at “Restaurante Tony’s.”

These volcanic pools reminded us of the bubbling pits around Yellowstone.

Octopus Anyone?

Another interesting delicacy was “polvo guisado” (octopus in red wine) – only served in a small town of Mosteiros, on the northern tip of the island. This restaurant was a bit tricky to find, as Google Maps is not very accurate in this area. The restaurant appeared to be closed, but when we entered, a waiter popped up from behind the bar and was happy to serve us.

Hot Tub in the Atlantic

The proximity to the ocean not only offers incredible views and seafood, but offers a chance to dunk in a natural hot tub in a cove heated by a volcano. We would recommend other travelers to try this at low tide (10 am in our case), as our visit at noon was a bit rough. We (and other intrepid tourists) hiked down to the cove and carefully lowered ourselves down a slippery, moss-ladened ladder to enter the hot water. The tide rushed in and out, causing a natural jacuzzi effect. Ropes connected to the rocks allowed for everyone to hang on, ensuring that no one was washed out to sea. When we hoisted ourselves back up the ladder, we looked at each other with a grin that said, “Yea, we survived! Next time it will be at low tide! Later, we saw a photo of waves crashing over this cove at 5 pm.

Tea and Pineapple — Who Knew?

The landscape also allows growing of two more interesting crops – tea and pineapple. The Cha Gorreana plantation is the only place where tea is grown in Europe. Dating from the 1880s, they still use some of the original equipment to sort and pack the tea. The fields reminded us of our visit to a tea plantation in Sri Lanka. (One difference is that the tea is picked by hand in Sri Lanka, while they use machines to pick the tea on San Miguel.)

Also, Paulo, our host in Ponta Delgada (the capital city on San Miguel) grows pineapple in hot houses on his property. Paulo has been working with the plants in these hot houses since he was six years old , when he worked here with his father who was a paid-laborer working with the pineapples. When the property became available, Paulo purchased it and created two rental cottages on the property. He carries on the pineapple grower tradition with an abundant crop. The pineapples are delicious!

Beautiful Hiking Trails

The hiking around San Miguel island was superb. Many trails criss-cross the mountains. We especially enjoyed the scenery at Sete Cidades, which boasts two connected lakes. On a clear day, one appears green and the other blue, due to the shadows from the surrounding cliffs. When we visited, the sky was cloudy and the color of the lakes looked similar, but they were still beautiful.

We assumed the “position” and another hiker snapped our picture in the middle of the blue lake.

The Azores – California Connection

Prior to our trip, we read The Tenth Island, a memoir written by Diana Marcum, an LA Times reporter who traveled between the Central Valley of California and Terceira. There is an intimate connection between these two locations, since many dairy farmers fled poverty in Terceira in the early part of the 20th Century and settled in Central Valley towns like Fresno, Lemore, Madera, and Modesto. In this memoir the author describes her year-long stay on Terceira and presents vignettes about her travel and connections around the island. Also, there is a strong connection between other islands of the Azores and New Bedford and Fall River, Massachusetts where Azoreans settled to earn money from their fishing skills. Paulo, our host in San Miguel frequently visits his relatives in New Bedford. In the small world category, this is one of the towns we will go through during our upcoming Massachusetts bike trip. Stay tuned.

If You Go

We relied on the following travel guide, as we knew no one who had spent a week in the Azores: Top 10 Azores. And, definitely read The Tenth Island for local flavor.

In Terceira we highly recommend booking directly with Henry at Vale dos Milhafres. He was extremely helpful and accommodating. You can contact him on Facebook.

In San Miguel, we recommend Paulo’s place, The Pineapple Studio. It’s in a convenient location and Paulo will take great care of you!

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Fun in Funchal

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Ed and I spent the first week of April exploring and savoring the island of Madeira, Portugal. We were based in Funchal, the capital city. Madeira had never been on our radar, and we knew no one who had spent time here, so we plunged ahead without knowing what to expect. We found that the island was completely set up for tourism and was a mecca for Europeans who were escaping cold winters.

