Touring the Monterey Peninsula

Recently we took a quick mini-break to the Monterey Peninsula. We rented an Airbnb in Pebble Beach for two nights and enjoyed the sights and tastes of Pacific Grove where the skies were cloudless and the shoreline was bursting with color.

The Windswept 17-Mile Drive

It sounded like a good idea. Bike the famous 17-mile drive in Pebble Beach and enjoy scenic vistas from two-wheeled freedom. However, we hadn’t counted on Thursday’s two quirks of Mother Nature: 29-mile per hour wind and a high temperature of 57 degrees Fahrenheit. Brrr!

We hadn’t packed thermal pants, fleece, ear muffs or full-finger bike gloves, so instead of riding, we opted to cruise the 17-Mile Drive from the comfort of our new Hybrid/Plug-in SUV. (Not a bad choice!) The positive of the strong wind was that the waves were very active. Surfers delighted, while bikers and golfers stayed inside. We had never seen the golf courses so empty.

We waved at one jogger who was decked out for the day’s conditions.

The Lone Cypress still attracts tourists, with a few other visitors willing to share picture taking opportunities.

The beach was almost empty in Carmel.

Off to Big Sur

Driving this route left us more free time, so we opted to cruise down Highway 1 to Big Sur. Again, the windswept vistas were magnificent.

At Nepenthe, we browsed the well-curated gift shop and purchased several items. Speaking to a store employee, Ed mentioned, “I love the murals on the men’s room walls.” And, Jan commented, “I really like that painting above the cash register.” We learned that all of this art was painted by Erin Lee Gafill, a local landscape artist who grew up in Big Sur. Her family built and continues to own and manage the restaurant and the gift shop. Also, we learned that a new exhibit of her work was open at the Monterey Museum of Art in Monterey.

Curated Visit to the Museum

Friday morning’s visit to the museum proved to be a lagniappe. (This was one of Jan’s fathers’ favorite words, which describes an “unexpected treat!”) The exhibit chronicles the yearly painting sessions of Erin and her uncle, Kaffe Fassett, a renowned textile artist who is the son of Nepenthe’s founders. Kaffe and Erin painted together side-by-side in Big Sur for over a decade — each painting the same subject, each exhibiting their own masterful style.

Due to the pandemic, the exhibit was almost empty, except for one small group of women led through the exhibit by an energetic docent. We were eavesdropping on the tour, and discovered that the docent was Erin herself! Erin invited us to join the group, and we spent the next hour captivated by her personal account of painting in Big Sur with her uncle.

Erin was also the exhibit curator. She worked with the staff to design an exhibit that not only shared the art, but communicated the deep lifelong relationship represented by the art. She painted this background mural.

When we asked about the differences between painting murals on plaster and painting pictures on canvas, Erin shared that she thinks quite differently about the two media. She finds painting temporary works on plaster to be liberating as she knows that they will not become part of her permanent oeuvre; thus, she can paint more freely and less self-consciously.

In the middle of the exhibit, Erin mocked up a demonstration of how she paints side by side with her uncle. Unfortunately, Kaffe currently lives in London and cannot visit the exhibit in person but will be participating in ZOOM meetings with museum members.

Kaffe pioneered new approaches in textile design, including designing all of the fabrics for this exquisite quilt.

Erin also creates quilts. We were particularly taken in by the quilt below with its subtle integration of vertical and horizontal patterns using squares of different sizes. Ed wanted to take this home, but alas, it is not for sale.

A Relaxing Staycation

As in other areas, tourism is just starting to return to the Monterey Peninsula, so we didn’t have to wait at restaurants, and parking wasn’t an issue. Ours was the only car on the main drag in Pacific Grove at 8:30 on Wednesday night.

Even though the weather encouraged us to modify our plans for this trip, we enjoyed the sights and culinary delights and felt fortunate to be able to escape our city routine for a few relaxing days around Monterey.

Rollin’ on the River

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Ed and I just completed a four-day bike trip meandering around eastern Sonoma County. We carried a few overnight items on our road bikes and stayed at local inns.

Setting off from Healdsburg, we rode along the east side of the Russian River Valley, past vineyards and old apple orchards, and returned on the west side of the River. (Warning for fellow bicyclists: The 10% grades on Harrison Grade Road between Healdsburg and Occidental make the Old La Honda climb seem gradual.)

Beautiful Scenery Abounds

We couldn’t ask for a more beautiful route. The variety in vegetation was extraordinary. Prolific poppies graced the sides of the road.

Lush vineyards created vistas of trellised pinot noir, cabernet, and chardonnay grapes (among other varietals.) Artisanal wineries dotted the landscapes.

Lush Redwood Groves engulfed the road with “Nature’s Cathedral.” During these stretches, it became quite dark, and we were glad to have our blinking headlights and red rear lights so that cars could see us. Luckily, the traffic was light, and drivers were courteous.

The weather cooperated as well — the temperature was in the high 70’s — perfect for biking!

Cute Small Towns

The route through Sonoma County took us to some charming tiny towns, including Graton, where we enjoyed lunch at the Willow Wood Market Cafe.

We spent our nights at charming inns (which were much better than the double-wide we stayed in on our last overnight bike trip in rural Idaho. )

Tourism is Starting to Pick Up in Occidental and Guerneville

Small businesses are finding ways to creatively serve customers while staying safe and conscious of pandemic protocols. At Hazel, a delicious restaurant in Occidental, they’ve closed inside seating and have expanded into the parking lot.

Instead of china and silverware, they use take out containers and serve picnic style. And, they serve wine in cans — red, white or pink!

At the B&B, instead of a family-style breakfast, all items are served in pre-portioned paper containers, so that people can pick up what they want and then dine outside or in the socially distanced dining room. This worked really well. Even the bacon (served in a bag) was delicious!

Occidental is known for family-style Italian dining. Jan went there with her family and Grandma in the ‘50’s and ‘60s. Now the two main restaurants are only open on the weekend during the pandemic and serve picnic-style as well.

Relics of the Past

The Russian River has been a vacation playground for many years. Many artifacts remain along the route, harking back to some of its glory days.

Who knew that Paul Bunyan would be able to wave to us as we rode by?

Unfortunately, the Pink Elephant was closed, so we couldn’t stop in for a morning Bloody Mary.

This Rexall Drug looks just as it did in the past.