Whooshing Down the Mountain

As a nod to the traditions of the island, one of the main tourist attractions is a two-kilometer “sled ride” down the mountain in a traditional wicker sled on skis. Yikes! We paid 30 Euros and waited in line for our “drivers” to prepare our sled. They wore traditional white uniforms with rubber-soled shoes to help them brake our sled, steering with ropes attached to the skis. It took about 15 minutes to get down the mountain. What a trip!

The “technology” is the same as it was in the 1890s when the sled was the only way to get down the “Monte” mountain in Funchal, other than walking. Sleds can reach a cruising speed of 38 km/hour.

Communing with Whales and Dolphins

We joined a group on a Zodiac ride in the ocean to say hello to bottlenose dolphins and pilot whales. They obliged and put on quite a show around our boat. This part of the ocean is home to 28 different species of cetaceans (dolphins and whales) in various seasons of the year. The ones we saw were local to the area, and not just passing through on their migration path.

Hiking the Lavadas of Madeira

Since Madeira is very, very mountainous, the locals created a way to capture rainwater from the high mountains and bring it to the fields below. The elaborate system of “levadas” weaves its way around the mountains and provides water to fields below. You can hike along the waterways and see this incredible engineering. There are 2500 kilometers of levadas on the island.

Sometimes the open levada canals are funneled into a pipe that tunnels through the mountain. We found one of these tunnels and hiked a kilometer in the pitch dark. Luckily we had our mobile phones and could turn on the flashlight. More prepared hikers had their headlamps at the ready. One less prepared hiker told us his phone was dead so he decided to follow us through the tunnel guided by our light. We were happy to help!

Vistas Above the Clouds

At the 6000-foot summit of Pico do Arieiro, the third highest mountain on the island, we enjoyed the vistas and assumed the position above the clouds.

To get here from Funchal, we took a winding 15-kilometer drive. There are many beautiful hiking trails on the island and lots of adventure groups come here for a week or more.

Small Towns Offer Charm

As we drove around the island we saw many small towns nestled in the hillsides and fishing villages hugging the coast. Madeira’s roads are well signed and in excellent condition with many long tunnels and roundabouts. Driving with the guidance of Google Maps was quite pleasant with little traffic. It was definitely worth it to leave the bustle of Funchal to experience a more authentic taste of traditional Madeira life.

The coastal village of Ponta do Sol is supposed to be the sunniest spot on this island. However, we visited on a not-so-sunny day.

Winston Churchill was inspired to paint in the village of Câmara de Lobos.

At the Miradouro do Cabo Girão, the views from the skywalk on one of the highest cliffs in Europe were dramatic.

Visiting with A College Friend

In the “small world” category, we heard in advance that one of Jan’s college friends and his wife would also be visiting Madeira at the same time. So, we emailed them and set up a rendezvous. Given that we both were previously unaware of this island, this was truly a coincidence!

Cristiano Ronaldo Airport

The Madeira airport, named after Cristiano Ronaldo, Madeira’s favorite son and soccer star, hosts a wide variety of discount airlines from Europe, including Peter Pan (!) and EasyJet. Historically, it was a treacherous airport for landing – given the lack of flat plains on this very mountainous island. Portuguese engineering solved this problem in 2000 by extending the runway to 2781 meters with 180 ingenious pillars over the sea that extend the runway to allow for safe and smooth takeoff and landing. The airport itself is a tourist attraction!

Also, Azores Airlines now offers a non-stop flight from JFK to Madeira. This flight was advertised in a “TravelZoo” promotional newsletter, which sparked our interest in coming here, although Ed’s interest in trying to use his Brazilian Portuguese in a Portugal territory was also a motivator.

Tourism Infrastructure Abounds

Madeira boasts an incredible number of hotels and apartments catering to tourists of all types. Our Airbnb which had an incredible ocean view was owned by a Russian woman who communicated with us in English. Our local AirBnB host was Ukrainian. Most restaurants have menus in multiple languages and there are numerous tour operators who offer tours to the Levadas, hiking trips, boat rides, and 4×4 experiences. Virtually everyone working around tourists speaks English to some extent. When Ed spoke to people in Portuguese, most of the time they responded in English, much to his disappointment. We were told that 80% of the tourists come from countries other than Portugal, so English fluency is a necessity.

We enjoyed our week in Madeira. Is it a “must-see?” Not really. But, it is very well set up for tourism, the main industry. Many cruise ships visit for the day, and the city seems to be able to handle the onslaught of tourists with aplomb. We heard many different languages but saw very few Americans. It’s a pleasant place with many activities for tourists and a relaxing environment.

If You Go

We relied on these two books: Lonely Planet Madeira and Top 10 Madeira. Both were helpful. We rented a car for the week, but really only needed it when we drove out of town. So, we could have rented it for half the time and saved money. We also read numerous blog posts about visiting the island. And, we heeded the advice of this sign:

Jan

March 5, 2022

Ketchum: NordicTown USA

Over the last few months, Ed and I have enjoyed many cross-country skiing adventures around Ketchum, Idaho. With over 250 kilometers of ski trails around the Wood River Valley, it’s truly a cross-country mecca.

We’ve been practicing both types of cross country skiing – skate skiing and classic skiing.

Jan Joins the Vamps

To improve my skills–or lack thereof–in skate skiing, I signed up for an eight-week coaching program in skate-skiing with a group of women called the Vamps, coached by Erin Zell, the proprietor of Galena Lodge.

Although our group was labeled “intermediate”, I soon learned that this word means different things in different locations. In any sporting activity in Ketchum, “intermediate” means “quite experienced, super fit, and willing to tackle elevation changes with aplomb.” (We had noticed this fitness level during our gravel biking last summer.) Needless to say, in my group of eight skiers, I was the least fit, especially at the beginning when I had just arrived at 5980 ft elevation from San Francisco. But, I aimed for “most improved”, as I had a long way to go.

Jan is skate skiing with the VAMPS in Ketchum

We learned various skate skiing techniques – V1, V2, and V2 Alternate. We met at the Lake Creek trailhead, and skied on the same trails that are used for Olympic Qualifying races! (More about that later.) It is quite an aerobic workout! In fact, some commentators have labeled skate skiing as “the toughest outdoor sport in the world, it requires a unique combination of strength, speed, and endurance.” So, I probably deserve a bit of slack here!

Over the season, the temperature ranged from 10 degrees (love the hand warmers) to 50 degrees (pile on the sunscreen). The snow changed according to the temperature, which made the skiing even more challenging!

Sydney Attacks The Trails

The Wood River Valley offers two beautiful sets of trails–-over 200 kilometers groomed by the Blaine County Recreation District (BCRD) and 40 kilometers groomed by the Sun Valley Resort. Further north there are additional trails at Alturas Lake and Stanley.

When Ed and I ski together, we usually opt for classic skiing – a slightly easier and less demanding style. And, we select trails where dogs are allowed. Sydney is a willing participant in these activities. She pursues a distinctive style of skiing–“the roll”–which we expect will be added shortly to the roster of standard skate-skiing techniques.

The Resort trails offer incredible views of Bald Mountain.

Sydney on skiing trails in Ketchum Idaho.

Olympic Trials

In January, we volunteered at the Sun Valley Nordic International Invitational ski race, held at the same location where Jan practiced her skate skiing (!). Our job, which started at 7 am, was to pass out the numbered bibs to the various race teams.

Ed volunteering at cross country skiing race in Ketchum

Jan volunteering at cross country skiing race in Ketchum

Each racer was assigned a timing device.

We were excited to see 450 of the best Nordic skiers in the US compete, including Rosie Brennan who won the 5K women’s race. After completing this race, we noticed she wasn’t at all out of breath–unlike Jan’s experience on this course. A couple of weeks later, Rosie came in sixth in the 30K race at the Beijing Olympics. On the downhills, the elite racers reached thirty miles per hour coming into a sharp turn.

More Winter Sports

Ketchum also offers other snow sports, including downhill skiing and snowshoeing. One of the highlights of this winter was our visit from our son Ben and his family. Our granddaughter tried snowshoeing for the first time and loved it!