Some of the relics we saw are–or were–mobile including this 1960 Studebaker Lark.

Many older farm buildings dot the landscape.

Some of the older bridges are still carrying traffic, in this case pedestrians and bikes.

The Russian River is unfortunately quite low. California’s drought is evident, even in early Spring.

A Touch of Guerneville History

Guerneville celebrated its 150th birthday in 2020. Founded in 1870, tourists (including Jan’s grandparents) used to ride the train from San Francisco to Guerneville and Monte Rio for sun and fun along the Russian River. Jan found this photo of her mother at the Russian River in 1927. Virginia (Grandma Ginny) is in the middle, with her sister Helen and her father, Leslie Gardner. He is our daughter Leslie’s namesake! (You can see more early pictures of Virginia in Northern California here.)

Virginia on the Russian River in Sonoma County in 1927

The Russian River Historical Society offers photos of the very early days when the train came through Monte Rio. Good thing our bikes didn’t have this type of traffic!

Today, the welcoming overhead sign in Monte Rio greets guests as they arrive and depart.

We pedaled back to Healdsburg and were happy to celebrate the area’s history, along with its beauty and endless culinary delights. Sonoma County is truly “foodie heaven.” We calculated that we ate at 10 restaurants on our journey, and each one was delicious! Here’s just one of the many delicious salads we enjoyed — this one was complete with fresh flowers and homemade cheese.

Beautiful salad in Healdsburg, Sonoma County

Can’t wait to return to this vacation paradise. We might want to do some hill repeats next time to get ready to climb the Harrison Grade!

Our Socially-Distanced Amador County Getaway

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Our three-day getaway to Sutter Creek and Plymouth, in Amador County, was a visual and gastronomic feast. Based in a pet-friendly bungalow in Sutter Creek, we donned our masks to explore the rural area on bike, on foot, and by car.

Stunning Visuals

Old mining equipment and building supplies have been repurposed in creative ways. Small rail cars are now planters with pumpkin displays.

On rural routes, mailboxes sprout from old plumbing equipment and miscellaneous ironwork.

Wine barrels morph into outdoor tables, and wood pallets become fences to keep patrons safely apart from one another. In our bungalow, the headboards were old doors (complete with knobs).

Homes and shops all over Amador County are decked out with Fall and Halloween banners, flags, and mock tombstones.

Our bungalow had room for Ed to work. Since he’s coaching students in two classes this quarter, he had a lot of work to do so he brought his large monitor and set up at the table.

And Sydney enjoyed lounging around (and supervising Ed while he worked.)

Biking Around Sutter Creek

While Ed worked, I could play! (I am only coaching one class this quarter, and my assignments were due on Monday, so I had time to complete them prior to the trip.)

Jan sets off on her bike from Sutter Creek.

I biked from Sutter Creek to Amador City and beyond. The guide for the route mentioned that the ride would be “hilly”. This was an understatement. Several of the grades reached over 9.5% in certain areas. I saw two other cyclists on this route — they both were riding e-bikes! (Note to self: might not be a bad idea next time!) One e-bike rider sailed by me on an uphill. She grinned, “I’m cheating…bye bye!” I was also pretty used to riding in a mask, since I’ve been doing it during the pandemic.

Jan is wearing her mask as she rides from Sutter Creek to Amador City

I biked up a tiny lane, named “StringBean Alley”, which was quite apropos. The pavement left a bit to be desired in certain segments. Not too many cars can travel this road, even though it’s listed as county road 34! Herbertville was long gone.

Tiny Towns Among the Oaks

A casual ride through the area presents wide vistas of beautiful oak trees, nestled among the golden hills. Little towns are sprinkled throughout the region.

Amador City, founded in 1848, boasts that they are the smallest incorporated city in California, with an area of only .31 miles. It’s a charming town with one intersection. You could buy an antique arch or gazebo and other garden art in this shop.

The city council members of larger towns would grin at this posted agenda:

But the artists here are creative and thoughtful.

And, the buildings look well-preserved.

We also enjoyed exploring the tiny town of Volcano. We learned that it had over 10,000 residents during the boom of the gold mining era. Now, the town sign boasts only 85 residents. It’s hard to imagine that this town was competing with Benicia to be the original capital of the State of California in the 1850s.

Volcano was once a big town in Amador County. Today it's tiny.

Volcano was the site of the state’s first Law School and first Observatory. Now it boasts the oldest continuously operating General Store.

And, during non-pandemic times, there is an outdoor theater which looks very cool.

Wine Tasting in Amador County

The Amador valley is known for lush red wines. According to the wine pamphlet, “Amador Wine Country vineyards experience long warm days and cooler nights — creating a temperature differential of 30 degrees — allowing grapes to mature slowly while developing deep, complex flavors in elevations varying from 300 to 3,000 feet.” Who knew? We found the tasting culture to be warm and welcoming and the wines to be delicious. We enjoyed the Barbera wine at the Jeff Runquist winery.

Tasting wine at the Runquist winery near Sutter Creek.

Our favorite winery was Yorba, whose tasting room is located in Sutter Creek, right next to our bungalow. We spent a lovely hour on their patio, sampling their delicious reds under a beautiful incense Cedar tree.

Kelsey, our lovely Yorba host, grew up in the area and was able to share many details about the wine, the winery, and local history.

We learned that the Yorba family got their start in Southern California, when Jose Antonio Yorba came to California in 1769 from Spain and was “given a large chunk of Orange County as an incentive to stay in the New World.” Not a bad start! After generations of successful citrus farming in Orange County, the current family winemaker, Ann Kraemer, graduated from UC Davis in the mid 70’s (sound familiar?) and started the winery in Amador County after working at several premium wineries in Napa. She exhibits a particular passion for the unique characteristics of the soil and micro-climates. Yorba bottles 10% of their 150 acre vineyard and sells the rest of the grapes to other premium wineries. They even custom blend and bottle wine for restaurants like The French Laundry.

We were honored to be their first guests of the season, as their tasting room had been closed due to the Pandemic.

Delicious Dining

Sydney was able to join us for a prix-fix 3-course meal at Taste in nearby Plymouth. We had reserved a table in the public park across from the restaurant. This was a creative use of a socially-distanced space.

Other restaurants in Sutter Creek have set up in the parking spaces along Main Street so they can serve guests outside with social distancing.

Restaurants in Amador County have safe outdoor dining areas.

Our quick Amador County getaway was a treat. People were doing their best to maintain social distancing, wear masks and stay safe. We will definitely return to this area once things get back to normal. We’d love to catch an amateur production at the amphitheater in Volcano and attend some intimate tastings at more wineries. Until then, mask on!

A Close-to-Home Memorial Day

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Beautiful weather. Clear skies. A day to remember the fallen … Ed and I enjoyed a peaceful Memorial Day weekend in the Bay Area. It wasn’t the exotic travel that we had planned (move over, Mozambique!) but it was still fun. We took advantage of scenic activities in our own backyard.

Socially-Distanced Picnic

On Saturday of Memorial Day weekend, our first stop was Lafayette, where we had a socially-distanced picnic with my 97-year old mom. The menu was Chinese food from a local spot. First we set up the tables in her backyard with the required spacing. Of course, Sydney supervised.

Ed picked up the takeout cuisine and Jan plated it safely for all to enjoy.

The Mongolian Beef, Shrimp with Veggies, and Chicken in Black Bean Sauce were all delicious. Thanks to the chef at the nearby Kung Fu restaurant! We appreciate that they’re considered an essential business.

Memorial Day Hiking in the Foothills

Lafayette has developed an extensive trail network. After lunch, Ed and I met our friends, Todd and Barbara, at a local trailhead right across the street from my mom’s house.

We donned our masks and set forth on the trail.

The views were beautiful.

Sydney enjoyed the shade.

Hiking in a mask wasn’t too difficult, as we are all pretty used to wearing them. We passed quite a few other hikers — most of whom donned masks as well.

We feel fortunate that this land has been preserved for all to enjoy. Thank you, East Bay Regional Park District!

Biking to the Ocean

On Sunday of Memorial Day weekend, we rode through Golden Gate Park to the ocean.

No one told the roses in the Rose Garden about the coronavirus, as they seemed healthy and vigorous. The blossoms were bright and beckoning.

Quite a few families were enjoying the great weather and sunshine in Golden Gate Park. Most were gathered in their family groups, keeping 6-feet away from others.

The Great Ocean Walkway

The Great Highway along the ocean has been closed to cars, so it’s a mecca for walkers, joggers, and bikers. We saw all types of transportation — electric bikes, bikes, skateboards, scooters, you name it! The mood was festive. People were happy to be out, as everyone has had “cabin fever”.

Lots of groups congregated along the beach. A few surfers caught the waves in the distance.

The message near the Conservatory of Flowers said it all. It’s important to enjoy this Memorial Day and share hope that we’ll come out of this virus period better equipped to handle crises in the future.

Gone to the Dogs

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Over the last few days, Ed and I volunteered for the Idaho Sled Dog Challenge in Central Idaho. Seventeen teams of dogs and mushers came through our checkpoint. Some sprinted right through; others stayed a while to rest their dogs and contemplate the next steps of the race.

Musher arrives at Idaho Sled Dog Challenge

There were three categories of racers — those traveling 300 (!) miles; those going 100 miles, and a junior division. The racers in the longest division were competing to qualify for the Alaska Iditarod.

Who knew there was an entire culture that revolves around dogs, mushers, raw meat, sleds, and active volunteers? The mushers were a mix of men and women, ranging from a 14-year-old girl to middle-aged men. Most of the volunteers at our checkpoint were locals and friends of the ‘Weiser River Trail’. This was the mountain bike trail that we enjoyed in the fall. (After we made a donation to the “Friends”, we received their newsletter which described the need for volunteers at the Wye Campground sled dog checkpoint. It sounded like a scene, so we signed up!)

Musher lets dog rest at Idaho Sled Dog Challenge

Ed volunteered to be the checkpoint photographer. He enjoyed viewing the dog sled teams from many angles and providing photos of the local volunteers. Hopefully, the “Friends” can use these photos to recruit more volunteers for next year.

My volunteer role was as a “dog handler.” I waited near the timing line with a group of fellow dog handlers. As the mushers entered the campground, handlers took hold of the ropes between the dogs and guided the sled to a numbered waiting area–think of it as a parking space.

Jan acts as dog handler at Idaho Sled Dog Challenge

Often there were more than four teams resting at our checkpoint. Each musher and dog team needed their own space so the dogs could rest and recover for the next part of the race.

Being a dog handler was not as challenging as I expected. Prior to doing the job, I’d read the following disclaimer on the volunteer website:

Dog Handler – Assists in sending/receiving teams off the line, lead teams or physically park teams as needed, watch over teams resting and keep all spectators out of the parking area. NOTE OF CAUTION: Being a dog handler is challenging. You must be physically able to run a short distance beside a team while helping to hold them back, and there is a possibility that you could fall.

On our days of “duty”, the snow was packed, so no handlers fell. I positioned myself near the back of the line so all I had to do was run with the dogs and follow the lead handler, who was experienced with this job and knew exactly what to do. It was fun to be near the dogs. They seemed very well trained and up for the task at hand. The more experienced dogs knew to rest while at our stop. The musher put out hay for them to lie on, and they snacked on raw meat, kibble and drank water.

The more junior dogs were jumping up and down and singing a soprano-like howl, instead of resting. At times, there was quite the symphony of howls.

dogs howling at Idaho Sled Dog Challenge

A vet made the rounds and checked all the dogs at the stop. She had a stethoscope for their hearts and checked their paws for irritation.

Most dogs were eager to go on when the musher felt the time was right. The teams could start with as many as 12 dogs; 6 dogs was the minimum at the finish line.

For the Idaho Sled Dog Challenge, of the six teams competing in the 300-mile race, only two continued past the 100-mile mark. It was quite warm for the dogs, and some mushers decided not to continue. When the temperature is above freezing and the snow is soft, the dogs’ paws sink into the snow and running becomes very tiring.

The teams planned to camp at night at some of the other checkpoints. (Brrr.) On Wednesday, snow was falling, but it was in the low 30s, and it felt like rain once it hit our parkas.

On Thursday, the sun was shining — ideal conditions for the spectators and volunteers, but apparently too warm for the pooches. The fog came in around 5 pm and blanketed the rest area with an eerie glow. We opted to leave before the last mushers arrived at 9 pm. (No working under headlamps for us!)