She also enjoyed walking around the snow in the stroller with her “Nana Jan.”

During Ellie’s time with us, another visitor arrived to enjoy the frozen chokecherries on the tree just in front of our house.

For the first sixty days of 2022, Ketchum has been beautiful, following a plentiful snow dump at the end of last year. The temperature remained below freezing so the snow in town was clean and fluffy; however, there has been almost no new snowfall in the past couple of months. March has brought a succession of very warm days and our snow cover is disappearing rapidly, at least a month before the ski season typically ends.

Winter has almost come to an end, and soon we’ll need to store our skis and snowshoes. But, we look forward to next winter when we can play in the snow again.

Chilling in Moab

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Ed and I spent New Year’s in Moab Utah, exploring the majestic rock formations in the national parks and surrounding area. While we were there the temperatures were quite low and snow fell.

Arches National Park

Arches National Park hosts the densest collection of natural stone arches in the world. Rangers have counted over 2,000 arches in the park; we only had time to see a few of the major ones. But the ones we saw were spectacular.

We “assumed the position” at Turret Arch.

Double Arch beckoned us from both sides.

And Sand Dune Arch was tucked behind a narrow stone pathway.

We didn’t have time to hike to Delicate Arch, but viewed it from a distance. (It looks bigger on the Utah license plates!)

Moab Winter Weather

Winter weather accompanied us – one day was so snowy that we had to turn around and spend the day reading in our hotel! But, the other days were sunny and we enjoyed the magnificent sights.

What a difference a day makes:

Balancing Rock in two weather conditions — December 31, 2021

The temperature hovered around 15 degrees, dipping even lower at night.

Red Cliffs Surround Moab

We celebrated New Year’s Eve at the Cowboy Grill at the Red Cliffs Lodge. It was festive and delicious.

The lodge is spectacularly located on the Colorado River, surrounded by 2,000-foot red cliffs.

In their Western film museum, we learned that over 50 movies have been made in this setting – including the final cliff scene in Thelma and Louise. Jan said hi to John Wayne – but she protected herself with her face mask rather than a revolver!

Since we visited for dinner and it was dark, we returned the next day to enjoy the setting.

We traveled off the beaten path on a route through the La Sal mountains.

Canyonlands National Park

Unfortunately due to the icy road conditions, this park was closed during our visit. The Rangers just did not want to deal with lots of tourists spinning out on the steep and winding roads. We saw several spinouts, but fortunately, everyone was ok. Ed used all of his East Coast driving experience and drove slowly so we had no problems.

We tried to visit Canyonlands three times, and we enjoyed the sites on the drive up to the park. The dramatic sky was constantly changing.

Here’s a professional photographer’s shot of the Mesa Arch in Canyonlands. It’s on our Bucket List for next time!

Mesa Arch in Moab — (c) Mark Alexander — July 2021

If You Go

For sure-footed hiking, we relied on our new Yaktrax Pro Traction Cleats. These handy wire cleats fit over the soles of our hiking boots and prevented us from slipping on the snowy trails. (As an amusing note, each of us purchased two pairs of these cleats as Christmas gifts – one for ourself and one for our spouse! We unwrapped all four pairs on Christmas morning.)

And, to keep our extremities warm in the frigid weather, we used Grabber Hand Warmers and Grabber Foot Warmers.

We stayed at the Hyatt Place Moab – a dog-friendly hotel. This patron especially liked the carts.

Since dogs are not allowed on the trails of the National Parks, Sydney spent two days at the creatively named Moab National Bark doggie daycare. She slept there on New Year’s Eve – thankfully far away from any fireworks. They updated us regularly with photos.

We relied on a post from a fellow travel blogger who outlined how to best spend our time in Moab.

Moab in Winter was a chilly delight. The snow made a dramatic contrast against the red rocky cliffs. Although we couldn’t hike as much as we planned, it was a peaceful and wonderful way to ring in 2022. Happy New Year to all.