A musher has to be very self-sufficient. They’re completely responsible for the welfare of the dogs. No volunteer could help put out the hay–or help clean it up. This was the job of the musher or part of his or her support team who were waiting at the stop. If a dog was unable to continue, a member of the support team would lead it to one of the specially-rigged doggie trailers. These trailers provided luxury accommodations for the dogs while they were not on the trail.

As for luxury accommodations, Ed and I stayed at the Hartland Inn B&B in New Meadows. We were the only residents at the B&B, so the host cooked us custom breakfasts and we were able to connect to their wifi to complete our Stanford work. The Hartland Inn’s main building dates from 1911 and was filled with antiques. The Inn also offers motel rooms around the main building, and these were more occupied by snowmobilers and other guests.

It was fun to be a part of a totally different scene. Are we hooked? Not really. It looks pretty cold and lonely out there on the sleds in the Idaho Sled Dog Challenge. I don’t think we’ll be turning in our cross country skis for dog sleds any time soon. Besides, Sydney (our pooch) might get cold out there!

Finish line at Idaho Sled Dog Challenge.

A Ride Across Missouri

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Ed and I spent the week of October 10 – 16 riding the KATY trail, a 237-mile route stretching across Missouri. We followed the footsteps of Lewis and Clark as we rode beneath towering river bluffs while the Missouri River flowed by.

The trail meanders through peaceful farmland and small-town Americana. It’s America’s longest “rails-to-trail” project, formerly the MKT (Missouri Kansas Texas) rail line. We booked a six-day ride with a local outfitter — Independent Tourist — who arranged our B&B lodging along the route and contacted local SAG support (KATY Bike Rentals) to schlep our stuff between locations.

Setting Off On The KATY Trail

We set off from St Charles (near St. Louis) to start the trek. Little did we know that it would be pouring! Our “schlepper” picked us up in the downpour and drove us 200 + miles to the trailhead at Clinton. On the way, we stopped at his bike store and purchased full-finger gloves–as it was much colder than we were anticipating, a rear-view mirror for Ed’s glasses (so we could stay together) and a few other items to help with potential flat tires. When we arrived in Clinton MO and it was 35 degrees Fahrenheit and raining. Brrrr!

The first day on the trail was chilly. We donned our newly acquired gloves and put our knit hats on under our helmets. This caboose marked the beginning of the trail.

We didn’t dare stop on the trail, else we would become more chilled. We saw a few fellow riders on the first day. The original train depots display historic information.

We learned that the silent film star, Pearl White, was from Green Ridge. In her famous silent film series, The Perils of Pauline, she dangerously dangled from a cliff at the end of one film. This was the origin of our expression, “cliff hanger”. Who knew?

The Fairly Flat Trail

Riding on a gravel railroad trail is quite different from the California and Idaho trails and roads we are accustomed to. There is not much climbing or descending–due to the constraints on locomotion power, but unlike pavement, there is little opportunity to coast.

One of the largest towns on the route, Sedalia, was a (chilly) delight.

We stayed in the Hotel Bothwell, from 1923. This was a cool venue with lots of history. We had breakfast in the Harry Truman Breakfast room, where the former President had also dined.

Sedalia was also hosting a Corvette show. We took a break from the trail and enjoyed looking at the 100 Corvettes in the town square.

Each of the cars was perfectly polished. Their engines were spotless.

We each picked our favorite Corvette, in case anyone is in the market to give us a present!

Jan’s pick was a 1958 Panama Yellow coupe. Only 190 were painted in this color!

Back in the saddle, the trail twisted and turned through rural Missouri. Recent flooding had wiped out many parts of the trail, including the passage through the only tunnel on the route.

Small Towns Were Thriving

Our favorite parts were in the small, rural towns. Rocheport, population 240, was recently named one of the “Best Tiny Towns in Missouri’ by Southern Living Magazine. We learned that this accolade was the result of the efforts of our innkeeper, Conrad Yates of the Yates House B&B. In 2008, Conrad, his wife, and another couple moved to Rocheport, which was in demise. With some ingenuity and lots of sweat, the two couples set out to revitalize the town. In 2008, the town had 208 residents, and 8 worked in town. Currently, it has 240 residents, with 40 people making their living in the town. Very cool! There are cafes, restaurants, art galleries, and antique shops in a small, charming downtown. And it’s only a 15-minute drive to Columbia, the home of the University of Missouri.

Yates House would fit right into a New England town

In Rocheport, we dined at a local winery. We admit that we are California wine snobs, and did not love most of the Missouri wines as they are very sweet. However, at the Les Bourgeois Winery, we found a Syrah which was quite nice.

The label was selected from a local design contest. Isn’t this dog wearing the pope’s hat?

Along the way, there were humorous additions on the side of the trail.

Signs are posted to help the riders. Jan mistakenly read this one as ” Do not stop for 25 miles (instead of .25 miles!) She wasn’t sure she could ride for 25 miles without stopping!

Fun KATY Trail Facts

We learned some trivia from people on the trail:

The KATY Trail was enabled by the generosity of Edward “Ted” Jones, who built up the Edward Jones investment firm, whose 14,000 branches are located in small towns across America.
Missouri shares a border with eight states and is tied with Tennessee for the most adjacent states. (They are Nebraska, Oklahoma, Tennessee, Arkansas, Illinois, Iowa, Kansas, and Kentucky.)
The KATY Railroad put an end to a great American institution — the “cattle drive”. Prior to the railroad’s existence, cowboys would run cattle from Texas to Chicago. They bought the cattle in Texas for $2 a head and sold them in Chicago for $75 each. When the railroad started, they could bring the cattle to Sedalia and put them on the train, so fewer cowboy days were needed. Who knew?

Grain elevators near the trail reminded us of its earlier role as a railway.

Due to extreme flooding of the Missouri River this spring, many sections of the trail washed away. Rock slides cover other areas. We followed the suggestions of our outfitter and took a shuttle around these areas. The trail needs $1 million in repairs which is a huge sum for Missouri and not the highest priority for the state.

There were several beautiful rail trestles along the trail.

The KATY Trail is a “thing” for bikers. We learned that most of the riders are either locals .. or they’re from California (!) or Colorado. During the same week when we were riding, there were 32 riders from a Road Scholar group. It didn’t appear that there were any other riders with our exact itinerary, as no one else shared the van for our luggage or stayed at the same inns with us. So we didn’t pass many other riders on the trail, and most of the inns were fairly empty. But we did meet one couple, who snapped our picture.