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Family History on Mt Tamalpais

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On Thanksgiving, Ed, Leslie and I traveled to Lafayette to have dinner with my 98½-year-old mom, Virginia Gardner Swanberg. It was a small festive gathering with delicious food.

Virginia Gardner at Thanksgiving — *Thanksgiving in Lafayette*

During the party, mom reflected on growing up in the Bay Area, with stories of many outings to Marin County to visit relatives. Virginia traveled with her sister and Granny, as well as other family members on many adventures around California.

Virginia Gardner and Granny
in 1937 — *Virginia, Granny, and Helen (Virginia’s sister)*

Dedication of Gardner Fire Lookout

One story revolved around an outing in 1937 when Virginia traveled to the top of Mt Tamalpais to witness the dedication of the Gardner Fire Lookout on the East Peak. The Gardner Fire Lookout is named in honor of Edwin Gardner, her father’s cousin. Edwin was the first Chief Warden of the Mill Valley Fire District. Virginia recalled:

“For the dedication in 1937, it was a very foggy day, and as my dad drove along the winding road to the top of the peak, my Granny was screaming — ‘Why did you bring me? I’m scared!’ However, we made it to the top safely and were honored to be there at the dedication of the lookout named for my uncle.”

Granny calmed down when she was back at sea level.

Map of Mt Tamalpais and Gardner Fire Lookout — *The Winding Road To The Top* of Mt. Tam

Hiking To the Gardner Lookout

With this same spirit of adventure on the day after Thanksgiving, Ed, Sydney, and I traveled to Marin to pay our respects to the Gardner Fire Lookout and to enjoy the views from the top of Mt. Tam. Friday was a glorious day, with bright sunshine, although there was a bit of haze. We drove up the Panoramic Highway to the top. We hiked around the mountain on the “Vera Dunshee” trail, an easy paved trail. Hiker describes the trail in excellent detail. (Previously the site had misspelled “Gardner”, but when I noticed this I requested a change, and the moderator fixed it promptly.)

The 360-degree vistas were stunning.

View from Gardner Fire Lookout on Mt Tamalpais

We hiked an additional half mile to the top where the Gardner Fire Lookout is perched on top of the world. Built in the mid-1930s by the California Conservation Corps, volunteers still watch for fires from this lookout during fire season.

The Gardner Fire Lookout plaque is in the lower left hand corner. During our visit, we pointed it out to other hikers during or visit.

Plaque dedicating top of Mt Tamalpias to Edwin Gardner

Building the Lookout was quite an accomplishment in its day, according to this excerpt from an article posted by the California Department of Parks and Recreation.

After our hike, we had a picnic with Thanksgiving leftovers and made a “still life” of our modest feast, complete with cranberry sauce.

Picnic near Gardner Fire Lookout on Mt Tamalpais

It was delicious, and the setting was spectacular.

Jan and Ed have a picnic beneath the Gardner Fire Lookout

History Abounds At The Top

Mt Tam holds even more history, as described by the Friends of Mt Tam. From 1896 to 1929, it was the site of the “crookedest railroad in the world” boasting 281 turns. Even Sir Arthur Conan Doyle came to Marin to take a ride. He wrote, “in all our wanderings we have never had a more glorious experience”.

And, in 1902 another attraction was born. On the Gravity Railway, 30 souls would load into a car and gravity propelled them to the bottom. This was not for the faint at heart! Volunteers have rebuilt the car barn and it now houses a museum that is open on weekends.

Alas, both the train and the Gravity Railway are now defunct, but the twisty road to the top is still there. The 360-degree views from 2,571 feet are spectacular. We enjoyed observing the entire Bay Area from the Gardner Fire Lookout and were happy to share the memories with relatives from our past.

The Gravel Less Traveled

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In 1986 when a single friend participated in the Microsoft IPO, his first purchase was a fancy second bike. At the time, we thought this was ridiculous. He already had a good bike. Why did he need two? Well, fast forward a few years: Ed and I now own four bikes each! (City bike from 1982, road bike, mountain bike, and now — gravel bike!) A gravel bike has the same shape as a road bike but is heavier and designed for riding on gravel, fire roads and trails. With Covid-19, bike riding of all types has exploded, and new bikes are in very short supply. And, gravel biking has become an emerging adventure sports category.

Start of Rebecca's Private Idaho gravel bike ride

Once we purchased the bikes in June, we decided to sign up for a local event, “Rebecca’s Private Idaho” — a gravel bike extravaganza in Sun Valley on Labor Day weekend. Rebecca Rusch, the Ketchum-based female world champion in ultra-long distance bike racing, hosts the event.

Let the Gravel Bike Training Begin

To begin with, we signed up for an online training program where an Olympic bike coach helped us get ready for the ride. This program (RPI Basecamp) worked with the Garmin Computers on our gravel bikes and tracked our progress. But, we soon discovered that the training program was designed for 30-year-old jocks, not middle-aged, casual riders. Each week a training schedule was downloaded automatically to our bike computers and an app on our Macs:

Basecamp training program for Rebecca's Private Idaho

As a result, the computers on our bikes tracked our progress.

basecamp training for gravel bike endurance

As you can see, we quickly fell off the daily training regimen. But, we enjoyed training at our own pace on the local fire roads. The training took us to remote areas where we rarely saw any other riders.

We saw lovely vistas and infinite dirt roads.

Sometimes we shared the trail with wildlife or a flock of sheep. The scenery was quite rural, which was similar to our other rides in Idaho and Missouri but different from riding in California.

One of the aspects of gravel biking is that it is a “rain or shine” sport. On one of our training rides, we got caught in a downpour, and the backs of our jerseys displayed the dirt streak–a badge of honor.

Race Day!

The Labor Day event was a scene. Rebecca’s Private Idaho hosted 1500 riders from around the country. Riders could select from 3 distances — the Baked Potato (100 miles), the French Fry (50 miles) or the Tater Tot (20 miles). Although we had initially signed up for the French Fry, we switched to the Tater Tot; it seemed a better fit.

On “Race Day,” the riders set out in waves, depending on the distance.

We gathered with our fellow Tater Tot riders in 46-degree weather. Everyone “masked up” at the start as we were standing close together.

The ride was beautiful. The morning transitioned from chilly to sunny as the sun poked through the trees. The riders started together. Everyone rode at their own pace, and the bunch quickly separated. Our 20-mile ride climbed 1400 feet. The champion woman came in at 1:06 hours (average speed 17.4 mph). Jan clocked in at #52 out of 70 women on the Tater Tot … 1:48 hours (average speed 10.5 mph). Ed’s score was similar.

At the end of the race, there was a bike fair. There were lots of esoteric bike items for sale:

A favorite (and necessary) item for long-distance bikers is Chamois Butt’r. (You can use your imagination as to its application.) These gals were giving out free samples, which the crowd welcomed.

In addition, author Sharisse Steber was selling her book, which encourages women of all ages to try adventure sports. The book features Rebecca Rusch and other athletes.

And, as finishers, we received coupons for a free wood-fired pizza baked by Scott Mason, a local chef celebrity. Delicious!

At the end of the ride, we celebrated our participation with a pic at the podium. We might not have placed in the top ten, but we had fun and were happy to enjoy the surrounding areas with so many enthusiastic riders.

Finish line photo at Rebecca's Private Idaho gravel bike ride

Jan and Ed relaxing at the end of gravel bike ride

Final Notes on Gravel Biking

Before the ride, Rebecca warned all riders that there would be no “SAG” (Support and Gear) Wagon. SAG is “a vehicle that follows behind bicyclists (as in a race) to pick up those who drop out or to carry gear.” She expected everyone to finish because she describes herself as the “queen of pain.” However, if she needed a SAG Wagon, perhaps she could have selected this quaint Sun Valley wagon usually pulled by horses or a tractor!

In conclusion, for the 102-mile Baked Potato, the champion bike rider was 29-year-old Griffin Easter, a professional cyclist who finished the ride in 4 hours and 50 minutes, averaging 21 miles per hour over 6,271 feet of elevation. His Wikipedia page states that he finished 9th in the Tour d’Azerbaïdjan in 2016. I wonder how that scenery compared to this ride? (Note to self: we’ll probably never know!)