Check it Out!

We would recommend the KATY trail for other riders. However, two or three days might suffice! The small towns on the route were very charming, but the biking route was fairly monotonous. We experienced the same small-pellet gravel and tree canopy throughout the trek. (We noted that trails that run from North to South offer much greater variety than those that run from West to East.) The trees had not really turned color yet during our week-long trek, but we heard they will be changing color soon!

We were glad to experience small-town, rural America. The fall weather was mostly cooperative, yet the colors were not as brilliant as we were expecting. We learned a lot about the history of Missouri and the travels of Lewis and Clark. The outfitters for the KATY trail were excellent and everyone was very friendly. So it was a fun week, even though we were happy to be off the saddle when the week ended.

On Two Wheels in Rural Idaho

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Usually, we post about adventures abroad. Over the last few days, Ed and I have experienced interesting domestic travel — riding the 84-mile Weiser River Trail from New Meadow, Idaho to Weiser, Idaho. Never mind that we’d never heard of either town. We learned about this adventure during a moonlight dinner at Galena Lodge last winter when we sat next to a couple who had ridden this trail. It sounded cool, so we put it on our to do list

An Ambitious Mountain Bike Ride

We rode the trail over a two-day period with an overnight stop. Jan had not traveled on her bike with her overnight necessities on board since 1977 when she rode across Europe with Barb Knopes, her dear friend and college roommate. Although Ed had ridden RAGBRAI across Iowa with Jan eight times, he had never “lugged” his gear. Jan retrofitted an old bike pack for her mountain bike and Ed purchased a small pack for his mountain bike. We had our bikes tuned up and purchased a few accessories, including cool “mountain bike” shirts (au revoir spandex jerseys) from a “Club Ride”, a local Ketchum company.

While researching the trip, we noted the geography. The abandoned rail right of way had been transformed to a gravel bike path with 1,855 feet in altitude change from north to south. (While the data seemed important it barely mattered. Over 84 miles, this means that you descend 240 feet per mile with an average grade of about 5%–later we were told is that 5% overall grade is typical for old railroad lines.)

We drove four hours from Ketchum to Weiser, ID (population 5,000) and checked into the modest State Street Motel.

The room was spacious and clean– better than it looked from the outside. Later, we had dinner at Judy’s Weiser In–yes, that is how it is spelled–and enjoyed it. We dined on steak with mushrooms and splurged for the Ravenswood Zinfandel. The price was right!

Day 1: New Meadow to Cambridge

On Thursday morning, we had breakfast at a local diner, and at 8:30 am, our pre-arranged driver, Ron, picked us up to transport us to the top of the trail at New Meadow. Ron drove us in an immaculate Suburban, and we were somewhat surprised to learn that he was a retired Boeing delivery engineering manager from Seattle. He currently lives in Council Idaho (population 900) and has invested in several local businesses around town, including an RV Park.

He dropped us off at the trailhead, and we were off! The Weiser River Trail (WRT) opened in 1998 after the Union Pacific Railroad retired the freight line and conveyed ownership of the rail-bed to a non-profit, Friends of the Weiser River Trail. It’s Idaho’s longest rail-trail.

We knew we were in for a challenge when we saw our first mileage marker, which was artistically made from railroad spikes. Yikes, we had only gone a few miles. 81 to go!

The first 20 miles were glorious. We traveled mostly downhill through a forest of Ponderosa Pine and Douglas Fir. The trail surface ranged from gravel to lush loam with pine needles. We crossed some of the 58 trestles along the trail.

Observing Damage from Flooding

We were warned in advance that two of the trestles were out of commission, as they had been washed away by recent flooding. This one had seen better days! Ron estimated that repair will cost $30K. He said that the Friends of the Trail will be seeking grants to help pay for the repair. Luckily, signs marked the trail detours.

In Council, we learned more about the history of the trail and saw pictures of the train that carried lumber on the tracks from the early 1900s.

Over the two days, we saw only three people riding on the trail. One was a local who started at the same time as we did. He whooshed by us on the only moderately technical segment of the trail–a downhill gravel switchback which Ron had warned us about. The other two riders were a couple from Spokane who liked riding the trail so much that they rode North to South and then turned around and rode South to North! We saw them as they were riding their return leg. They snapped our picture.

Adventures in a Double Wide!

Halfway down the trail, we stayed at the Mundo HotSprings, where we had reserved the “Pool House”. It turned out to be a double-wide mobile home overlooking a pool filled with water from the local hot spring.

The best part about the Pool House was that we could use the pool after all the other day guests had left. So, around 9 pm, we soaked in the pool, restoring our biking muscles and watching the stars appear. The bed was comfy and we slept soundly.

Day 2: Riding From Cambridge to Weiser

In the morning, we biked one mile to Cambridge (population 300)–a one STOP-sign town and enjoyed a delightful breakfast. This was our second breakfast for two for under $20 including tip. The scene in Cambridge–and many scenes during the trip–reminded us of small-town Iowa, where all the elderly locals come in for coffee at the local diner.

We looked a little out of place in our bike helmets, and an older resident asked, “Where are you from?” When we said, “California”, he asked, “How are you going to get back there?” We assured him that we weren’t planning on riding all the way back, given that we had only two days worth of supplies on our bikes.

After Cambridge, we stopped in Midvale. It took us a few moments to realize that Midvale stood for Midvalley. Duh! There was a charming general store where we bought food for lunch. The American Legion Hall was quaint and colorful.

No Cell Coverage and No Water

During the next stretch, we encountered a 20-mile pristine trail that followed the Weiser River. We were warned in advance that we’d be in the wilderness in the high desert canyon. Because of the long stretches of wilderness, we needed to be self sufficient. Ed had a flat tire and we nearly ran out of water in one stretch, despite bringing Camelbacks and supplemental water bottles.

We knew we were making progress when the sign post indicated that we only had 37 miles to go.

Along the trail, we encountered a variety of obstructions — bear scat, horse poop, cow patties, a fallen tree, boulders, and an animal skeleton and lots of farm gates.