Touring the Monterey Peninsula

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Recently we took a quick mini-break to the Monterey Peninsula. We rented an Airbnb in Pebble Beach for two nights and enjoyed the sights and tastes of Pacific Grove where the skies were cloudless and the shoreline was bursting with color.

The Windswept 17-Mile Drive

It sounded like a good idea. Bike the famous 17-mile drive in Pebble Beach and enjoy scenic vistas from two-wheeled freedom. However, we hadn’t counted on Thursday’s two quirks of Mother Nature: 29-mile per hour wind and a high temperature of 57 degrees Fahrenheit. Brrr!

We hadn’t packed thermal pants, fleece, ear muffs or full-finger bike gloves, so instead of riding, we opted to cruise the 17-Mile Drive from the comfort of our new Hybrid/Plug-in SUV. (Not a bad choice!) The positive of the strong wind was that the waves were very active. Surfers delighted, while bikers and golfers stayed inside. We had never seen the golf courses so empty.

We waved at one jogger who was decked out for the day’s conditions.

The Lone Cypress still attracts tourists, with a few other visitors willing to share picture taking opportunities.

The beach was almost empty in Carmel.

Off to Big Sur

Driving this route left us more free time, so we opted to cruise down Highway 1 to Big Sur. Again, the windswept vistas were magnificent.

At Nepenthe, we browsed the well-curated gift shop and purchased several items. Speaking to a store employee, Ed mentioned, “I love the murals on the men’s room walls.” And, Jan commented, “I really like that painting above the cash register.” We learned that all of this art was painted by Erin Lee Gafill, a local landscape artist who grew up in Big Sur. Her family built and continues to own and manage the restaurant and the gift shop. Also, we learned that a new exhibit of her work was open at the Monterey Museum of Art in Monterey.

Curated Visit to the Museum

Friday morning’s visit to the museum proved to be a lagniappe. (This was one of Jan’s fathers’ favorite words, which describes an “unexpected treat!”) The exhibit chronicles the yearly painting sessions of Erin and her uncle, Kaffe Fassett, a renowned textile artist who is the son of Nepenthe’s founders. Kaffe and Erin painted together side-by-side in Big Sur for over a decade — each painting the same subject, each exhibiting their own masterful style.

Due to the pandemic, the exhibit was almost empty, except for one small group of women led through the exhibit by an energetic docent. We were eavesdropping on the tour, and discovered that the docent was Erin herself! Erin invited us to join the group, and we spent the next hour captivated by her personal account of painting in Big Sur with her uncle.

Erin was also the exhibit curator. She worked with the staff to design an exhibit that not only shared the art, but communicated the deep lifelong relationship represented by the art. She painted this background mural.

When we asked about the differences between painting murals on plaster and painting pictures on canvas, Erin shared that she thinks quite differently about the two media. She finds painting temporary works on plaster to be liberating as she knows that they will not become part of her permanent oeuvre; thus, she can paint more freely and less self-consciously.

In the middle of the exhibit, Erin mocked up a demonstration of how she paints side by side with her uncle. Unfortunately, Kaffe currently lives in London and cannot visit the exhibit in person but will be participating in ZOOM meetings with museum members.

Kaffe pioneered new approaches in textile design, including designing all of the fabrics for this exquisite quilt.

Erin also creates quilts. We were particularly taken in by the quilt below with its subtle integration of vertical and horizontal patterns using squares of different sizes. Ed wanted to take this home, but alas, it is not for sale.

A Relaxing Staycation

As in other areas, tourism is just starting to return to the Monterey Peninsula, so we didn’t have to wait at restaurants, and parking wasn’t an issue. Ours was the only car on the main drag in Pacific Grove at 8:30 on Wednesday night.

Even though the weather encouraged us to modify our plans for this trip, we enjoyed the sights and culinary delights and felt fortunate to be able to escape our city routine for a few relaxing days around Monterey.

Rollin’ on the River

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Ed and I just completed a four-day bike trip meandering around eastern Sonoma County. We carried a few overnight items on our road bikes and stayed at local inns.

Setting off from Healdsburg, we rode along the east side of the Russian River Valley, past vineyards and old apple orchards, and returned on the west side of the River. (Warning for fellow bicyclists: The 10% grades on Harrison Grade Road between Healdsburg and Occidental make the Old La Honda climb seem gradual.)

Beautiful Scenery Abounds

We couldn’t ask for a more beautiful route. The variety in vegetation was extraordinary. Prolific poppies graced the sides of the road.

Lush vineyards created vistas of trellised pinot noir, cabernet, and chardonnay grapes (among other varietals.) Artisanal wineries dotted the landscapes.

Lush Redwood Groves engulfed the road with “Nature’s Cathedral.” During these stretches, it became quite dark, and we were glad to have our blinking headlights and red rear lights so that cars could see us. Luckily, the traffic was light, and drivers were courteous.

The weather cooperated as well — the temperature was in the high 70’s — perfect for biking!

Cute Small Towns

The route through Sonoma County took us to some charming tiny towns, including Graton, where we enjoyed lunch at the Willow Wood Market Cafe.

We spent our nights at charming inns (which were much better than the double-wide we stayed in on our last overnight bike trip in rural Idaho. )

Tourism is Starting to Pick Up in Occidental and Guerneville

Small businesses are finding ways to creatively serve customers while staying safe and conscious of pandemic protocols. At Hazel, a delicious restaurant in Occidental, they’ve closed inside seating and have expanded into the parking lot.

Instead of china and silverware, they use take out containers and serve picnic style. And, they serve wine in cans — red, white or pink!

At the B&B, instead of a family-style breakfast, all items are served in pre-portioned paper containers, so that people can pick up what they want and then dine outside or in the socially distanced dining room. This worked really well. Even the bacon (served in a bag) was delicious!

Occidental is known for family-style Italian dining. Jan went there with her family and Grandma in the ‘50’s and ‘60s. Now the two main restaurants are only open on the weekend during the pandemic and serve picnic-style as well.

Relics of the Past

The Russian River has been a vacation playground for many years. Many artifacts remain along the route, harking back to some of its glory days.

Who knew that Paul Bunyan would be able to wave to us as we rode by?

Unfortunately, the Pink Elephant was closed, so we couldn’t stop in for a morning Bloody Mary.

This Rexall Drug looks just as it did in the past.

Some of the relics we saw are–or were–mobile including this 1960 Studebaker Lark.

Many older farm buildings dot the landscape.

Some of the older bridges are still carrying traffic, in this case pedestrians and bikes.

The Russian River is unfortunately quite low. California’s drought is evident, even in early Spring.

A Touch of Guerneville History

Guerneville celebrated its 150th birthday in 2020. Founded in 1870, tourists (including Jan’s grandparents) used to ride the train from San Francisco to Guerneville and Monte Rio for sun and fun along the Russian River. Jan found this photo of her mother at the Russian River in 1927. Virginia (Grandma Ginny) is in the middle, with her sister Helen and her father, Leslie Gardner. He is our daughter Leslie’s namesake! (You can see more early pictures of Virginia in Northern California here.)

Virginia on the Russian River in Sonoma County in 1927

The Russian River Historical Society offers photos of the very early days when the train came through Monte Rio. Good thing our bikes didn’t have this type of traffic!

Today, the welcoming overhead sign in Monte Rio greets guests as they arrive and depart.

We pedaled back to Healdsburg and were happy to celebrate the area’s history, along with its beauty and endless culinary delights. Sonoma County is truly “foodie heaven.” We calculated that we ate at 10 restaurants on our journey, and each one was delicious! Here’s just one of the many delicious salads we enjoyed — this one was complete with fresh flowers and homemade cheese.

Beautiful salad in Healdsburg, Sonoma County

Can’t wait to return to this vacation paradise. We might want to do some hill repeats next time to get ready to climb the Harrison Grade!