The surface ranged from sand to rock to gravel to black dirt to pine needles. We had to keep an eye out for these variations. Before we started, a trail veteran told us that 42 miles of gravel riding on a mountain bike is a lot to do in a day. Given our experience riding road bike centuries, etc., we didn’t completely internalize this advice. After riding the Weiser River Trail, we have to agree–40 miles on a nearly flat gravel path on a heavy mountain bike with gear requires a lot of hard pedaling; the rough surface impedes coasting or freewheeling. Continuous pedaling is essential, especially into the wind which blew in our faces during most of our ride. We were happy to take a break on the frequent benches on the trail.

The Weiser River Trail goes through a valley that’s a haven for wildlife. We saw Snowy Egrets, Idaho Cliff Swallows, and other birds. Sometimes, the sounds of our bike tires on the gravel path would disturb a covey of quail, and they would all fly out of a bush. Even the grazing cows seemed to notice us, as they would turn their heads and look at us as we rode by. We thought they might be counting the riders. We encountered a few horses lingering along the trail. Also, we heard there may be (friendly) bears, but we didn’t see any.

At the 80th mile, we saw that the trail paralleled the road. So, we opted for the smooth surface of the road that headed towards Weiser.

We rode back to the motel where our car was parked. Our odometer registered that we had logged 86.42 miles in the saddle.

The Weiser River Trail is a great ride. We were impressed with the maintenance of the trial — especially since it’s done by volunteers. We appreciated all the efforts of the Friends of the Weiser Ri ver Trail and have now become members. The signs were excellent and everyone we encountered was friendly and hospitable. The Fall weather was glorious. We felt fortunate to be able to discover and explore this part of rural Idaho

On the way back to Ketchum, we spent two nights in McCall, ID. The scenery around Payette Lake was beautiful. And, we enjoyed being off the saddle!

If you want to ride the Weiser River Trail (or go to McCall) , let us know, and we can provide more details.

Livin’ Like a Local in Tuscany

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In late May, Ed and I spent a magical week in a small village in Eastern Tuscany. No guidebooks or Trip Advisor. No “must see” tourist attractions. Instead, we savored livin’ like a local while we visited our friends Nancy and John — expats from Berkeley who have lived in a small Tuscan town since 2010. Ed worked with Nancy at Apple and was delighted to renew their friendship.

Magical Meals

Nancy chronicles her Italian life on her blog, Itch.world. On this site, she provides a weekly “3-minute escape to Italy.” (Highly recommended!) With her vast knowledge of the local area, she was able to curate fantastic local meals for us.

We enjoyed the perfectly grilled steak and Tuscan red wine in the small village of Montrechi

And, an “al fresco” lunch at an agriturismo inn. The proprietors, a brother and sister duo, opened the restaurant just for us.

Agriturismo restaurant in Eastern Tuscany

On Nancy’s recommendation, we made a reservation for dinner at a communal table at Le Bindi in another small village. This restaurant has one seating for 21 people at 8:30 pm. All the other guests were Italians, mostly in their 30’s. Most did not speak English. The one gal who did speak English, probed, “How did you find this place?” This meal included over 20 courses over three hours and cost only 25 Euros. A bargain!

Following a Favorite Son

When Nancy arrived in this area of Tuscany, she overheard a question, “Did you find the PDF?” Since she had worked in Silicon Valley, Nancy thought the people were talking about a computer file. But, no … instead, “PDF” is an affectionate term for Piero della Francesca, a baroque artist who was born in this area in 1416. (!) Since we were now pretending to be locals, we decided to pay homage to him by visiting his art.

The road signs clearly show where his paintings are displayed.

In Monterchi, the Madonna del Parto is displayed in its own museum, which is an old school house owned by the town. (This is the only museum we’ve ever been to with only one piece of art.) The museum also plays a 12 minute video which describes the advanced geometry and symmetry used by “PDF” in 1460 when he painted this masterpiece.

In the painting, Mary is obviously pregnant, which apparently was quite controversial at the time of its origin. According to a New York Times article, the town (which claims to own the painting) will not loan it out for exhibits at other museums around the world, as they are afraid they won’t get it back.
Other PDF masterpieces, also called “the Pieros”, are housed in nearby villages: In San Sansepolcro, you can pay homage to The Resurrection.

Fresco in San Sansepolcro, Eastern Tuscany

And in Arezzo, his intricate masterpieces adorn the walls and ceiling of the church of St Francis .

Piero della Francesca’s work is awe-inspiring, and definitely worth visiting. This area is also known as “Terre di Piero”, and you can follow a trail of his art using this itinerary.

Village Life in Eastern Tuscany

Our AirBnb apartment was nestled into the old town wall. It was centrally located so we could easily walk to the Wednesday town market, where a farmer sold the freshest vegetables imaginable. We purchased local ravioli and were able to create our own Tuscan feast at the apartment.

This old castle, which houses a pizza restaurant, is where local soccer teams come to celebrate the end of the season.

We were escorted through the Busatti textile factory in the basement of a store in town. The weavers use the same techniques that they’ve used for over 100 years. The owner told us that he was dismayed when Gumps went out of business, as they had been an excellent customer! (Apparently Jerry Brown is a good customer as well.) We purchased lovely napkins and dishtowels that were woven using traditional methods.

Most of all, we loved how Italian villagers celebrate daily life in Tuscany. Lunch is a delicious ritual. The pace is slower and not as hectic as in the city. The gelato is divine. Nancy and John have embraced this lifestyle with aplomb, and we were lucky to share it with them during this magical week.

Grazie tanto!

Sicily: Renewal and Rejuvenation

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Sicily abounds with color, spirit, and cultural pride. On previous visits to Italy, we hadn’t considered visiting Sicily because its image was “too dirty, too crime-infested, too Mafia-controlled.” But over the last two weeks, Sicily has impressed us with its beauty, vigor and renaissance.

Spring Color in Sicily

Wildflowers abound among the ruins of Greek temples from 420 BC (and before). Who knew that Sicily held the largest two Greek cities outside of Athens during the heyday of the Greek empire?

These temples have been lovingly preserved. Our favorite was Segesta, because it seemed to be in the middle of nowhere. This temple was unfinished – no one knows why.

Other temples in Agrigento and Syracusa also were delightful. Tourists from all over Europe are rediscovering their majestic beauty.

The flowers continued to bloom around the island, broadcasting red, gold, and purple hues.

Treasures Emerge from the Mud

Our visit to Villa Romana del Casale (in the interior of the island) presented a tapestry of Roman mosaics from 300 AD. Apparently, this 37,000 square foot palace was built by a Roman who created his fortune importing wild animals from Africa and Asia. The palace was covered by mud from a landslide in around 1300 and was only discovered in the 1930s. Luckily for us, this was past the period of looting, and archeologists have been working ever since to preserve and protect the mosaic masterpieces. Just as Sicily is emerging from a cloud of past troubles, these mosaics have risen from the mud to show exquisite craftsmanship and quality. The bikini girls, who are depicted as athletes playing volleyball and other sports, are a crowd favorite.

As are the animals who grace the entrance area.

The Grand Hall of the Great Hunt showcases a 200-foot long hunting scene with hundreds of animals. Quite the spectacle!

Street Food Pride

In Palermo, we took a Street Food Tour and enjoyed sampling many local delicacies – including the sfincione – fluffy pizza sold on carts and grilled before serving.

Jan eating street food in Palermo, Sicily

We learned that the delicious canolo should be filled with fresh ricotta cheese and chocolate chips immediately before eating. Otherwise the shell gets soggy.

This Palermo cart vendor cooked “pani ca’ meusa” — boiled spleen, lung and other organ meat served on a roll.

This specialty used to be eaten by the poorest people who could only afford the “leftovers” from the local butcher; now, it’s highlighted on global TV food shows. It tastes much better than it sounds!

Sicilian Pride

Salvo, our handsome tour guide, expressed his Sicilian pride in these tasty treats. He said he used to be embarrassed by his old-fashioned name—Salvatore, the name of his Grandfather– but now he embraces it. After working in mainland Italy for years, he’s returned to Sicily, his birth place, to celebrate its culture and zest for life. He is one of many young people who are returning to their communities and bringing youthful vigor. He is now an expert at preparing a traditional hors d’oeuvre platter with sundried tomatoes, olives, cheese, sardines, and crusty bread. This was accompanied by fortified Marsala wine.

Vineyards Thrive in the Lava

Mt. Etna, the highest active volcano in Europe spews lava down the sides of the mountain. Its most recent eruptions occurred in the spring of 2017 and its last major eruption in the 2008/2009 winter. The silver lining is that the lava creates fertile ground for delicious wine varietals. The area around the crater is dotted with charming wineries and gourmet food meccas, and we learned that “eno-tourism” has grown steadily over the last three years.

At the lovely Planeta winery, our hostess explained how many of her friends have returned to Sicily after living abroad because they missed the good weather, good food, family ties, and overall quality of life. They learned skills in Milan, Geneva, and London (among other cities) and are applying their knowledge to emerging Sicilian businesses.

The winery tasting room was in a building from the 1600s.

This old “chute” used to carry grapes. Upstairs, they would stomp the grapes by foot and the juice would be transported to the downstairs cellar.

We toasted our lovely journey with a glass of Planeta Etna Bianco.

Inside the Volcano

Mt. Etna did not disappoint. We drove halfway up the mountain and hiked around the craters created in 2001 and 2002.

It was a bit chilly, and we were glad that we had our “puffer” jackets. Some adventure tourists were even skiing down sides of the volcano.

Luckily the clouds drifted in and out over the mountains, so we could see the volcano peak when it “peeked” out from behind the clouds.

On clear days, you can see Mt. Etna from everywhere. It said “farewell” to us when we departed from the Catania airport near Palermo.

Sicily’s Love for Tradition

Although some things are changing, some things stay constant. At the Taverna Azzurra in Palermo, this photo from 1950s graces the wall.

On a weekday in May, the same owners were still serving drinks to locals and tourists alike.

In Noto, the locals hold a traditional flower contest where petals cover the streets. This year’s theme was “Americans in Sicily”. This beautiful display included references to Superman, Batman, and Joe DiMaggio.

The cars are timeless. We especially liked the Fiats.

This patisserie along a small road in a rural village has been in operation since 1880. We loved the tasty (and inexpensive) pastries and coffee.

Aperol Spritz

In the last two weeks, there have been articles in the New York Times, the Washington Post, and the SF Chronicle discussing the merits of the Aperol Spritz – the popular orange cocktail made with Aperol and Prosecco. Aperol liqueur has been available in Italy since 1919 and was acquired by Campari in the 1980s. The Aperol Spritz is now popular all over Europe and the US. However, not all connoisseurs approve. The writer for the NY Times wrote that an Aperol Spritz “drinks like a Capri Sun after soccer practice on a hot day. Not in a good way.” We thought this comment was pretty snarky, so we decided we had to try the cocktail and make our own opinion. Sitting in an outdoor café overlooking the water in Taormina, we found the Aperol Spritz to be delightful and refreshing. (No snarkiness from us!)

So, arrivederci Sicily! We’ve enjoyed our two-week stay. We lift our glass, be it Aperol Spritz or Etna Vino Bianco, and say “Saluti” to all.

Out in the Outback

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It sounded like a good idea. Rent a camper. Experience the Outback off-road. Sleep under the stars. Channel our inner “Crocodile Dundee”.

Unfortunately, we had failed to consider two critical aspects of March travel in the Outback — heat and the bugs!

Our first warning came as we disembarked from the plane in Alice Springs — the gateway to the Outback. The ramp worker wore shorts with a bug net on her head! We looked at each other with concern. Yikes. What had we gotten ourselves into?

Setting out in our Apollo LandCruiser

We picked up our 4WD camper in Alice Springs and filled it up with diesel fuel.

We purchased provisions, including bug spray, for a week of outback adventure and drove to Glen Helen, the first outback station on the Red Center Circle. The moment we got out of the car flies bombarded us. We saw two French tourists wearing bug nets and inquired, “Where can we get these?” Luckily, bug nets are widely available, We happily purchased two.

These nets became our constant companions for the week.

After a dip in the dramatic gorge and the refreshing swimming pool with bug nets over our heads, we cooked our dinner in a screened shed along with the French tourists who also had a camper. (We called ourselves “Apollo un y Apollo Deux”.) Then we set up our “home” for the night. While reading, Jan swatted a seemingly infinite number of bugs with her book.

Hmm….. maybe this camper thing wasn’t such a good idea.

Off Road!

The next morning, after donning bug nets, we headed onwards towards King’s Canyon. The temperature was at least 100 degrees after 9 am. As the pavement turned to gravel and rock, we noticed many tires by the side of the road; now we understood why passenger cars were prohibited.

We stopped to see if we could help one of our fellow “Apollo travelers” who had this flat tire.

This pair was German, and Jan was able to ask, “Konnen wir Sie helfen?” Fortunately, they were traveling with another German couple who at the time was driving a couple of kilometers ahead. The friends quickly returned to their forlorn friends and provided assistance so our help was not needed. We later saw both couples, as they were trying to figure out where they could purchase an additional spare tire.

After seeing this incident, Ed decided to slow down and take it easy. We were in no rush, and didn’t want to join the “Flat Tire Club.” Since the camper had excellent A/C, we were happy staying inside. We listened to the delightful book on tape, In a Sunburned Country by Bill Bryson, which captures his experience on a road trip through Australia in the early 2000’s. He also made note of the bugs.

At Kings Canyon, we opted for the lodge, as we were “one and done” for sleeping in the camper. Luckily we secured the second to last available room. We enjoyed the pool and the A/C! The full moon was spectacular, and the local Aussies pointed out the wide range of stars, including the Southern Cross.

Uluru Magic

We ventured on to Uluru–the indigenous name for Ayers Rock–and opted for the lodge with pool.

Uluru did not disappoint! The massive rock inspires awe from every direction.

We enjoyed the sunset, and Ed didn’t let the bugs diminish his enjoyment of a “sundowner”.

We were impressed with the Bruce Munro “Field of Light” exhibit that twinkles after sundown. Encompassing 50,000 hand-blown lights of varying colors scattered beneath the giant rock, the lights offer a riot of color. Walking through the lights is magical.

The other major landmark of this area is Kata Tjuta. These 36 massive rocks, which appear from a distance as a monolith, are amazing and change from each angle of viewing.

On another day, we watched the sunrise over Uluru. Again, it was beautiful.

On rented bikes, we took an early morning ten km spin around the giant rock.

Up close we could enjoy the textures and irregularities of the terrain.

Around Uluru, numerous brush fires burned right up to the roads. One road closed just after we passed. As we learned from our book on tape, “bush fires are a way of life in the Outback.”

Surprise…Car Trouble!

On our way back to Alice Springs, we enjoyed lunch at the Curtin Springs Cattle Station. The steak sandwiches were delicious and made from local beef. But, after lunch, when we returned to the LandCruiser, it wouldn’t start! Ed tried pumping the gas, but it was a “no go”. A few Aussie men came out to push us to try to jump-start the camper but alas, this didn’t work.

We called the “free call” number for Apollo Assistance. When the telephone assistance agent called back from the Philippines to ask whether we were at Curtin Springs East or West, we were somewhat concerned as Curtin Springs Cattle Station was literally the only road stop within 100 miles in any direction.

Of all the places to break down in the Outback, this was about as good as could be. Not only could we wait in the store (with A/C), but there were rooms available in case we had to spend the night. The staff was the epitome of Aussie friendliness. “No worries, mate! You can stay here as long as you like!” We purchased extra-rich ice cream bars to quell our anxieties. We waited around three hours until a mechanic showed up with a tow truck. He was able to fiddle around with the pressure valve for the starter and, after a few tries, the camper started! What a relief. He suggested that we fill the tank with diesel and drive through to Alice Springs without stopping.

A Shady-Looking “Resort”

100 km from Alice Springs, it began to get dark. Driving at night in the Outback is not advisable since this is when wildlife suddenly pops onto the roadway. Since we had gotten out of bed at 5:20 am to see the sunrise, we decided to stop for the night at a remote roadside resort. Although the “resort” met our needs in providing a bed with sheets, it was one of the least-atmospheric places imaginable. Our “cabin” was like a trailer in a B-grade movie. This resort could have passed for a medium security prison.

We were surprised to look at the guest book and see that the only other guest was a conservative, recently-retired ex-US congressman from Virginia! Ed commented that this was a very appropriate place for a GOP former Judiciary Committee chairman to hide out and perhaps prepare for a future residence.

Back to Alice Springs

The next morning, as Ed crossed his fingers, the camper started. We drove the final 100 km of our 1200 km trek back to Alice Springs, explored the town a bit and turned in our beloved (not) Apollo camper companion. Before we reached the rental agency, we saw this sign showing a “kindred spirit” advertising sporting goods. We did not knowingly steal their slogan when we integrated Partners In Adventure, the name of this blog, into our wedding vows a few years later.

In Alice Springs, we visited the “School of the Air”, a distance learning public school founded in 1951. The students live in the Outback — most on “cattle stations” in the middle of nowhere. Earlier students received packets every month by mail and had their lessons over the radio, using a bicycle wheel to power the service.

Now, the lessons are online. We watched three classes in action. In this one for middle school students, the teacher was discussing “self-esteem.” As we’re currently coaching in a distance learning executive education program for the Stanford Graduate School of Business, we identified with this approach.

Also, in Alice Springs we toured the historic Telegraph Station. Founded in the 1880s, this was a relay station for all telegraph communication between Adelaide and London.

Instead of taking three months for a letter to be sent from Adelaide to London by ship, communicating through the new telegraph system was almost instantaneous.

When the station needed supplies, they were delivered by camel train, the precursor to the very, very long and heavy “road trains” which today barrel down Outback roads at high speed.

Empathy for Indigenous People

Everywhere in the Northern Territories, we saw (or heard) this sentiment, which respects the ancestral lands of the Indigenous peoples.

The history between the Australians and the Indigenous population has been fraught with problems. This Telegraph Station was even used to house Indigenous children who had been taken from their parents so they would learn to be more “white”. This practice was fortunately abolished in the late 1930’s.

Additionally, in the Northwest Territory state where the Outback is located, Aboriginal drunkenness is a huge issue which other Aussies believe has resulted from genetic differences between Aboriginals and more recent immigrants to Australia. Laws regarding the distribution of alcoholic beverages draw distinctions between Aboriginal people and others. Posted regulations state when and how much alcohol Aboriginals can purchase at any given period. This seemed strange to us as Americans.

Driving the Red Center route in March was an adventure, albeit a hot and buggy one. We met French and German tourists and saw no other Americans on this route. Uluru was incredible and worth it. However, next time, we’ll opt to fly there in the Winter or Spring!